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Discussion Starter #161 (Edited)
beautiful work as always, keep it coming :smokin:
Thanks. It might look good but has some issues. The additional bend I put in the track bar was too much and causing more issues.

Got the tires mounted. Had to drive around to 4 different tire shops to find one willing and capable. Tire pro's told me they could do 40s, but when I showed up they said 4 year old tires were 'too old'... guess they weren't interested. Shit, discount is 10 years, but no point even asking them.
:flipoff2:
The tainted tire with bead damage looks to have other issues as well. It sits and rolls tilted indicating broken belts. The other 3 don't. Probably why the seller bough new and sold these. But they will get it rolling and allow me to test fit, trim, hack and such, which was the point anyhow. Probably won't go down road for another 6-12 months anyhow, so a new set would just age also. Will never wear them out from miles. So, like most of my tires, they will spend there final days doing burnouts.


I think the wheel to sidewall ratio is a decent fit for this old Ford, unlike this:
 

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Had a long talk with myself about project next steps, involving a few beers instead of getting any real work done. I believe I have decided to leave the front half, half done and get started on the rear. I had a few options:
- throw together a makeshift fuel system, buy rest of engine parts and start motor
- finish out steering and front brakes lines, install cab
- Leave the worn out stock leaves in and half-ass the rear suspension enough to get it rolling/drivable
not that i get a vote, but I say take bed off and do all fab work.. then reinstall body.

Easy for me to say, I'm living vicariously.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
not that i get a vote, but I say take bed off and do all fab work.. then reinstall body.

Easy for me to say, I'm living vicariously.
haha, you'll have to clear those plans with Mrs. rattle snake first
:)

Ya the plan is to remove the bed and hack stuff up.

I found a set of cheap Chebby 63s I plan to get tomorrow. They are 2 leaf +OL from a 02 2wd 1500. Would prefer a 3 leaf, 1500 4wd, 2500, etc but avoiding a JY trip cause I'm a lazy and short on time. Should allow me to get it rolling, and can swap out pack or add a leaf later if needed.

So is there a rule of thumb for locating the front hanger bolt from the center pin, aka wheel well center?

The arch will move tire back as it compresses. how far to offset forward, if at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #164
Finally had a weekend day to tackle the next step on this project. Got bed ready for removal and used an engine hoist to lift. The reach was a little short and caused the bed to catch on the hoist ram. But worked well enough to get it off


Rolled the chassis outside for pressure wash. First time the truck has seen sun light for awhile. Was an easy clean up compare to the filthy front end. Even in February the sun was hot enough to get the frame dry and painted within an hour. No rust. Rusty shit sucks.
:smokin:


Turned the chassis around to make working on the back half easier, and removed the rear axle as an assembly.


I used my redneck engineering skills to conceive and build a temporary trailer chassis to be able to store bed and front clip someplace else.


Frame is construed from twoba-furs, with springs bolted on. No need for shackles or anything fancy like that. I continue to learn from the ghetto fab/hack job thread.


added a tongue extension and built a slick ball coupler out of a piece of exhaust tubing. Put the hood, fenders and so in the 'trailer' and used my certified redneck camouflage 4 wheeler to park it back at the barn.
 

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Where I live, your temporary bed dolly would be more road worthy than lots of the stuff actually on the road..:D

The whole build looks good!
 

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Discussion Starter #167
Where I live, your temporary bed dolly would be more road worthy than lots of the stuff actually on the road..:D

The whole build looks good!
Thanks. I see some pretty sketchy landscape trailers around here too.

What are the rims it’s wearing currently?
They came on the truck so don't have exact PN. Eagle Alloy brand 17x8.
 

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Discussion Starter #169 (Edited)
Chipping away at the rear frame clean up. Lots of rivets to remove, at least 30. Got the aux fuel tank supporting hardware and the spring hangers removed from the left side.

Also cut the bumper off. It was welded on including the support through the spare tire area. Going to re-use the bumper because it fits the style, but will need to re-do all the mounts and receiver hitch support.

Removing rivets is a pain. Trying a new method with plasma. Cut head off, grind flush, then gouge out the middle of rivet with plasma cutter. Let if cool a bit then hammer out. Noticeable improvement over not doing plasma step.

Why go to the effort to replace a leaf spring with a leaf spring? Well, trying to keep things simple, and I don't want to hack up the bed for coilover/shock towers. The old 54" springs are sagged out and have almost no droop. The 63s I got are 2+1 leaf design from a 2002 1500 2WD. So may need to go to a heavier pack the future depending on how these work and what I end up carrying in the bed.

The free height of the spring is around 10", and the arc length to eye-to-eye difference is only 2" If my math is right the shackle will only move 2" and the pin (axle) 1" though the travel. Hope to get 12+" of travel at the wheel. Also plan to run the 4" blocks out of the doner F-350 to get the height I think I need. Once the body is back on I can asses the ride height and adjust as needed. Ideally I would not run a block in the rear.

 

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Discussion Starter #170 (Edited)
The Chevy springs are wider than the old ones. Need to mod or make new hangers. Decided to make my own. Ruff stuff makes a custom rear hanger, but I couldn't really find a nice option for the front, so I figured I would put my new press brake to work.


Simple design out of 1/4". Also got a new welding hood. Quite an improvement over the HF turd I had. Welds are looking less shitty.


Frame to spring distance is about same as stock. Front hanger eye bolt is down about 1.5" lower than stock.


Went back and boxed the rear mount, not because I needed to, but because I had to. tapped for grease zerks.
 

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Discussion Starter #171 (Edited)
Removed rear most cross member in prep for fuel tank mounting. Replaced with a piece of 2x4 x 3/16 tube. Notched the tube ends to get a nice fit.


Will have to modify the the next one forward, so might replace with 2x4 as well. Moving the cross members away from the rear hanger doesn't help. Contemplating doing some frame boxing in this area. Once tank is installed, no access inside frame so plan to weld some captive nuts for bumper mounting.


Located and tacked the hangers on the frame, might have to move them. Set shackle to be vertical at full droop, but hard to estimate. Tacked the axle perches on at an arbitrary angle just to get thing together. Will have to adjust later.
Undecided on further hanger reinforcements. Have some ideas. Maybe not needed. Trying to minimize weight everywhere.


Was able to use the F350 blocks, plates and u bolts. Shorted the U bolts a bit but have under $100 in the rear spring swap. Shackles are a little too long, might shorten if possible. Might not need a 4" block either.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
So at this point I had to put the big tires on....


A lot of work to get to this point. Long ways to go. Next steps are brake and fuel system plumbing. Then steering, and so on...




Bent the arm just enough to clear at full turn. Guessed correctly for once.
 

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Discussion Starter #176
Dude those rear spring hangers are bitchin. Almost stock looking.
Thanks, pretty happy with how they all came out.

Very nice!!! Im excited to see this build come together.
Ya, me too. Day job gets in the way of the build. Such is life.

I'm kinda looking for some 17s for a project, are you going to keep these around or sell them?
I plan to sell them once the bed is back on, which will be awhile. Need some 17" 6 lug wheels so I can put the E rated tires on the wife's burb.
 

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Thanks, pretty happy with how they all came out.


Ya, me too. Day job gets in the way of the build. Such is life.



I plan to sell them once the bed is back on, which will be awhile. Need some 17" 6 lug wheels so I can put the E rated tires on the wife's burb.
Keep me in mind

I can also watch for wheels, what year burb?
 

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I love the look of those wheels on there man! I cant wait to see the body sitting on it for the first time.

The 6 lug 17s should be easy if your ok with some stock GM take-offs, late 2000's 1500's had them correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #179 (Edited)
Keep me in mind

I can also watch for wheels, what year burb?
Word. Burb is a 2001. need 17x7 in any style.

I love the look of those wheels on there man! I cant wait to see the body sitting on it for the first time.

The 6 lug 17s should be easy if your ok with some stock GM take-offs, late 2000's 1500's had them correct?
Ya, I can't wait to get it together and going. Long way to go though. Long way...

Stock wheels from the 2000s are easy enough to find, and cheap.
 
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