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Discussion Starter #81
I was thinking the same thing. That's all we've been doing. Working weekdays and working on our junk on the weekends. Been helping the boss's kid learn to weld as he is patching up a 78 Chevy square. Co worker is building 1 tons for his JK.
Thanks for the encouragement guys. I still have not gotten on the wiring, but I have gotten a bunch of cagework done and now have a family cage installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
More cage photos. Seat mounting and shock hoops are next on the list. I have decided to get all the welding done before I start on wiring.
 

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More cage photos. Seat mounting and shock hoops are next on the list. I have decided to get all the welding done before I start on wiring.
Remember triangles are your friend. Also tubes should be meeting at knodes. And did you sleeve the B hoop where you added to the bottom?
 

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Discussion Starter #84
10-4 on the triangles, I am going to continue to add, was just trying to reinforce what was already there. I sleeved everything that was added to at the bottom. I used 2" .120 wall DOM for all the cage material, and sleeved the connection points with 1.75 DOM as well. Thanks for the advice-this is my first cage in a rig it is much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I got to work on the front shock hoops. Used the supplied hoops from Offroad design, cut down for my application. Very tight clearance around the steering shaft, but everything fit.



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Discussion Starter #86
Not sure why it Uploaded my pics multiple times....Still figuring out the updated forum. Here are some additional photos of how it sits now. Next step is to run a center bar over the engine to tie the hoops together.
 

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I have to ask how much clearance is between the frame and the King shock body? In the picture it looks like not much and I wonder if at full articulation it will contact the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I have to ask how much clearance is between the frame and the King shock body? In the picture it looks like not much and I wonder if at full articulation it will contact the frame.
It is hard to tell from the photos, but there is about 3/4" of clearance. I'm going to add the center tube, charge the shocks, and check for clearance. If it has issues then the design will have to be modified. Alternatively the clearance issue may eliminated by switching to Hydro steering, which I have been kicking around. Just got get enough nickels saved up.
 

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I would put the fenders on and figure out where you want full bump. I would hate to have the wheel stuffed up into the fender and have it rubbing/hitting the steering shaft. And I would look at doing a two piece steering shaft before I well full hydro. Here is a pic of my K30 where I ran into a similar problem with the steering shaft and 3.0 King coilovers.

3107268
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I would put the fenders on and figure out where you want full bump. I would hate to have the wheel stuffed up into the fender and have it rubbing/hitting the steering shaft. And I would look at doing a two piece steering shaft before I well full hydro. Here is a pic of my K30 where I ran into a similar problem with the steering shaft and 3.0 King coilovers.

View attachment 3107268

Thanks for the picture- I have not seen a setup like that before for the steering shaft. Who makes it/ Where did you source it from? Thanks again.
 

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You have to build it yourself. You can buy the pieces from Flaming River or Speedway to name a couple. Since the steering is 3/4" round or D stock the center brace is a 3/4" heim. I did the same thing on my CJbuggy thing.
 

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Thanks for the info. Is there any drawbacks? Do you loose any steering leverage or anything?

Thanks-
Not at all. That is how they run it on Trophy Trucks with big coilovers and bypasses. And it a massive improvement over the rag joint.
 
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