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Ive decided to run the upper link on the inside of the frame, driver side. shoudl work out pretty well now with the new frame.
I don't see this working out with the pic you have posted above.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
I finished up the new front frame section, made with .188 wall 2x3 plated with .120. All the plating was cut and prepped by hand with cutoff wheels/flap wheels, what a bitch. I was surprised how well it came out. I used about a pound of tig rod (S-2) on just the plating. and Im starting to get the hang of this whole tig thing. The overhead stuff is meh but decent enough to give me some peace of mind that it will hold with some hard hits.

I want to be able to jump it(somewhat midly) repeatedly. I dont know if thats too much to ask for but we shall see...

Anyways heres some current pics of the build:

Maybe some of you know how it is, but this shitty driveway pisses me off more than anything else...











fuck you driveway and your wheel jamming ways

 

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Discussion Starter #103
Here is the motor fit up into the mounts showing the clearances made for the exhaust on both sides. Im going to have to make a pretty hard 90+ degree downpipe coming off of the driver side manifold in order to clear the upper link if I decide to cram it in there. might have to put a bend in the upper link. Ill see once i get the axle in there and start messing with the links
Next project is crossmember and links then put the cab on to make clearances for the coilovers in the fenders.







 

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Discussion Starter #104
I don't see this working out with the pic you have posted above.
Once I get the axle under there and stare at it for a couple hours ill have to make a decision on what to do. There is definitely more clearance for the upper link on the inside now, but honestly, without a bend in it, I dont see it clearing the exhaust/motor mount/clutch slave.
You think there is anything structurally wrong with putting a slight bend in an upper? with 1.5 x .250 DOM
 

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1.5 is too small for an upper that will see a lot of force on it, especially with a bend. 2" minimum IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
the_white_shadow:34024481 said:
1.5 is too small for an upper that will see a lot of force on it, especially with a bend. 2" minimum IMO.
Oh ya that's what I meant. 2" .250. Just have to find someone that can bend that
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Ive been working on the frame side link mounts. Lower links needed to be inboarded and lower than the frame. Upper link needed to have a decent amount of seperation at the frame side. So I came up with these contraptions. They use the stock crossmember mounts/bolts but are fully welded in as well.
the tube flange mounts are for a crossmember/belly skid/rear torque mount for the 205.


Made a bracket for the clutch slave to make a better angle at the clutch fork and dodge the exhaust. This is the first time ive tried this pie cut exhaust thing. It turned out much better than I thought


Made as hard of a 90 I could for the exhaust coming off of the driver side manifold to make as much clearance for the upper link as possible although Im still pretty sure there is gonna need to be a slight bend in it.

Pics:











 

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Discussion Starter #109
Got this 205 clocking plate from Trail Tech Fab here on pirate. Fit up great, easy to install.
Clocked it up about 18 degrees I think. It gave me more room to mount the passenger, frame side, lower link mount without giving me a crazy front drive shaft angle.

Ive been mocking up the 3-link. I will have about 9" of link separation at the axle and about 7" separation on the frame side. Unless I want to sacrifice that separation by about 2" on both axle and frame side I'm definitely going to have to put a bend in the upper link, 2" .250 wall. but I plan on making some kind of strong-back stitch welded to, well... the backside of the bend.

 

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Discussion Starter #110
Couple of pics of the tranny and t-case support/skid I came up with. made with 1.75" OD .120 and 3/16" plate.











 

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Discussion Starter #112
Been a while since posting as usual. School and work sucks.

I finished the upper link. I decided it needed to be bent so the search began to find someone that would bent a piece of 2" x .250 DOM. I finally found a steel supplier in Paso Robles, CA that was able to bend it for $60.
I reinforced the bend with a "spine" made from 2"x3"x .120 square tube. Im not entirely sure if it was necessary but I dont think it will hurt.




 

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Discussion Starter #113
pics of the overall progress of the front so far.

Right now I'm trying to figure out my steering setup. I have an IFS gear box but since the axle is much further forward, I might need to get a reverse rotation gear box to avoid cutting a huge chunk out of the rad. support/fender/bodymount. something like an FJ60 gear box?



 

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Discussion Starter #115
Its been a while since Ive worked on the rig. Moved again but I got a pretty sweet garage setup going on now so Im going to start updating regularly.

Worked on mounting the steering box. I ended up getting an FJ60 box that swings forward.




 

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Discussion Starter #116
Setting up the coilovers. I will further strengthen the hoops somehow later. A removable cross brace behind or in front of the engine then connecting to the front bumper contraption.

there is still 2" of droop left (16" shock). I have an idea of where Im going to put the bumps. I think I messed up by getting the 4" bumps. I dont know what a good balance between rock crawler and desert truck is as far as the angle they should be at.







prepping for tig welding is annoying sometimes...








The hoops are just tacked in to check for clearances. Everything looks OK so far but thats a big commitment so i just want to make sure Ive thought of everything before its final. any input is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Got the front body mounts done today. I wasnt doing so hot with the tig today, weird ass positions left handed and uphill... getting better and better though.

Tomorrow Ill start on the bumpstops. hopefully get at least one fully mounted.




 

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Discussion Starter #118
Worked on the passenger bumpstop today. It took me a while to figure out what angle the bumpstops needed to be but I figured it would be best to have them about parallel to the travel of the axle (front to rear). Then kicked out 3 degrees to have a balance between the axle articulating and straight on hits. Does that seem right? Its only tacked in right now.


Here are some pics of the passenger bumpstop as well as the coilover hoops and gussets fully welded in. These will temporarily hold the vehicle until I figure out the cage/front bumper and tie into it.

Bump can:







Hoops and axle side mounts:




 

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Discussion Starter #120
Nice clean work.

Looks really good.
thanks :beer: Having only a Tig/stick machine kind of forces me to step up my fab game. It takes a a lot more time to get fitment just right but its worth it as long as I can find a good balance between making it pretty and getting it done.
 
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