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The wood grain is a nice touch. People laughed at me when i used some left over bead board from my kitchen to make door panels out of. Boy were they wrong. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #243
The bed looks great.
That wood bed is fuckin PIMP. :smokin::grinpimp:
The wood grain is a nice touch. People laughed at me when i used some left over bead board from my kitchen to make door panels out of. Boy were they wrong. lol
Thank you everyone.

I've just been using everything that I either have or have access to for very little cost. Most of this stuff I would never go out and buy. All the carbon, stainless, wood, and lots of other random things were pretty much free or incredibly cheap. You can come up with some interesting things on a very limited budget, but it also just takes forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #244
Got the dash going as well. Added the radio, CB radio, some 4" Alpine speakers, and a switch panel I laid up in carbon fiber and had cut on the water jet.

The dash is made from 20 gauge 304 stainless. I got a sheet of it at a swap meet for $5, bent it at school on a big sheet metal brake. Reinforced the center with some angle iron that also holds the radios in. Ill be adding some gauges and other stuff here and there, but this is what I've got so far.







 

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Upper radiator mount done. Radiator is fully mounted. The shiny part is stainless, the black part is some 2" rectangular tube I cut then dimpled.

School starts today so the build is going to slow down but ill still be chipping away at it. I have a long list of smaller things I can take care of here and there when I get the chance.

The next major obstacle will be the dash and wiring. Ive decided to make a new dash, the stock dash is trashed and would take too much effort to reconfigure how I need it. I wont be using any of the vents or any stock gauges, switches etc. The plan, for now, is to make a simple, flat, 2-bend, aluminum dash, with gauges in the center.

This build is pretty killer, but I really don't think this is going to hold. The core support is pretty weak in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #246
This build is pretty killer, but I really don't think this is going to hold. The core support is pretty weak in that area.
I agree. It is very weak and I should probably just replace that piece with some suitable steel tube, it wouldn't be that difficult. However, the bottom of the radiator is very well secured to the frame rails and the small section of the core support is secured with screws into those tubes that go under it (you can see one of the screws in that picture).
 

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I agree. It is very weak and I should probably just replace that piece with some suitable steel tube, it wouldn't be that difficult. However, the bottom of the radiator is very well secured to the frame rails and the small section of the core support is secured with screws into those tubes that go under it (you can see one of the screws in that picture).
Having the bottom extra secure doesn't make up for the top being weak. The mount is great, but it's mounted to junk. I'm sure you can figure out something better judging by the rest 9f the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #248
Having the bottom extra secure doesn't make up for the top being weak. The mount is great, but it's mounted to junk. I'm sure you can figure out something better judging by the rest 9f the truck.
I guess I'm missing what exactly the main concern is with what I got setup now. Excessive movement? Some kind of force I'm not thinking about? Vibration?
 

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Discussion Starter #249
Next up was the VSS in the NP205 tailshaft housing. I'm not sure how much it matters or not with this engine and computer. I've heard people say it does matter, some that say it doesn't. One thing I've heard is something about it not running right when coming off the throttle at low speeds. Maybe someone with some actual knowledge of the VSS and how it affects the engine operation, would be great! But now I can run an electronic programmable speedometer.

I got a 40 tooth reluctor ring for an NP241, which is supposed to have the some spline count and size as the NP205 output shaft and you're supposed to just have to face it, or trim it down to the correct height. Well, my 205 output shaft isn't splined, its smooth and the reluctor ring ID was too big for the shaft so I had to improvise. I used the worlds smallest boring bar (because that's all I have) to turn the ID of the reluctor ring a few thousandths shy of 1.750". Then took a piece of 1.750" x .120 wall DOM and pressed it into the reluctor ring and trimmed it to the exact height of the spacer and speedometer wheel that was on the output shaft previously. Now the reluctor ring has an ID very close to 1.500" and fits onto the output shaft nicely. It has a couple thou of play but gets seated tightly against the main output bearing once the yoke/flange gets tightened down, the same way the old speedo wheel did before.

Then it was on to adapting the 205 tailshaft housing to house the VSS which needs to be about .040" away from the ring. Milled a flat spot on the housing perpendicular to the mounting faces and centered over the shaft. Cut a 1 1/8" hole centered over the shaft. Bought a heim bung from Synergy Manufacturing (they're local so I could just go and pick it up). The bung had the 3/4 - 16 thread in it needed for the VSS. Turned it to fit the hole, trimmed the overall height down, put a shoulder on it, and cut a little spot for the o-ring on the sensor so it seats and seals properly. When the VSS is fully screwed in and seated, the sensor is about .040" away from the ring. Preheated the housing some before I welded it in. Welded it in with some silicon bronze and it did not weld nicely. I pretty much just boogered in a bunch of silicon bronze, but I think it'll be just fine. I also welded in the threaded plug for the old speedo gear and put in a pipe plug. Thats about it. Everything bolted in nicely, the main output bearing slid over the shaft and into the housing nicely ass well, just like it did before.



















 

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Discussion Starter #250
Went to bolt up the rear diff cover and only 2 bolt holes lined up. The rear diff cover was one of the first purchases for this build almost 9 years ago and I never tried to bolt it up until now. Over half of the holes were way too far off to just file out larger or drill them larger. So I dug up a 9 year old reciept, contacted Ruff Stuff and a few emails later they sent me a brand new diff cover and it bolted right up. Sealed it with some Permatex black 1 minute gasket and filled it with Lucas synthetic 75w-140.

Tapped a 1/4 npt hole for a breather hose in the stock breather location. Running a 5/16 fuel line with a Dorman axle breather cap up by the bed.

Got a rear output flange for the NP205 from Tom Woods and after I win the lotto I'll be able to afford a driveshaft or 2.



 
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