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Discussion Starter #1
Got about as far as I'm going to get till April 15th (3 guesses as to occupation) It's only been run at Miller Jeep Trail, Clear Creek and Hollister Hills, but we're off to AZ soon as tax season is over.
Started life as regular X-Cab. Took 12" out of frame and lopped off about 6" on rear. About 96" wb now. Pulled gas tank & put in two 15 gal. fuel cells from Summit. Big mistake, but thought I wanted that much for Mexico trips
Stock 22RE motor. SAS is from an 84. Marlin dual case. 5.29's turning Pro Comp 35's. ARB's from & rear. All Pro cage yet to install. Marlin HySteer.
Cut out section behind pass. seat to put in 2nd battery and inverter & provide rack for ARB referig. Tool box yet to be fab'd into bed and decision as to spare tire location yet to be made. Suggestions?
15" shocks front & rear. Ramsey REP8000 in a Rockstomper bumper. Rear bumper still under construction and on-board welder waiting to be installed. LED tail & turns flush mounted.
Did pretty much all the work ourselves, except gear setup & tube bending.
I can already hear the thrashing I'll take, but wondering about anyone who has actual experience with revolvers. I have them, but haven't installed them yet. I've followed my friends jeep for a lot of years watching his revolvers work exactly the way they are suppose to. Other than "not invented here", is there any reason why revolvers would work on a jeep but not on a toy?
 

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looks good, revolvers are a matter of opinion and personal prefernece. I knwo guys with them on their toys and they like them. They are not for me though
 

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Got a question about your rockstomper front bumper. Did you tie the top into the frame or shock hoops like you are supposed to? I haven't yet but need to and am trying to figure out where i want to tie it into. Also why mistake on the fuel cells? I am thinking of going just one 35 gallon fuel cell that a company can build here. ???
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I measured (more than twice) the opening and found summit cells that showed that two of them would fit the opening between the round bar crossmember and the rear one and between the frames and didn't appear too high, 10" I think. When I got them, found the TIG welding beads added just enough that it was too tight. They fit, but I'm concerned about them rubbing together and taking the weld out. the mounting tabs had to come out due to space limitations, so they are banded down, not as solid a fit.
There are vents on the top for returns that I didn't take into account. Raised my bed almost 3 inches higher than I thought it would be. The sump goes down so far that I'm concerned about spring contact at full articulation. The fuel outlet, with adapters on them stick out to where I'm concerned about tires rubbing. Have a fabricated shield, but that ended up going out past frame width.
Crossover pump is low pressure, so it's not bad and only used for transferring fuel from one cell to the other, but the high pressure external pump is noisy, way noiser than the engine. It's all you can hear at low speed or stopped. And yes, I used rubbe mounting brackets. I've wrapped the hoses and anchored them. Still puts out a harmonic noise.
Size and noise are the two big negatives. I didn't plan on my bed being so far off the frame, almost 6 inches. Can't go any lower without getting into diff range.
The GM sending unit hooks right into the Toy wires. Gauge just reads backwards. Opened plastic in dash and repainted the F & E letters to the opposite.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
On the bumper, I just finished the mounting this weekend. I used a long wide sheet of 5/16th for reinforcement on the rear. Needed tow hooks, so mounted them at a 45degree on inside under winch plate, sticking out far enough that strap pull free.
Used the two bolt holes for the tow hooks to mount a 1/4" plate on each side on those thick plates coming down and welded a piece on back to the top of the body mounts. the mounting surface isn't real heavy metal, but I think the angle of the pull will be out, not down or sideways, so I'm hoping it will work. I've seen a lot of tension build up on the cable pulling my sorry butt out and would be concerned about ripping the shock towers out, given where it would have to be attached.

I really thought I could stand the tire up on the bed right behind the driver seat w/o blocking vision, but now that it's together, I don't see that happening. The spreader bars go out too far and the tire would be sticking out in mirror range towards its rear.
I'm still looking at places I see them on other flatbeds. I would go high, but the bed is so high now I don't like the center of gravity considerations.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
fireman - i got too windy with my reply on the cell and didn't answer your question. Have a custom one built. that's what i should have had done. Arrow would have made one that fit for about $300, which is what I ended up paying for the two cells. Arrow took my measurements and came up with about 26 gallons, only going 8" high instead of 10. Now that I see it, I'd have gone with about 22 gal and only gone about 6" high. Those stupid return things really get in the way.
 

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SEABASS -curious why not finished, no time or money or did you find something you didn't like an the basics of it. I put 5.5" lift and 2" body lift and it scared me it was so tippy. Took the body lift off and feels lots better, but even with the spacers front and rear, it doesn't have the same solid feel my TJ had. I feel like I can see why so many people put cages on the outside.
I'm wondering about wider axles.
 

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dennisforest said:
SEABASS -curious why not finished, no time or money or did you find something you didn't like an the basics of it. I put 5.5" lift and 2" body lift and it scared me it was so tippy. Took the body lift off and feels lots better, but even with the spacers front and rear, it doesn't have the same solid feel my TJ had. I feel like I can see why so many people put cages on the outside.
I'm wondering about wider axles.
ran out of $ and it sat for near 2 years, and I wanted to wheel! So I had a real nice rig, with some parts, most of the work done on the SAS, so I sold it for $5k and bout my sammie that was sort of ready to wheel[it needed a cage] and I've been building on it since last March. I love having a running rig again, I drive it every wherer and refuse to tear it down for more then a werek or 2 to do mods:D
 

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Thanks Dennis, That is what i thought about doing, taking the supports back to the tow hook area. That looked like the easiest and best in case i ran into something. If attached to the shock hoops i was afraid of it busting them off if I ran into something. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Believe me, I'd put 1/2" steel plate on the bottom of the tank before I hassled around w/ the cells again. If you really want rear gas like that, I'd go w/ a custom built tank.
 
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