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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey all, been thinking of how to get some flex into this POS front end, first thought of making tubular radius arms, but seems like there is alot of chance to screw up and make the truck drive like a shopping cart...so my other idea is to just replace the radius arm brackets and add heim joints to the ends of the arms...has anyone here tried this? if you have please post some comments/advice/pics. oh, and if you have some high dollar solution, please keep it to yourself.
Thanks
Later
Dan
 

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i extended mine with some tube then put 2.5" johnny joints on the end and make brackets for the frame when i swapped my fs 44 in my ranger
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
anybody got any pics of any of this?? by wristing, im assuming you mean to put a flexible joint into the existing arm?? alittle more info wouldnt hurt. thanks alot for the responses guys!
Later
Dan
 

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You would learn a lot and not have to ask these questions if you would just read some of the threads here and look at the various rigs. My '79 flexes ok, read pg. 12 of my build-up thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the advice man, i'd really like to pick your brain alittle, but i do have a question for you. with the way your truck is set up could you get more tire under it and still achieve full stuff?? im not building a rock crawler, just trying to improve on the oem front suspension alittle. i need to still be able to do full up and full down with my 38s, this is a mud truck and big tires are still king. thanks for the reply, you were really one of the people i was hoping to talk to, and sorry for making so many posts, if it bugs somebody they can take em off i guess, was just askin afew questions.
Later
Dan
 

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I don't really care for RISTED arms, my research has indicated that if you build your shit properly, you won't need RISTED arms

Look at White Rhino's rig. Stock extended arms, johnnys and air shocks. Flexes like crazy.
 

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I don't really care for RISTED arms, my research has indicated that if you build your shit properly, you won't need RISTED arms

Look at White Rhino's rig. Stock extended arms, johnnys and air shocks. Flexes like crazy.


so you have used both and speak fact ? :shaking:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well guys, the deal is i have to retain coils, and retain stock shock mounting locations for the competition use this truck will se from time to time. im looking to get the most travel i can and stay within the rules, i dont cheat, i dont fudge. guess i should have added this in the beginning and saved you all some trouble. I want something that will look as stock as possible and work as well as it can while doing so.
HTH
Later
Dan
 

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so you have used both and speak fact ? :shaking:
Do you think I would talk out of my ass? Do a search, nobody on here recommends them and THEY HAVE TRIED THEM. They all complain that the front bushings wear out when they are unpinned and the front end does some crazy ass shit when you brake when it is unpinned. Don't break my balls because I've read others information who have used them.
 

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Thanks for the advice man, i'd really like to pick your brain alittle, but i do have a question for you. with the way your truck is set up could you get more tire under it and still achieve full stuff?? im not building a rock crawler, just trying to improve on the oem front suspension alittle. i need to still be able to do full up and full down with my 38s, this is a mud truck and big tires are still king. thanks for the reply, you were really one of the people i was hoping to talk to, and sorry for making so many posts, if it bugs somebody they can take em off i guess, was just askin afew questions.
Later
Dan
I could run 38x12.50's and still stuff them, any wider or taller would require more cutting. Currently I'm not running any inner fenderwell liners, and I cut about 2" all the way around the wheel well opening.
 

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My .02. Take it or leave it.

Based on maintaining coils, stock radius arm mounting locations (assuming you mean only the distance from the axle), & stock shock mount locations.

I don't know what you consider 'too' expensive, so these may be the high-end options for ya?

Go with Nth Degrees Mobility Joints at the rear of both radius arms. Great free movement without harshness.

Deaver Superflex coils.

If you can afford it, wrist the axle housing (SEARCH or check out bcbroncos.com).

I would avoid wristing an arm, especially for heavy mud & any DD road use.

Best of luck, and post pics!
 

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I extended mine 14 or 15 inches (they are 4 feet from front axle centerline to Heim joint bolt centerline), and put 1 inch heims on em.

they aint pretty, but they are ugly. flexes great with them, because the mounting point is much farther back on the frame, so there is less angularity.

 

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I extended mine 14 or 15 inches (they are 4 feet from front axle centerline to Heim joint bolt centerline), and put 1 inch heims on em.

they aint pretty, but they are ugly. flexes great with them, because the mounting point is much farther back on the frame, so there is less angularity.

looks about how i did it on my ranger. except i didnt move my front axle that far forward.
 

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I extended mine 14 or 15 inches (they are 4 feet from front axle centerline to Heim joint bolt centerline), and put 1 inch heims on em.

they aint pretty, but they are ugly. flexes great with them, because the mounting point is much farther back on the frame, so there is less angularity.

what springs you runnin?
 

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6 inch superlift coils

I want to find some progressive rates to put on it to let the front end come up fast.
 

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Do you think I would talk out of my ass? Do a search, nobody on here recommends them and THEY HAVE TRIED THEM. They all complain that the front bushings wear out when they are unpinned and the front end does some crazy ass shit when you brake when it is unpinned. Don't break my balls because I've read others information who have used them.

so you have NOT tried ether :flipoff2: they both work fine for what the intended use is , the WRISTED thats risted with a W provides great flex and handling on road when pinned its like a stock arm. yea you wear out bushings with a wristed arm when unpinned big deal the lenghtend ones do to its called use .

the lenghted arms provide great flex but on road you get alot of body roll offroad they slide over shit much easier as you can tuck them up higher .

i have two rigs one wristed one lenghtend they both do there jobs and its a personal choice of what you want so read all you want untill you actualy use one or the other, you will never know :laughing:
 

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Even heims wear out. cost to replace heims vs bushings is what powered me to use the c bushings instead of building a 4 link with heims
 

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nobody on here recommends them

That's a complete line of bullshit. The fact that they have trade-offs just mean that they work well for some applications, and not so well for others. The fact that you have not tried them, but feel so strongly about something you have no personal experience with, does not mean one fucking thing except that you can parrot what you hear. So can a parrot, and they have an IQ of about 1

SYRacing "I'm gonna leave the rear alone for now, the broncos have pretty long leafs from the factory, and I could prolong using them with a set of revolvers or something..."

Maybe in all your hard earned knowledge, you would have found out that almost nobody on here recommends revolvers.


Doug
 
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