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Easiest way I've ever seen to get the king pin out was to take a 8" to 10" piece of flat steel about 3" wide and cut a hole in it that'll sit halfway down the king pin. Weld the strap to the kingpin and smack it with a BFH. should come out fairly easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Pounds right out from the top. If you it dead center, you'll just knock a hole in the metal dust cap. A bearing/seal installer or a large socket works perfect. The bottom is easy. The kingpin sucks!
Easiest way I've ever seen to get the king pin out was to take a 8" to 10" piece of flat steel about 3" wide and cut a hole in it that'll sit halfway down the king pin. Weld the strap to the kingpin and smack it with a BFH. should come out fairly easily.
Thanks, I think I'll take the kingpin out first so I can smack that race out from the top with a BFH.

I waiting for my father to install the 230V outlet in the garage so I hope it gets done soon so I can get at those kingpins.

If not I think I'll have to use the old heat and cheater bar method.
 

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Good luck on the build and thanks for your service. This (past) storm was nothing...wait until you get a snow storm of the heavy wet shit.......this powder moves nice and easy :)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
It's done.

My little bro heated up the kingpins to 600 degrees and I cranked on them with a 4ft cheater bar and they "popped" right off.

My dad strapped it to a cart with ratchet straps so the axle couldn't move. It worked perfectly.

Then we just stuck a steel rod through the hole and banged the races out. Easy peasy.

So I damaged one of the bottom kingpins removing it. Do you guys think I can re-use it?

I also went snow wheeling. Who needs 4wd? 2wd is AWESOME!!!

Anyway the next step is to price out everything and order all my parts for the full rebuild for the front and the brakes for the rear.

I haven't cracked open the diff in the front yet but when I pulled the shafts they were super clean so I think I'll crack it open tomorrow and see what it looks like.

That's all the updates for now
 

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Just buy a whole new kit. Don't reuse any of the bearings/seals/kingpins/springs. A whole new kits isn't very expensive and will keep the wheels pointed in the correct directions.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Just buy a whole new kit. Don't reuse any of the bearings/seals/kingpins/springs. A whole new kits isn't very expensive and will keep the wheels pointed in the correct directions.
Ya you're right. I would really regret it if something failed because I cut corners. Better to do it right the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
I took measurements last evening for a behind the seat fuel cell.

This is just a rough sketch of what it's going to be. I am going to make a cardboard template and see how I like it.

As is sits right now it will hold 20.43 gallons of I did my math right. I honestly think I could get another five gallons out of it but we will see.

It's going to be made out of 1/8 Aluminum.

My little brother goes to a vocational school and he works in the metal fab department. He is going to build this as his senior project.

I think I'm doing quite well cutting costs lol.
 

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I took measurements last evening for a behind the seat fuel cell.

This is just a rough sketch of what it's going to be. I am going to make a cardboard template and see how I like it.

As is sits right now it will hold 20.43 gallons of I did my math right. I honestly think I could get another five gallons out of it but we will see.

It's going to be made out of 1/8 Aluminum.

My little brother goes to a vocational school and he works in the metal fab department. He is going to build this as his senior project.

I think I'm doing quite well cutting costs lol.
I'm doing an axle swap as well and am trying to move my fuel cell, could youplease post a higher quality image or the demensions for your please, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I took measurements last evening for a behind the seat fuel cell.

This is just a rough sketch of what it's going to be. I am going to make a cardboard template and see how I like it.

As is sits right now it will hold 20.43 gallons of I did my math right. I honestly think I could get another five gallons out of it but we will see.

It's going to be made out of 1/8 Aluminum.

My little brother goes to a vocational school and he works in the metal fab department. He is going to build this as his senior project.

I think I'm doing quite well cutting costs lol.
I'm doing an axle swap as well and am trying to move my fuel cell, could youplease post a higher quality image or the demensions for your please, thanks
I apologise for the picture coming out bad I don't know what happened.

The bottom rectangle is 34"x10"

Top rectangle is 34"x6.5"

Back rectangle or the one against the tailgate is 34"x16"

The front rectangle will be 34"x16 3/8"

Both sides of the tank which I guess you could call polygons will have the following dimensions.
Front edge: 16 3/8
Top edge: 6.5"
Back edge :16"
Bottom edge: 10"

Not in the first picture that I will need to relocate my rear seat harness to accommodate the gas tank.

You can see how I measured to get a rough estimate of how I would need to make it.

I had to make adjustments to the top since I originally had it to wide front to back. So it will probably hold around 18 gallons unless I decided to make a sump that goes into the floor which is still a very real possibility at this point.

And this will all be bent out of one piece of 1/8 aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So today I dropped my Dana 60 parts at my uncle's shop to be cleaned and glass beaded and I also sold half of my Jeep.

I sold the frame, axles, tires, rims, engine, trans, t case, drive shafts, gas tank, and radiator.

I think I gave the guy a killer deal on it all but maybe I'll get lucky in the future when I need some parts.
 

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It's a huge relief in a build when you're able to actually sell your stock parts to keep going. I had a ton of stock Willys parts left and one guy came and bought them all. Sweet!
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Cool project! Keep it coming! Removing the kingpins is a bear!!!
I had to take the knuckle up to my uncles shop and using a torch to get the bastard out.

Update:

All of the hardware on the outer end of the 60 had been glass beaded and i have brand new everything to put the entire front end back together after it all gets painted.

I just ordered e-brake disc brakes from lugnut4x4 for the 14 bolt so shout out to him for getting my order shipped in about 30 minutes after placing it. I emailed him back and forth and he answered all my questions and was really helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
So i made a change to the fuel cell.

I was really debating putting the fuel cell between the frame rails but i was worried of the logistics of making everything fit

So i kept with my original design but i added a 5" deep sump thats 29" long and 10" wide (front to back). It will sit right between the frame rails and with 1" of body lift and the frame rails being 4" high it should sit just above the bottom of the rails.

With that added sump i have calculated the tank will hold a volume of 25.12 gallons which i am very happy about.

Also with the sump i think it will help the pick up with issues offroad.

I have settled that i will make the entire frame 34" wide (30" between the rails) and 144" long.

2x6 .188 for the lower rails and 2x4 .188 for the uppers.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Here is the tank being made.

I must admit i messed up when i gave my little brother the measurements.

I have never fabricated anything from metal before and i didnt take into account the extra material for each bend since he made the main body out of one piece.

I figure now that one bend used around 5/32" of aluminum.

The result in the 5th picture is the 5/16" gap.

Whoops:shaking:
 

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