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Discussion Starter #1
since its tuesday... i was wondering if anyone could tell me (or even post a pic) EXACTLY where the wire going to the O2 sensor comes out of the harness loom... evidently one of the cocksnugglers that used to own this truck removed the O2 sensor when they removed the cat (no inspections here), and im trying to get it back to running properly, i cant find the wire for the sensor, im hoping they didnt just cut it! :shaking:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
im also curious why when i pulled the codes, i got 5 (O2 sensor), 52 (knock sensor).... i thought the 85 only had codes 1-13
 

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It's by the coil. In the pic it is the yellow plug.

And remember the o2 sensor goes on the exhaust manifold. I had the exact same problem as you and this is what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!!! i had suspected that plug, evidently they just unplugged it... now i can get that took care of and hopefully that will help my driveability issues, if not im gonna start on the punch list everyone else went thru.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
okay, since thats been explained, can anyone explain why my 85 gives codes above 13?
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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tacoman... im guessing you just welded a bung on that tube and used a sensor such as this???
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Sensor-Bosch_3486079-P_291_R|GRPEMISAMS_____

it may be simpler for me to weld a bung into the downpipe from the manifold and do just that, instead of finding another manifold with the stock location and going thru the swap with possible broken/striped bolts ect.
I used a stock 02 sensor. You are right I put in a header and welded the bung on. The big thing with the o2 in 85 is its a single wire and has to be close to the motor to read the heat properly. The later years have a 2 wire o2 and are placed further down the exhaust.
 

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4 wire o2 sensors are heated o2 sensors is what he was trying to say... that is what they dont need to be close to motor.... they will heat themselfs up
 

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even with adding a o2 bung you really want to read off ALL the cylinders rather then 1.... thats why i think if its not a good header with proper bung or add a heated o2 its not worth the risk of leaning out the motor because the cylinder it is reading may happen to be the only cyilder running rich which will then lean out the rest of the system just because 1 cylinder was reading bad....you could have sticky injector or something but then you end up with a leaned out motor and any one knows lean conditions cause fun things like burnt valves melted rings spun rod bearings seized crank....lol....get the right header on there.... i raced cars for many many years squeezing out as much hp out of motors as possible....somethings just arent worth the extra ponies.....
 

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also the ecu may not be the right year for that truck.... check it out as well....read the numbers theres a ecu number guide somewhere in the bible
 

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even with adding a o2 bung you really want to read off ALL the cylinders rather then 1.... thats why i think if its not a good header with proper bung or add a heated o2 its not worth the risk of leaning out the motor because the cylinder it is reading may happen to be the only cyilder running rich which will then lean out the rest of the system just because 1 cylinder was reading bad....you could have sticky injector or something but then you end up with a leaned out motor and any one knows lean conditions cause fun things like burnt valves melted rings spun rod bearings seized crank....lol....get the right header on there.... i raced cars for many many years squeezing out as much hp out of motors as possible....somethings just arent worth the extra ponies.....
When I bought my truck it didn't have a manifold with a o2 slot so I bought a header. Plus I think the stock manifold o2 only reads out of 1 or 2 tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
also the ecu may not be the right year for that truck.... check it out as well....read the numbers theres a ecu number guide somewhere in the bible
i had suspected this... i guess its possible the wires activated by the jumper wire is the same two wires between theearly and later models, someone put a newer computer in it and thats why im getting the code 52??? ill get the ecu numbers and check them tonite.
 

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When I bought my truck it didn't have a manifold with a o2 slot so I bought a header. Plus I think the stock manifold o2 only reads out of 1 or 2 tubes.
stock manifold does not read 1 or 2 it reads in the collector which ALL factory manifolds meet....in all my years of wrenching o2's from the factory always read from collector or main tube never 1 or 2 cylinders...thats a "cheap" after market thing.....the high dollar ones move to collector and normally require heated o2.....if a car manufactured only read of 1 or 2 cylinders do you realize how uneffiecent that would be....lol....whats the point of o2 sensor at that point..... and with out o2 sensor on fuel injected your better off with a carbsetup.... at least that way "set it and forget it" fuel system will be acurate unlike a "electronic controled fuel injection" or "EFI" if the o2 snsor cant tell computer what motor needs it will never run right no matter if you think it runs good or not.....do yourself a favor install a heated o2 sensor or put stock manifold on.....yes stock manifold will loose 2-3 hp but you will gain reliability which means you'll get home!!!!!! but then again up to you.....

im going to guess its an 88-91 ecu as these years are still obd 0 and have a knock sensor...add a knock sensor and wire if yo need to keep your ecu.... theres a spot for it on your block.....but not sure how much skill you have ?
 

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On my 85 I modded in a 4 wire o2 sensor.. Its really easy.. One wire for the sensor, one is ground and the other two are the heater element... I just ran the element side to the ignition hot wire so when the ignition is on the element is heating. Theres a write up about it somewhere on this site.. :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I used a stock 02 sensor. You are right I put in a header and welded the bung on. The big thing with the o2 in 85 is its a single wire and has to be close to the motor to read the heat properly. The later years have a 2 wire o2 and are placed further down the exhaust.
the 2 or 4 wire o2 sensors are heated o2 sensors is what he was trying to say... that is what they dont need to be close to motor.... they will heat themselfs up
two wire is not heated so why would that make a differance letting it be mounted further away from the motor... and how much of a difference can there be between the manifold and the upper portion of the downpipe since they are steel and hard connected? metal transfers heat and it will balance itself out, plus there is the same temp gas going thru the pipe as thru the manifold, which happens to be hotter than the engine temp... seems like splitting hairs. and no, im not some dumbarse that has never worked on a vehicle before, my other vehicle is a supercharged mustang that runs 7.30's in the 1/8, tuned by me with megasquirt and my LM-2.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
this is a stock 22re, not a 500+rwhp car... i think im gonna get a bung welded into the upper portion of the exhaust and get the replacement bosch screw-in style one wire sensor... it HAS to be better than NO sensor (currently the situation).
 

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im not getting into a pissing match but its not splitting hairs.... from a factory bung hole to a after market collector rougly 18 inchs to 2 ft away from each other..... why can you touch the end of an exhaust tip but not the header?its still touching metal? length does make a difference when it comes to heat being dispursed and take the old ladie out back.. 7.80 1/8th :D we race 1/4 mile here....were not scared of going fast.... :D

either way get you a o2 in there and go from there.... ever get numbers of ecu ? and the other post about 2 wire never got erased wqhen i started saying something else....post fixed...

and lets just say that is a 30 degree difference in 2 ft..... that in itself could be enough to not warm o2 enough or warm up late..... they switched to a 4 wire for a reason and now does most cars have 2 o2 sensors.....so more the marrier unless your trying to make hp....then just more of a pain in the ass....as im sure you may know....although you dont have to deal with your map seeing any boost/psi vs vac and run into fun fun stuff...good old turbo...chargers are fun for street but take turbo all day with track car... i had a1991 turbo DD 427 dyno'd rear wheel hp mr2 about 13 years ago :D so i know hp in toyota's with 4cyl..... she was a woman getting puppy.....some of the locals on board has road in it....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
im not getting into a pissing match but its not splitting hairs.... from a factory bung hole to a after market collector rougly 18 inchs to 2 ft away from each other..... why can you touch the end of an exhaust tip but not the header?its still touching metal? length does make a difference when it comes to heat being dispursed and take the old ladie out back.. 7.80 1/8th :D we race 1/4 mile here....were not scared of going fast.... :D

either way get you a o2 in there and go from there.... ever get numbers of ecu ? and the other post about 2 wire never got erased wqhen i started saying something else....post fixed...

and lets just say that is a 30 degree difference in 2 ft..... that in itself could be enough to not warm o2 enough or warm up late..... they switched to a 4 wire for a reason and now does most cars have 2 o2 sensors.....so more the marrier unless your trying to make hp....then just more of a pain in the ass....as im sure you may know....although you dont have to deal with your map seeing any boost/psi vs vac and run into fun fun stuff...good old turbo...chargers are fun for street but take turbo all day with track car... i had a1991 turbo DD 427 dyno'd rear wheel hp mr2 about 13 years ago :D so i know hp in toyota's with 4cyl..... she was a woman getting puppy.....some of the locals on board has road in it....
WOW! now that was hard to understand! :D as for 1/8th mi... thats all ive got for tracks locally, and that is in my 3400# car with cruise, A/C, ps, pb pdl... fully optioned street car, and i should be in the 6's in the spring.

ill let you know how it goes with my sensor.
 
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