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Discussion Starter #201
I was doing the rear tube work and the rear shock mounting around the same time.

Here are some shots of the the rear shock mounts, rear bumpstop mounts, and the rear spring perches welded in.

Ill be going with a double cardan rear driveshaft because the angle at ride height is around 13 degrees, so at full droop I felt that the double would be necessary.

I pulled out the smallest leaf at the bottom of the pack. It wasnt even the full length of the spring perch and I figured they would only aid in axle wrap considering how little contact was being made between the leafs and the perch.









 

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Discussion Starter #202
I have plans to make a small bed in the back, got the steel, wood and everything but Im going to focus my efforts on the things that are going to make it go.

Next up is the fuel tank, mounting and plumbing.

The fuel tank obviously couldnt interfere with the driveshaft and I wanted the filler neck to be somewhat consolidated and pushed closer to the cab to make more room for spare fuel, water, batteries etc.

Fuel tank straps are made from 1/8" x 2" flat bar. Made some keyholes for the 'not so accessible' side and a stainless 5/16" stainless 't-bolt' for the other. A 2.5" thin rubber strip will go in between the straps and tank (Its actually rubber garage door seal, for the bottom).

I had to cut, rotate and weld the filler neck to be positioned correctly. Welded with silicon bronze.

And of course, a stainless filler neck mount for extra bling.







 

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looks nice as always :smokin:
 

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Amazing tig work Ryan!
Trucks coming along great!
If you ever need an extra set of hands give me a call.
Bryce
 

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Discussion Starter #207
looks nice as always :smokin:
Thanks!

Amazing tig work Ryan!
Trucks coming along great!
If you ever need an extra set of hands give me a call.
Bryce
Thanks, Miles just brought that welder over! gonna be much easier to make stuff now

Fab work is nice! What spring pack is that?
Thank you. The spring packs are the All Pro 05+ 3" lift

you're making solid progress on this thing, nice work. let me know if you want to plan a trip once it's trail ready
Will do! Hopefully itll be running before the end of the year.
 

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Discussion Starter #210
Exhaust stuff:

Downpipes are 2.25" and they Y into a 2.5" then there is an 8" flex pipe then a 3 bolt flange.

After the flange there will be a california legal catalytic converter, 2.5" in/out then the plan is to go to 3" after the cat and a magnaflow 14" muffler somewhere above the axle then dump. Im doing what I hope will be acceptable to pass a referee.

The driver side down pipe needed to be routed around a lot of things, the upper link, clutch slave, oil pan, etc.

I made up some heat shields for the clutch slave and the gas tank. Ill probably make another under the passenger floor and the Y. The downpipes are going to get wrapped all the way to the flex pipe.





 

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Unless you know a ref and can bribe him, you won't be able to pass smog with that exhaust. You have to have unmodified OE exhaust from the exhaust manifold to the catalyst. After that it's fair game.
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Unless you know a ref and can bribe him, you won't be able to pass smog with that exhaust. You have to have unmodified OE exhaust from the exhaust manifold to the catalyst. After that it's fair game.
I talked to a ref just the other day and he was telling me as long as its the same size pipe and its routed the same way (i.e. comes to y on the same side etc.) it would be ok. I also asked him about the distance to the cat from the manifolds, and I was told that OBD 1 isnt that big of a deal and just has to be kind of in the same stock location.

I hope what he told me is true. Ive talked with him before about this build and hes helped me with a few things.

But theres no way the stock downpipes to the cat are going to fit.

Theres also another big potential problem... a manual behind this motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #213 (Edited)
Upper radiator mount done. Radiator is fully mounted. The shiny part is stainless, the black part is some 2" rectangular tube I cut then dimpled.

School starts today so the build is going to slow down but ill still be chipping away at it. I have a long list of smaller things I can take care of here and there when I get the chance.

The next major obstacle will be the dash and wiring. Ive decided to make a new dash, the stock dash is trashed and would take too much effort to reconfigure how I need it. I wont be using any of the vents or any stock gauges, switches etc. The plan, for now, is to make a simple, flat, 2-bend, aluminum dash, with gauges in the center.

 

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Unless you know a ref and can bribe him, you won't be able to pass smog with that exhaust. You have to have unmodified OE exhaust from the exhaust manifold to the catalyst. After that it's fair game.
Obd 1 is not as strictly enforced. My exhaust manifolds are off of a different vehicle and are modified. My o2 sensor was installed on the wrong side of the y. It all passed. 95 4.3 vortec from an Astro van.

I talked to a ref just the other day and he was telling me as long as its the same size pipe and its routed the same way (i.e. comes to y on the same side etc.) it would be ok. I also asked him about the distance to the cat from the manifolds, and I was told that OBD 1 isnt that big of a deal and just has to be kind of in the same stock location.

I hope what he told me is true. Ive talked with him before about this build and hes helped me with a few things.

But theres no way the stock downpipes to the cat are going to fit.

Theres also another big potential problem... a manual behind this motor.
You should be good, but don’t get crushed if you don’t pass on the first time. It took me 4 times and a few years. Even worse, the new catalytic converter I had installed after the first go round needed to be replaced for the final trip. The carb number was no longer valid. It passed smog every time...
 

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Discussion Starter #215
Ive been chippin away at things here and there on the truck. Ill get some more pics up later of the current progress with more technical info of what I used etc.

-Exhaust is almost completely done, I just have to make the final turn down/out after the muffler and hang it in one more spot.

-Rear brake calipers turned out to be a 7/16" banjo bolt, so I had to re-do the rear lines to have the appropriate sized banjos on them. After that brake plumbing will be complete.

-Fuel plumbing is done.

-Shoulder harness bar attached and bolted through the cab, just needs to be welded to the exterior tube then cleaned up a bit.

Lots of things to finish up but my next big focus will be the dash and wiring.









Dash plans:

I got a big piece of stainless sheetmetal at a swap meet for $5 so Ill most likely be using that for the dash and possibly use it as a mold to make a carbon fiber dash...

This rounded brake/roll/bend I have planned seems like it wont be easy to do without going to great lengths to get it done.



Front cover plate that will go underneath the frame in the front, under the winch and radiator:

Made it out of some .095" Aluminum, used it as a mold for some chopped carbon fiber. Ill cut it out, sand it and clear coat it. Should come out looking pretty cool. The dimples face down for drainage reasons.

 

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Discussion Starter #216
Exhaust stuff:

Downtubes to the "Y" are 2.25" aluminized steel. After the "Y" it goes into 2.5" aluminized steel then an 8" flex pipe, then a 3-bolt flange. After the flange there is a 2.5" in/out cal legal cat. Immediately after the cat it goes into 3" aluminized 400 series stainless steel, then to a 14" magnaflow muffler. The steel tubing was painted with rustoleum high heat spray paint.

I still need to make the turnout right after the muffler and hang/mount it there as well.

Parts and pieces:

Muffler: MagnaFlow 14419 Exhaust Muffler
Catalytic converter: Walker 80906 CalCat Pre-OBDII Universal Catalytic Converter
V-bands: EVIL ENERGY 3 Inch Stainless Steel Exhaust V Band Clamp Male Female Flange
Flex-pipe: RP Remarkable Power, RK7546-2.5" x 8" Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Exhaust Flex Pipe 12" OL
Wrap: Design Engineering 010123 2" x 25' Pipe Wrap Kit with 4 Locking Ties - Titanium
Locking ties: SunplusTrade 100pcs 11.8 Inches Stainless Steel Exhaust Wrap Multi-Purpose Locking Cable Metal Zip Ties
o2 Sensor bung: Vibrant 11105 Oxygen Sensor Weld Bung
Rubber mounts: Energy Suspension 9.8101G SHOCK TOWER GROMMETS

Pics:















 

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Discussion Starter #218
damn dude, nice work on that exhaust. when's the maiden voyage?
I was really shooting to have it at least moving by this time. Now I'm not entirely sure, school continues to beat me down consistently. So much busy work, it never stops. Shit gets real old, real quick.

The next biggest obstacle is the dash and wiring, I have the materials, just need the time.

The next biggest money pit items are driveshafts and ring and pinions. I have a set of ARB's for the front and rear and a compressor but need new ring and pinions installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #220
How important is a sway bar (sway bars) with this application? Should I think about incorporating one on the front? rear? How much would it matter?
 
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