[cowhead5065]

here are the specs:
stock 360
stock trans and t case
high pinion 60 front
14 bolt rear
39.5x15x16.5 tsl
h1 beadlocks

body is removed from frame. I am blasting the frame and por15 the frame and underside of body.
ordering spring perches for the 60 and 14 bolt
high steer arms for the 60
blah blah blah

Now i want to spring over with little lift. What springs did you use? what could i pull from a junk yard that anyone has had luck with? This is going to be a very low budget build......:flipoff2:

 

[TJP]

The springs you have should work fine if they aren't too rusted and thrashed. If you replace the front springs get the 7 leaf replacement spring pack from JcWhitney or some Rancho 44044's which are 2.5" waggy front lift springs.

In the rear some 63" chevy springs out of a 88-98 fullsize pickup are a good choice. The 4wd spring pack have more arc and 1 more leaf then the 2wd spring pack is almost flat with one less leaf. That is if I remember correctly.

 

[rustywagoneersdotcom]

i would just use the stock fronts SOA. you will want to stock up. because every time you bash the shackle, you will probably bend a main.

If you are up for it, make the front the hard mount, run shackles in back like a GM, just be ready to get a long-slip driveshaft.

Or, run them as is, and make part of your front bumper into a 'ramp' that you can slide up instead of banging the shackle.

you should put the rears under the frame, to match the SOA up front. I would probably just use the FSJ springs in back (if they arenet trashed) and for my money, i would run them backwards. flip the fronts and the rears and you will be near 116 WB for no money. The FSJ rears are like 57 ish long, and fairly heavliy offset. several guys on IFSJA are using 63 inch GM rears in a similar setup. they work nicely also. but if the rears are ok, i would just use them.

definitely do an anti-wrap bar if you flip them.

peace
Dave

 

[RATHEFSJMAN]

hey just a little info that sent my rig to the crusher, watch in the front of the frame where its boxed and make sure theres no rust. that part of the frame holds mud and water and will trash a frame. and make sure if you put the shackles in the rear mount to adjust your pinion angle. the guy i bought my 55 willys from had a 6in lift sua and 2" lift shackles with them in the back mount, and couldnt figure out why he kept busting 208s in half dropping off ledges:shaking:. oh and not to mention the 4in blocks from autozone in the rear what a dumbass. he had it posted on craiglist for 3500 or something:shaking:.

 

[cowhead5065]

cool thanks for the info. i will get some pics up when i get a star....

 

[cowhead5065]

with the 39's is hydro assist a must? could i get a junkyard box from another vehicle with more power? any input is appreciated.

 

[rustywagoneersdotcom]

The FSJ box is as stout as any. Hydro will be necessary if the front is locked. 39's and open, it won't be great, but it will work (make a steering box brace) but if you are locking the front, might as well go hydro assist now.

peace
Dave

 

[cowhead5065]

started mocking up the front 60. i need to grind into the housing to acheive close to eqaul distance on both side. Can i grind out this much?(see attached link to pics) Or should i raise the whole pad? any pics on how you did this? thanks. I will start posting build pics when i get them organized. thanks, Jason

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c65/cowhead5065/IMG_0242.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c65/cowhead5065/IMG_0243.jpg

 

[rustywagoneersdotcom]

IMHO. I would just outboard the springs. Is that a later axle? (86 to 91 or whatever the exact years are) If so you hafe 36.5 center pin distance, which means you need to move the springs out 2.5 inches per side.

You can do it relatively easily. Cut off the outer part of your stock spring hanger (on the frame, front and rear). Make a spacer and use it between the leaf and the inner part of the spring hanger. Then make a new outer half of the spring hanger and tie it up into the frame. (tube cut at a 45, or triangles out of plate).

All in my humble opinion, of course.

peace
Dave

 

[cowhead5065]

i am just worried about tire rub if i outboard the springs. I will be running h1 with full backspace(7")????

 

[rustywagoneersdotcom]

is it a DRW front axle or a SRW?

peace
Dave

 

[cowhead5065]

srw

 

[cowhead5065]

i also have a chevy 60 dually front and a dana 300 tha could be swapped in. how big of wheel spacers will i need for the back if i use the dually and the stock h1 wheels?

 

[cowhead5065]

I have read that when people swap from drums to discs that you should also swap the master cylinder to a 4 wheel disc setup as well. I did the same in a yj i built a few years ago and left the stock mc and had a lot of problems. Should i swap the mc? if so what will bolt in with out alot of modification? should i also change the proportioning valve? i will get some progress pics when i actually make some progress. thanks

 

[cowhead5065]

i think i am going with a different power train. i can get a 1970 caddy 500 for cheap. what would be the best trans and t case? 400 and 205? what years will bolt up with or without and adapters? thanks jason

 

[cowhead5065]

pulled the body off. got new mounting kit from bj's offroad. the bolts are shot. is there a bolt kit? how are you mounting the new body mounts? thanks