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Atomic Test Lab Rat
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3,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
With the new updates to this site, I moved this glacially slow build to a new location and wont be posting any more updates. If you want to follow this build use this link ---> Follow the build Here


I originally got part way into a buggy build and realized after getting married and buying a house the funds just weren't there to complete it in any sort of reasonable time. So I decided to back it up some and build a cheap trail truck.

Started by picking up this 1988 F250 7.3L IDI from a guy at work for $1500. *It's a Regular Cab Long bed, plans are to leave the wheel base alone and bob the bed. *Going to build an internal cage. *Major specs as follows

7.3L IDI non turbo diesel, 5speed ZF, Bronco BW1356 (fixed yoke)
D60, 35 spline outers, Lockrite locker
Sterling 10.25 Welded
38.5" SX on recentered H1's

Plan is to run the stock F350 front leafs for now and cut the fenders for tire clearance. *



Grabbed a 86 F350 Parts truck for $500, I kept the axles and suspension and sold the rest off so I ended up making $100 on the deal in the end.



Friend of mine decided he wanted a set of 43" SX so I picked up his 38.5" SXs for $450 and a set of H1s off of him for another $125 for 5, I already had a spare 38.5" SX.
 

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Atomic Test Lab Rat
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3,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Cutout of my H1 centers at a friends shop with the plasma cutter, doing them by hand would have sucked.


The outer rings I kept from my buggy and they were already ford Blue so it worked out perfectly, I liked the look so much Im going to paint the inners gray and leave the outers blue.
 

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Atomic Test Lab Rat
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3,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Got the tires mounted and test fit them with the truck still on the TTB. The bushings on my truck were shot so it had horrible death wobble above 25mph with the swampers on.



Crusty axle and cheap Harbor freight engine stand I converted to axle stand


Axle started going together, Traded my stock 3.54 gears and regeared to 4.10, Solid knuckles (got a killer deal on these after selling my stock knuckles) and cover, Lockrite locker, 4340 35 spline stubs and stock inners for now.
 

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FoMoCo MoFo
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4,590 Posts
What are those spindle bearings? UHMW...?
 

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463 Posts
Axle all buttoned up


Side note, I'm not pumped about the G2 hubs I bought, I was trying to be cheap and I don't think they are going to last. *They don't appear to be even as strong as the stock hubs. *We will see but I might pull them and get something else before it hits the trail. *






My cousin has a similar build. His is a '96 F350 with a 460 and he's running G2 hubs since the factory ones were FUBARed. So far he has broken two of them, but I guess they have a lifetime warranty. Still sucks when it cuts a trip short. He is running 38.5" Boggers for reference:





 

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Atomic Test Lab Rat
Joined
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3,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
What are those spindle bearings? UHMW...?
Yea, I had them left over from a build from like 5 years ago. Longfield makes them. You can buy them from trailgear still. They have some grooves machined in them to hold grease and I have a grease tool that threads onto the end of the D60 spindle so I can grease them while they are installed periodically.
 

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Atomic Test Lab Rat
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3,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
My cousin has a similar build. His is a '96 F350 with a 460 and he's running G2 hubs since the factory ones were FUBARed. So far he has broken two of them, but I guess they have a lifetime warranty. Still sucks when it cuts a trip short. He is running 38.5" Boggers for reference]
Yea, Kind of what I was expecting after they showed up in the mail. I have a feeling I will be switching to drive flanges at some point instead.
 

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Atomic Test Lab Rat
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3,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I attempted to measure for my tierod last night but it started raining and trying to operate the tape measure by myself under the truck from one wheel to the other proved to be more difficult than I was expecting. So I gave up, got a buddy stopping by to hold the other end of the tape tonight.

I'm going to set it for 1/8" toe in and make the tie rod for that, anyone have a better way to measure it other than just going from one rim to the other?
 

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Atomic Test Lab Rat
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3,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
When we built my buddys F250 we just threw on a stock F350 tie rod with the D60. Or are the solid knuckles different?
They are chevy taper setup for over the steering arm tierod. So I have a ruffstuff steering setup for it. Just didnt anticipate not being able to get good measurements by myself. I dont have a fancy alignment tool that goes on the rim so Im using the inner rim lip to measure off of.
 

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344 Posts
Im betting youll hate the ttb springs up front, but Ive been proven wrong before haha My 78 was suppose to be a cheap type trail truck...buy did that get out of hand quick!!!
 

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Premium Member
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3,974 Posts
I attempted to measure for my tierod last night but it started raining and trying to operate the tape measure by myself under the truck from one wheel to the other proved to be more difficult than I was expecting. So I gave up, got a buddy stopping by to hold the other end of the tape tonight.

I'm going to set it for 1/8" toe in and make the tie rod for that, anyone have a better way to measure it other than just going from one rim to the other?
Use a curtain rod, its WAAAYYYY easier than a tape measure..
 

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2,293 Posts
They are chevy taper setup for over the steering arm tierod. So I have a ruffstuff steering setup for it. Just didnt anticipate not being able to get good measurements by myself. I dont have a fancy alignment tool that goes on the rim so Im using the inner rim lip to measure off of.
the Ruffstuff pieces are pretty adjustable, thread the inserts onto the TREs throw them in the knuckle, get a rough measurement (longer is better) cut and try it, shorten if needed
 
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