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I wasn't saying he hadn't used appropriate means to get his tires/wheels.

I just know that I have "acquired" enough random stuff in my 4 years of service to know that these things happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
question: should i weld something in between the 2 sides of the shackles? if so i was thinking some thick tube through those holes.

also, im most likely going with the 3 link kit from ruff stuff. the only thing im worried about is heims on the frame end of the lowers. should i replace those for solid bushings. or just go ahead with the heims? keep in mind its going to be streetable...

thanks
-Shomsky
 

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You are planning on replacing the rear crossmember right?

While your doing that I would move the hanger forward. Its not going to settle as much as you think it will.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
You are planning on replacing the rear crossmember right?

While your doing that I would move the hanger forward. Its not going to settle as much as you think it will.
yes crossmember is getting replaced with hitch tube thing between the ends of the frame.

as for the shackle angle. it will probably be easier for me to cut a section of the frame out and sleeve it or something.

im thinking the shackle should be hanging straight down before there is any weight on it?
edit: if i make the shackle angle slightly less than 90* (swinging more to the back end) at full droop, and being forced down slightly to compensate for the axle/tire weight. i should be good right?
 

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im thinking the shackle should be hanging straight down before there is any weight on it?
edit: if i make the shackle angle slightly less than 90* (swinging more to the back end) at full droop, and being forced down slightly to compensate for the axle/tire weight. i should be good right?
That should be good, shackle should be perpendicular to ground with no weight on it.
 

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I'm definitely going to do that. I was just wondering if it matters if I have anything welded between the two pieces of shackle.
oh my bad miss read your question i guess:shaking::homer:
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I'm about to drop a grand on a front Dana 60 this weekend. I've searched high and low for cheaper 60s and can't find anything. Is there anyone remotely close to me with a cheaper 60? Or some kind of cheaper/just as strong option that I'm not thinking of? Thanks -Shomsky
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Got a Chevy Dana 60 from an 87 V30. A lot of rust and corrosion inside the passenger hub. It was a real pain in the ass pulling the hub off the pass side. But got everything apart now and working on cleanup/paint.

Pics:




Maybe some of you can help me with options:
-35 spline outers with a 35 spline flange kit. but with that comes:
-an expensive selectable locker...
-wont be able to run an inexpensive square front driveshaft...
-just run the stock front 30 spline and selectable hubs, with a lunchbox.

Is there a 35 spline flange kit using the stock selectable hubs?
 
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