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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up an '88 HP D60 and I want to keep the build as simple as possible (ie. not cutting the tubes down). I want to run my existing coils and fabricate around this. I understand it requires a pro to weld to cast, got it.

But my main question is what kind of clearancing issues will I run into with this setup? Will I need to outboard my coil a bit on the drivers side? Pictures are appreciated.

Also before any of you fawkers start, I searched! :flipoff2: I went back 38 pages, read probably 20 build ups, searched again, google'd and here I am with the same questions. Everyone and their sister runs a 78-79 D60. And no, I won't sell my axle and get a 78-79. Thanks. :smokin:
 

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Hmmm, sounds like a good idea.... a non 78-79 60 in a tj? I wonder? I guess you could pioneer and be the first to see if it'll work? Let us know!
 

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Here's what I figured out, the reason I also did the 78-79 60, the drivers side tube is just long enough to squeeze a coil bucket and truss into. I tried to do a newer superduty Dana 60 under it and there just isn't enough room. I was going to build a complete flat truss from outside of knuckle to outside of knuckle to mount up coil buckets. Just an idea for ya.OR you can just do coilovers and call it good. Hope it turns out good for ya though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Phantom, I'll keep ya posted. :smokin:
LockedupLJ, great lookin rig man

Yeah the 2 guys I've seen do it, did just that. I'm just afraid I'll have to And I thought about capturing the coils if needed like the rockwell guys. I'd run coilovers in a heartbeat if they weren't so expensive. If anyone's got cheap coilover secrets, please pass them along.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Anyone seen slightly skinnier coils (in diameter, so's not to hit the diff) that still have enough rigidness to them? Also is that the ONLY reason why folks don't run these in TJ's? Any issues with frame rails in the way?
 

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Chris I'm in the same boat as you... I've got a 88' F350 SRW... going FOX 2.5's though, they're cheaper than coilovers, maybe something you could look into?
 

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I HAVE a dana 60 in the front of my tj from a 87 seems to work fine ill get pics if thats what your asking.i have fox coilovers up front
 

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Shortening the front axle is not as bad as you think. I have done it with very basic tools, grinder, chop saw, sawzall...about 2 hours job. However, I used a 79 hp60 and cut the driver side 2.75", driveshaft is straight and coils fit well.
 

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I did this swap a few years ago........pretty easy. I could take a few pictures.
 

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I'm putting a 95 D60 in a YJ and I have to shorten the longside to get the diff/pinion inside the frame rails so the driveshaft will fit. I would think the TJ's would have a similar problem.
 

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it'll work. search p&t jeeps. he cut his but this will show you how to make your brackets. the spring pad width on this axle is 36 inches. same as the coil bucket width on my tj. ask me how I know
 

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cisco, yeah I measured the same... why did p&t narrow, did he just want a narrow width?
no idea! I made my coil retainers and lowers all in one, ala P&T's. On the short side I welded to the tube on the outside, but on the cast side I tapped the cast pad and ran 2 grade 8 1/2 inch bolts through that side of the bracket into the cast. With it welded good to the tube and with the 1/2 inch bolts, it isn't going anywhere. and it is definitely stronger than me trying to mig to the cast!
:flipoff2:

I had no other issues with it fitting. My suspension is a clayton's hard arm, and I pushed my front forward about 7 inches, but I do not think there would have been an issue if I had left it in the stock location! HTH!
 

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Dust Puppy from here axle in a TJ.
 

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Running a '90 HP60 in mine...shortened the longside to run a 78-79 off-the-shelf shaft. It's really _not_ as hard as some make it out to be...took a couple hours by myself (now having done it would likely go faster as I was very anal w/ the measurements) WMS is now ~66.5" instead of 69" which is still slightly wider than my stock 79 D60 rear. Here's a pic while centering things up to measure for the trackbar and draglink.



--Ian
 

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I'm putting a 95 D60 in a YJ and I have to shorten the longside to get the diff/pinion inside the frame rails so the driveshaft will fit. I would think the TJ's would have a similar problem.
Um no. It has nothing to do with the driveshaft. You have to narrow that axle because it has a 36" spring center and will not fit into a YJ without outboarding the springs.
 

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Um no. It has nothing to do with the driveshaft. You have to narrow that axle because it has a 36" spring center and will not fit into a YJ without outboarding the springs.
Bingo!! We have a winner!! Chris 97tj. it'll work, I assure you!

Here are my thoughts on shortening vs. full-width: If you live out west and run trails like the hammers and the Rubicon then most people shorten them because most of these trails are tight with big rocks and very technical. A narrower rigs seems to work better. ( although i have trailered to the Rubicon and had no problems with width). If you live in the south or east then most leave them full-width because trails are wider and much steeper. Also, some people live in an area where cops are hardcore and write tickets for too wide tires and crap like that. Me I live in Northwest Arkansas, we don't even have vehicle inspections!! I spend all my time at Hot Springs, Clayton, and Disney. Here width and wheelbase, big horsepower, and huge tires are king. So I stayed full-width. Plus I like the fact that off the shelf shafts will fit my axles and I don't have to pony up for custom length. Really it boils down to wheeling style, terrain, location, and mainly personeL preference. HTH
 
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