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ROKRAPR
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I figured I'd start a build here even though I've only had it for a month and it is so far pretty mild, but I'm not sure the direction yet.

If you want to tell me to eat a bag of dicks and report to YotaTech I'd understand, but I'm still going to post here :flipoff2:

I've been looking for a clean 1st gen for a while for a daily (weekend) driver. I have a work truck that I can only use for work, and a dually. I need something to get around, and I want a family camping rig as well.

So far the plan is mild lift, 33's, 4.88's, Lockers, Dual Case and 63" Chevy's. I may go long travel and hydro assist in the front.

If this turns out to be an expedition “Overlanding” rig I'm going to be pissed.

I picked this up from my buddy as he decided it was to clean to cut up. After having it for awhile, it is to clean to cut up. Almost zero rust (except a little around the windshield frame) and excellent paint. Top hasn't been off in over 25 years. Under the carpet the floor looks brand new.









While the body and frame are in excellent condition, the engine and drivetrain are pretty roached. Trans is shot, incredible noisy, everything is leaking, oil pan, seals, diffs, it's an oily mess. And I'm pretty sure the timing chain tensioners are broken, and it has a rough idle. That being said it actually past a Bay Area Smog check, barely. Truck has just under 250K.

I'm not really sure where I'm going to go with this build, but I already have the Juggy, so I might try something different than SAS.



I've been working on it for the past few weeks, so the next few posts will be catching up to where I am currently.
 

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ROKRAPR
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1,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
First day I had it, I swung by All Standard Transmission in Campbell Ca and talked with Kevin the owner. He has done a few trans rebuilds for me in the past, and he had a rebuilt W56 sitting on the shelf. After BS'ing for a bit I had it loaded up and was off. Gotta love the good Christian discount.



Oily mess. Rear main had failed, (National Seal) The pilot bearing was nonexistent. Whoever did the last clutch job should be slapped in the mouth.


Front main seal on the trans was shot as well.


All cleaned up and parts swapped over. I got a lot of the small parts from Marlin. I appreciate their fast shipping. I got clips boots bolts. I figured I'd replace most of the bits and pieces.



I picked up a NOK factory Rear Main from 22RE performance in Chico along with a new housing gasket. I added Toyota FIPG to the Pan side and Hi Tach to the gasket.


Kevin also surfaced the flywheel. He does them for the local Toyota dealers as well.




Gotta love Rock Auto. We'll see if the Aisin Clutch was a bad idea.


I also picked up a spare case when I bought the 4Runner so I figured I'd run a doubler.


Marlin has been out of stock for awhile, so I picked up an Advanced Adapters 21 Spline doubler from Summit for $332 shipped.
 

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680 Posts
Thanks for posting. Hope it gets 35s because they will fit fine. The bit of clearance will help with the 63s
 

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ROKRAPR
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1,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I decided to run a 1" Body Lift to help with fitting the dual cases and 33's. I picked up from 4Crawler, as he is pretty local, the Body Lift as well as new Prothane Body Mounts. I'm glad I did as the factory mounts were barely holding together.



To clear the T-Case shifters and to help with the Body Lift, I went with an LC Engineering Short Shifter kit. It seems pretty solid. The Marlin Shifter looks pretty sweet, so I'll see how the LCE holds up.



I don't have any great pics of it, but I decided to go with RAD Designs Triple Shifter. Seems pretty damn solid and shifts smoothly. I bent the factory T-Case shifter in my press till it was at the angle I wanted. No pics of that either.

These are before bending the shifter.




I had a fitment issue with the AA adapter and the factory case. You guys helped me out in another thread. The Input was contacting the adapters coupler. I used a sanding drum to chamfer the coupler and everything fit together.





All bolted up. I added Triple Drilled Flanges so I have more options for spare driveshafts.


All ready to roll under.


Went right in.




Pretty much up to present. I still need to mount the Skid Plate and see if the shifters clear the body. If I can get it all back together by Monday I'll take the rear driveshaft down to South Bay Driveline and get it shortened.
 

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ROKRAPR
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1,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for posting. Hope it gets 35s because they will fit fine. The bit of clearance will help with the 63s
Thanks, I was looking at the Toyo MT 33x10.50r15's. The are fawking expensive, but they measure about as tall as most 35" AT's yet not as wide.
 

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Premium Member
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29,255 Posts
nice, should make for one hell of an overlanding rig :smokin:

snag up some high and tight door protection and bumpers and get to denting, if it really is too clean to cut up, buy a beat one and sell this one for $15k or some other crazy ebay figure with it all stock.

I don't think the kids say expo rig these days :flipoff2:
 

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ROKRAPR
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1,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
nice, should make for one hell of an overlanding rig :smokin:

snag up some high and tight door protection and bumpers and get to denting, if it really is too clean to cut up, buy a beat one and sell this one for $15k or some other crazy ebay figure with it all stock.

I don't think the kids say expo rig these days :flipoff2:
Good point, first post edited to include “overlanding”

I think with the right buyer the Runner fixed up is probably worth about 8k. I got it for $4,100 and it was exactly what I was looking for, 10/10 body, interior and frame and 3/10 drivetrain.

I picked up some new still in the box Trail-Gear rock sliders for pretty cheap off craigslist, and I just received the CBI DIY front bumper I ordered. Luckily they had one in stock otherwise they are months out on new orders. I plan to build a rear bumper/ tire mount.

Here is what the bumper should look like, I'm going to change it around a bit. For now it's still in the box.
 

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The cbi bumper is great for DD wheeler. I got one on my 4runner, ended up with two sets of plates that I just could not figure out where they got. Post up if you use all the pieces, would be nice figure out where the ones I didn't use go.
 

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ROKRAPR
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1,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
@Rubirunner85 Looks like you were able to keep the body pretty straight. Mine barely pulls 31's on 4.10's I can't imagine 37's and 5.29's being much better :( I'll have to see how the IFS hangs with smaller tires.

Mmm 3RZ :rolleyes:

Goal is to be able to get to Buck and back with the family. For now I'll keep the Juggy for Fordyce and the hard lines. But down the road I can see an SAS...
 

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I haven’t wrecked it yet. It’s an 85 so no ifs. I’ve been wheelin this for 10 years and the big dents are from rubicon when I was still new to picking lines. I have a 4.3 vortec that helps get me up hills. My buddy has a 22r with 5.37s and he doesn’t have a problem. Gas consumption is similar between the two. He plans to swap a 3rz next year.
 

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Ford Bigot
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4,098 Posts
[MENTION=777769]
Mmm 3RZ :rolleyes:

Goal is to be able to get to Buck and back with the family. For now I'll keep the Juggy for Fordyce and the hard lines. But down the road I can see an SAS...

I know a guy with 3RZ he'd probably sell to you. He's kind of mean.
 

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ROKRAPR
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1,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I almost got it back together yesterday.

I picked up some Anchor trans mounts from Rock Auto for $17 each, and I painted the Trail-Gear Crossmember with some Duplicolor Kevlar spray bedliner stuff. It has Kevlar in it so you know it's legit.


Went together way too easy, I expected to fight to get it in.


A little trimming was needed to fit the triple shifters. By the time I get them fully adjusted I may do more trimming. 1" Body Lift is about the minimum I think you need to clear the RAD Designs kit.


Found some bad kinked wires while reinstalling the trans.


I used some heat shrink water proof butt connectors I got awhile ago off Amazon.


Probably overkill...


I've been using Loctite Dielectric Grease on all connectors. Makes them much easier to connect and take apart, and should keep water out.


I'm off to Pick-N-Pull to hunt for some 63's
 

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While you are there grab a dual diaphragm brake boster, I just did it on mine and I can’t believe I waited so long to do it. Second gen runners, and it was $23.

Looks like this, and it fits. Bolt on.

 

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A little trimming was needed to fit the triple shifters. By the time I get them fully adjusted I may do more trimming. 1" Body Lift is about the minimum I think you need to clear the RAD Designs kit.
I put my Raddesigns shifter together with the heims on the inside of the arms. Its tight but it all fits and shifts fine. This allowed more clearance with the body tub, so no body lift needed, at least on a later 2nd gen runner. Just a thought.

Kevin
 

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ROKRAPR
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1,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
While you are there grab a dual diaphragm brake boster, I just did it on mine and I can’t believe I waited so long to do it. Second gen runners, and it was $23.

Looks like this, and it fits. Bolt on.
Nice, once I get this thing back on the road brakes will come at the same time I swap the 63's in and get the rear torn apart for rebuild and gears. I figure I'll ditch the LSPV as well.

I put my Raddesigns shifter together with the heims on the inside of the arms. Its tight but it all fits and shifts fine. This allowed more clearance with the body tub, so no body lift needed, at least on a later 2nd gen runner. Just a thought.

Kevin
I don't know why I never thought to try them on the inside :rolleyes:
 

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ROKRAPR
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1,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I dropped off my drive shafts with South Bay Driveline. Steve is going to swap the CV from the front to the rear and re tube both with .095. Also, swap in some factory U-Joints as it now has shitty aftermarket Joints installed.

Rear is 39 1/4" and front is 32 1/4" I asked him to make it a long 39" as I figure the 63's will raise it about 2" over where it is at now. Looking at my current leaf pack it looks like there is an add a leaf.

I also hit up Pic-N-Pull and grabbed a set of 63's. Seemed pretty expensive $95 after tax and Core charge.

You know your at Pick-N-Pull when you can't tell the difference between the parking lot at the yard, and they don't bother to even post signs in English.

Someone had already removed one of the bolts so I picked this 92' GMC 4x4.


Glad I brought the Impact. I was in and out in 20min.


Bushings look a little cracked.


This guy gets it.
 
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