Doesn't look possible to squeeze it in, anyone done it - any info on this swap? I'll be running a D60 rear/44 front
I agree with Ben. In Rock Scout (65 Scout 80) we used a Stock Scout II MC with no booster. After wheeling with Ben and having to two foot the brake to get it to stop, I would say stay with the stock MC. If you really wanted to boost it you could try and inline booster between the MC and the block that bias front to rear.Ben W said:I don't think you need it unless you have a wimpy leg. I'm using a stock single reservoir master cylinder with chevy disc brakes front and rear and it works great.
Ben W said:IMO for manual brakes, single res master cylinders have better feel than tandem circuit. If you want redundancy so you don't lose all brakes if you blow a line, look at one of the racing setups where they use two independant single circuit MCs. Like this
Check out this thread for a good read on choosing an MC http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265164&highlight=tandem
I've got a early 70s Mustang MC, which had 4 wheel disc brakes.BLK Scout 800 said:80's Mustang I was told works. I used SII but I made the inner fender fit around it... :smokin:
The dodge 90 degree booster is a no go as the steering column is in the way. Look at Buckshot33's pic. The column passes through the hole to the right of the booster.Overkiller said:Go to the boneyard and check out some vans, specfiaclly dodge vans. They are mounted 90 degrees to the firewall and would solve the Scout mounting issues. For bonus points find out what chevy did for their diesel vans, Might be a 90 degree hydroboost setup. That said don't bother with a booster, you don't need one with the long Scout pedal and a well thought out system. It's nice to not have to worry about brakes should you stall or need to get dragged off a trail non-running.
Buckshot33-do you have a part# on the booster/master?I like that setup! Thanks...Buckshot33 said:
Thats an aftermarket unit like a TCI (Total Cost Involved) but its by mike somebody. Its close to the fenderwell but its got about a 1/4" of clearence and the hood fits fine. I used a stock brake pedal assembly and used a flat 1/4" steel plate to connect the two. It works Great
EDIT: Also, the wedge backing plate was moved up one bolt hole and re drilled. and some extra fab work was needed on the brake assembly to get it all to fit but its in there.