Pirate 4x4 banner

121 - 140 of 250 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #123
holy shit, impressive work :smokin: i may have to check this thing out in person one of these days... cool to see another local guy on here
You should definitely come check it out. Get some ideas flowing.




Worked on the driver side bump can,and both axle bump pads. I had to put driver side bump can where it fit, so it doesnt match the passenger side because the track bar mount is in the way, but I will be able to adjust the bumps accordingly. Fully welding things in tomorrow.




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #124
A 3-link/trackbar axle moves in a lot of different ways. So I tracked where the axle was in relation to the bumpstops at all angles.
These are what I came up with:






 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
Impressive work
Thank you sir.



I fully welded in the bump cans, lower mounts and further braced the track bar mount on the axle side. I was going to further reinforce the frame side track bar/bump can mount but figured this would be enough. Anyone think I should further reinforce the bracket? maybe gusset it somehow?


Pics of the progress:






 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #127
It has been 6 years since this rig has held its own weight with its own front suspension.

I just have the main springs holding it up right now until I decide what tender springs I need. The mains are 250 lbs, so I was thinking a 175 tender?

Here are some pictures of the fully painted and assembled front setup:






 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #129
Started working on the rig again. Im going to push through and get this thing going by the end of the year. I cant believe how much shit ive gotten done on this thing yet there is still a lot of work to be done. Although I believe the hardest work (suspension front and rear, motor, tranny, tcase) is behind me. Now I need to focus on the cage, bed, interior, then fuel, brakes, exhaust.

Im really not a fan of how exo cages look, I also dont want to turn my rig into a complete raisin. So I decided I was going to make an exo as tight and as structurally sound as I could while also somewhat following the body lines. My buddy gave me some advice that I should use a tubing roller to follow said lines. So I went and bought the ol harbor freight special, with a coupon of course. bought some dies from SWAG Offroad, made a mount for the hitch on my truck and my bench in the garage, and got to rolling.

I rolled out a 15 foot piece for the B hoop, got it to match the roof contour, bent it where I wanted, and boom, B hoop. Made a basic bitch X brace with a horizontal bar and bent the uppers a tiny bit to clear the rear windows.

This is what I came up with. Ive never done anything with a cage before and this is definitely the most tube Ive ever coped. Please feel free to give me pointers, what I should or shouldnt do, and any ideas are more than welcome.

btw, rolling 1.75 x .120 DOM manually, with the ol captains wheel is a workout. Im excited for the day I roll out some tube to match the fenderwell/tire contour. Ill probably get jacked up on some pre workout and go to town.






 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #130
Next step was the sliders. Im mostly finished with them. The ends of the two middle supporting tubes will get 1/8th" scab plates. I will also be adding a some plate with upside down dimple dies for a kind of traction plate where you would step onto them.

I also tied the pinch seam into the sliders to spread out any impacts and connect the body to the tube structure more to prevent too much flex between the body and cage.

The sliders were warping from welding way more than I thought they would, I didnt clamp them or anything, decided to just go with the natural curve it created and in my opinion, it looks fairly decent.

Some pics of the sliders: (made from 1.5x1.5x.188, 1x1x.120, 3/4"x1/8th" angle, and 1.75x.120 DOM)





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #133
Finished the sliders/steps. I decided I wanted the mexican big rig look. So I got a set of dimple dies from RuffStuff and made some grippy step panels. Im going to incorporate them into a lot more stuff.

I have a bunch of random stainless sheet metal so I decided to use it for these panels, this is 18 ga. 300 series. Then for some reason I started sanding and kept sanding, so up to a 1200 wet sand, this is what I got.

For the paint: couple of coats of rubberized undercoating ,Rustoleum. then satin black, Ace brand. then Semi-Gloss Clear, Rustoleum.

Also, that little deburring tool is the business. I used a hole cutter then that little tool cleans up the edges of the holes. It makes real nice ribbons, cuts extremely well.







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,875 Posts
Very clean work. What size dimple dies did you get from Ruffstuff? I want to incorporate some go-fast holes in my next build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #135
Very clean work. What size dimple dies did you get from Ruffstuff? I want to incorporate some go-fast holes in my next build.
I have the medium set, 1.25", 1.50", and 1.75". I got this set because it seems to be the most universal for my needs, and for the quality I dont think their price can be beat. Ill probably get the small set soon to make step panels, gas, brake, clutch petals, and just pepper them with little dimples for grip etc... Eventually Id like to get all of them.

although the ruff stuff ones dont have a hole in the middle to use a bolt to press them together, so youd have to use a press. which will limit the size plate or panel you can dimple, depending on the size of the panel you can fit in the press.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #136
Very clean work. What size dimple dies did you get from Ruffstuff? I want to incorporate some go-fast holes in my next build.
Also, if you do get some dimple dies I would highly recommend that little deburring tool. Theres a bunch of different types and brands but I think the one I got is pretty nice. About $15 on amazon.

I used a dremel with a drum sander on the inside of the holes to get rid of the teeth/chatter marks from the hole cutter, then the deburring tool to create a really clean edge on both sides. I can imagine the deburring tool would also help with extending the life of the dimple dies so its not pressing into a sharp edge everytime, also grease.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #137
Been working on the rig here and there when I get a chance while going to school. I just recently found out I got accepted to Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo for mechanical engineering so I will be starting in September. My plan is to work on the rig full time during the summer. Many updates are to come.

Ive been busy doing some body work, sanding, and more sanding. I need to keep reminding myself that this is a rock crawler.

The plan is to paint it the original Toyota Beige color with some retro decals.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
Discussion Starter #138
Got to working on the tranny tunnel. Made with 3/4" x 3/4" x .080 wall rect. tube and 16 gauge sheet.

I got a tilt steering column from an 84 chevy s10 and it seems like it should work well with a few modifications.

The next step is to finish up the 205 twin stick linkage and shifters.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
29,441 Posts
congrats on getting into cal poly :smokin:
 
121 - 140 of 250 Posts
Top