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Discussion Starter #61
Finished the twin stick on the 205.



and got these in from DIYBEADLOCKS






Tranny and tcase going in this weekend. I would like it be as flat belly as possible so some tunnel reworking might be in the works.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
put the trans and tcase up today. the bottom of the mount sits about 2 inches below the bottom of the frame. the tcase sits a little lower than I would like, but oh well maybe ill get a clocking ring someday.

had to cut up the tunnel


 

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Discussion Starter #66
Made a trans tunnel with a removable top in case I need to get in there or pull the trans.

Pulled apart the ceiling and headliner. Ill get to insulating everything soon.

Cleaned up the cab, painted the firewall and inside of the roof.



 

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Sweet build. How did you get that glue crap that holds the headliner to the roof off of it? That shit is a pain in the ass.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Took the cab off the frame for better access to the cuttout I had to make in the frame for clearance of the driver side exhaust manifold.

I had to get an Astro van driver side manifold in order to clear the clutch slave.

Clean up the frame where the cab sits.

You can barely see the crossmember I made. Its 1/2" plate I heated and bent to clear the driveshaft and the upper link for the driver side.





 

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Discussion Starter #71
Just called FOA for some shock and spring rate advice. They advised that i run 250(18")/150(14") on my 16" remote res. coilovers up front. I told him I was running a first gen with all 1 ton stuff, 4.3, sm465, 205, 60/14 and winch. He said the weight difference between the stock toy and mine wasnt significant enough to change anything around. With calculators and weight guessing i came up with about 250/175. Thats with a guess of an unsprung corner weight of 950 lbs. Im thinking about buying the 250 mains right now and using them to determine what tender I will need.

Am I on the right track? What do you all suggest?
-Shomsky
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Took a break from working on the rig and was inside when my step dad and I heard 2 very loud explosions that shook the house. Went outside saw this a couple of houses down:
No one was inside. Looked like some kind of garage fire. It makes you rethink how your garage is setup...




anyways I notched the frame to clear the driver exhaust manifold.
 

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why dont you just SPUA the rear? save alot of work and time, and you will lower it quite a bit and still prolly have some pretty decent up travel
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Hmmm, Thats actually a really good idea. I didnt really even consider that. The only thing I would be concerned with is the u bolts pointing down. I suppose i could just cut them short and make some kind of gaurd?
 

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I was told they flow better and offer more torque. Mine were lengthened to give room for a larger flange to fix a sealing issue I had.
 
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