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Discussion Starter #1
I am putting an 8.1L Vortec into my 84 chevy. I plan on running a TH400 behind it. I am wondering what all is involved with this swap. I have read X-Rated's buildup thread (took a long damn time:laughing:) and from that I learned that I need to send the factory wiring harness to Howell to get all the unneccesary wires cut out, and send the puter to Westers to get reprogrammed. I havent had much luck googling or searching here.

What I am not sure about it the throttle body situation. X-Rated kept the electronic control stock unit but I have heard about people using 80mm cable actuated units from LS1 motors. The main problems I am aware of with using a cable TB is the throttle control module/ECM relationship, the thottle position sensor and idle air control. How could these be dealt with? I would prefer to use a cable TB but if its too much of a hastle, I'll just get a stock electronic petal assembly, it wouldnt be much more expensive than a new cable TB.

My knowledge of fuel injection is a basic understanding of TBI :laughing: so if I am missing some major elements of this swap, please edjumicate me. Thanks

PS. Here's pics of the motor (its FUCKING HUGE, I have to put a jack stand under the front of it so it wouldnt break my engine stand!) and the truck its goin in (PIGPEN!). Did someone say sleeper:smokin:?

 

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I am putting an 8.1L Vortec into my 84 chevy. I plan on running a TH400 behind it. I am wondering what all is involved with this swap. I have read X-Rated's buildup thread (took a long damn time:laughing:) and from that I learned that I need to send the factory wiring harness to Howell to get all the unneccesary wires cut out, and send the puter to Westers to get reprogrammed. I havent had much luck googling or searching here.
for wiring harness and ecm work, give Jims Performance a shout.
http://www.jimsperformance.com/


What I am not sure about it the throttle body situation. X-Rated kept the electronic control stock unit but I have heard about people using 80mm cable actuated units from LS1 motors. The main problems I am aware of with using a cable TB is the throttle control module/ECM relationship, the thottle position sensor and idle air control. How could these be dealt with? I would prefer to use a cable TB but if its too much of a hastle, I'll just get a stock electronic petal assembly, it wouldnt be much more expensive than a new cable TB.
I.M.O., stick with the electronic throttle.

Also,
Check out www.ls1tech.com. They have a lot of good tech. :smokin:
 

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Send your Harness to Jims like stated above.He will get rid of all the wires you don't need and program the computer. Very good pricing also.
I had an 8.1 installed in my jeep this summer by Wide Open Design.
Its an awesome motor. I kept the drive by wire and it works fine, I was skeptical at first.
Here are a few pics.

 

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Howell has the mechanical throttle body. My 6.0L originally had the electronic one and I switched over to mechanical. It is 3 bolts and your back in business.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Madram, where'd you get that elbow that goes between the TB and intake? Also, what air filter system is that? I need to figure out how to incorporate a MAS.
 

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Do you guys that have used Jim know if he actually removes the wires from the harness or if he just cuts the connectors off?
 

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Madram, where'd you get that elbow that goes between the TB and intake? Also, what air filter system is that? I need to figure out how to incorporate a MAS.
Adam Woodlee made the Elbow and the Air Filter system. If you want his number send me a PM.


Jim removes the Wires. Its crazy, I sent him a huge box with all the wires and he sent it back in a very small box. It was worth every dime, everything was labeled and all you had to do was plug and play.
 

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You will need to replace your engine cross member or at least heavily modify it. You wont be able to get the motor in the way it is stock. The stock exhaust manifolds will work but I did a little grinding on the frame to give them a little more clearance. Only talking like 1/2" of grinding where the flange is. It's tight! But it will work. I would suggest new motor mounts if yours are not in good shape. There are some pics in my buildup thread but I have more if you need something in particular. It was also easier for me to unbolt the motor mounts from the frame and get the motor in place, then put the motor mounts back in. But i was putting the motor and tranny in as one unit. You wont be able to run the ac pump in its stock location. Watch your oil pan to front axle clearance as well. I look forward to seeing pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My truck was originally a 2wd and has custom engine and tranny crossmembers. I currently have poly spring bushing motor mounts but will be swapping them out for rubber while I have the engine out. My motor did not come with any motor mounts so I will be making the parts that bolt to the block from scratch, so they will mate up to my current crossmember pictured here.

If it doesnt fit, I'll hack it up and whip up something else.

I'm not running A/C so thats not an issue.

I have 56" springs in the front so the front axle is pushed forward ~4", hopefully that'll keep the pan off of it.
 

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as stated, ls1tech. free search, friendly guys, and tons of used stuff in teh classifieds. if you don't have the pedal that's a little pricey, you might find a used TB for cheap in their classifieds
jims is good stuff. Just had a customer send some stuff to him, came back great. he even provided tech support on a sunday afternoon:eek::smokin:
 

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i would not send a harness to howell again. he did not do a real nice job. If people are happy with Jim, then go with him
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What's everyone doing for fuel pumps? How much pressure does this bitch need? Will that e3000 or something ford pump work? What about radiators? I noticed the hose necks are in prety odd locations, does someone make a ~$300 aluminum radiator that is better suited to this application than a "normal" chevy one of this vintage? I can/will run external engine oil and tranny coolers. For those not familiar with chevies, the factory big block radiator is offset to the passenger side past the opening in the core support and outside the frame about 8". Since my core support is hacked up and narrowed I was wondering if I would be able to get away with a narrower radiator, the width of a small block one but maybe thicker. I am running dual ford windstar fans and they only cover a small block sized area on the radiator anyway, so I think a normal smallblock dual 1 1/4" core aluminum one would work. I'll probably kludge an air cleaner assembly together from ebay parts and incorporate a MAF sensor in there somewhere.
 

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pump is like a walbro 392 I think? the person doing your harness can tell you. also, get the inline fuel filter (totally stock filter) out of a 99 vette. its a regulator and filter with return line, over the counter at any parts store for $50
 

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pump is like a walbro 392 I think? the person doing your harness can tell you. also, get the inline fuel filter (totally stock filter) out of a 99 vette. its a regulator and filter with return line, over the counter at any parts store for $50
The motor already handles the fuel regulaion so I wouldn't waste your money. Just run the fuel line to the motor and run the return back to tank. I am putting a 8.1 in my buggy now and decided to go the in-tank route with a walbro unit. Cleaner setup than an external pump, less noisy, etc. Also with the in tank pump, the fuel filter is mounted to the pump. 1 less thing to think about mouting or looking at :D.
 

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Madram, why the necessity of mounting the throttle away from the intake? Could you not find an elbow that would mount to the throttle?
 

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I turned the intake arround backwards so I could run the filter in the cab. As far as fuel pressure, 60 psi, and I used a high flow pump from fuel safe. For the radiator, Iwent high $$ and bought a double pass from ron davis will spal fans. Seems to be working well
 

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what year is your 8.1 OMalley? on the 5.3's and 6.0's, the later years didn't have a FPR on the rail, it was done beforehand. I was assuming that the big block followed suit. I might be mistaken.
 

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Jim's Performance is the shit. Send him a big box of wires and get back a really nice harness with everything labeled. He worked with me for 3 hours on the phone when doing a vortec swap in my buddies CJ. The problem turned out to be my fault, he didn't care, he just wanted to make sure that his product wasn't the problem. He is an awesome guy.
 
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