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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1985 toyota 22re which has been rebuilt. I have no idea when. 285,000 miles and purrs like a kitten, fires up every time. But it will not bump start. Several months ago my starter failed and ended up having to bump start it. On a long steep hill I was able to get it to rev to 2,500 rpm in second gear but it would not fire. I had to engage the starter while it was in gear to get it to rotate to a spot where it could spin. When it engaged the truck slowed down but it fired. I have since tried bump starting multiple times with no luck. Yes the key was on. After lots of research I have discovered that the only thing my truck doesn't have is a clutch cancel switch. What should I look for or do to make it work. It's nice to have a backup option when the truck can't start under it's own power.

Thanks G
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If the engine is spinning at an adequate speed, it either has to be fuel or spark that is keeping it from running. I am leaning more towards fuel because the coils get power when the key is on. And it runs fine so spark is present. I think something about turning the key to the start position fires the injectors giving it fuel to start but they won't fire unless the key has already been turned to start.
 

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Ya. That is what I think but I have no idea what to look for in order to make it bump start like any other manual would.
 

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This thread needs a long cat.
 

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My 85 did not come with a clutch cancel switch, nor does it need one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It may not need a clutch cancel switch. I was just saying that is the only thing I have found so far that is out of the ordinary. Can a 85 22re even bump start or is this just a factory thing that can't be messed with? I am going to try unhooking the small wire to the solenoid on the starter so the starter won't engage when I'm trying to bump it. I think it might work if I hold the key to start while I am trying. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 

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I hope you escape a home invasion only to realize your truck won't bump start and you get slashed a few times trying to push it when they realize you left the house and can't escape because you unhooked your starter.


Ill read that story



If it ain't broke, fix it till it is!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It actually worked. Just gonna run a switch inline with the solenoid so I can keep the starter from running from inside the cab. I guess it could be an added security feature too.
 

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I had my "security feature" wired to the ignition for awhile then realized I wanted to hear the scumbag trying to steal my truck and quickly changed it..I broke power the the coil and ran it to a female microphone plug-in and carried the male in my pocket. .truck would not start without it plugged in :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That is a good point. It would be nice to hear it. The coils work good for that too. I just use a factory switch that isn't hooked up and use that so it doesn't look out of place.
 

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You have some wiring screwed up some where, my 90 will bump start just fine. I took the wires of the CCS and taped them together because I did not want to have to push it if I was in the middle of a hairy situation!! :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No doubt the wiring is screwed up. The important stuff works. But I lose power to my power outlet when I turn on the headlights, when the key isn't in the truck I can turn on the headlights and the radio turns on. A portable solar panel plugged in also turns the radio on. I want to fix it but it would take me multiple days and it's my daily driver. It will have to wait until I'm out of high school to do that.
 

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Or you could do what I did when I was in High School(in the dark ages), rode my bicycle or walked!!:)
:laughing: I still think he's not turning it all the way to run, until he turns it to start.



There is 2 positions past the lock, before start.

Your radio is wired to the 12V outlet. It is a switched outlet. Which means, it is supposed to be powered off when the key is off. Plugging the solar panel into the 12V outlet, means you are providing power to the normally off circuit (when the key is off). With the switched wire (acc) on your radio wired to the 12V receptacle, and the memory wire (12V constant hot) connected, there is no reason your radio should NOT come on. It's simple logic. :flipoff2: BOOYAH! Bet that is exactly what is going on.

As for the losing power when you turn on the headlights, that is a ground issue. Check your dash grounds. Toyota liked to use non-insulated splice connectors. Found that on mine. Those like to corrode. Your marker light wires for the rear, runs inside the main dash harness, over to the passenger side. From there, it goes down the passenger door sill, across to the passenger seat, down through the floor, then down the frame rail (this also houses your fuel pump and fuel sender wires). Had a small fire in that harness in my truck last year, right below the seat. Figured out there was something wrong, when I pull all the fuses, and the lights are still on.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I know the key is on because when the key is on all the gauges and lights work in the dash. The tach reads the rpm and everything. The engine sounds as though it is running. Exhaust note changes with throttle but doesn't accelerate. As soon as it turns to start, I have engine power. Engine sounds exactly the same but will accelerate. I think that turning it to start begins a cycle for the injectors or something. If I turn the key a little past on, nothing changes. The key has to be all the way forward.
 
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