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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is my 1uz swap into my 4runner.

Frist,My turbo diesel build http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/847890-mercrunner-build-up.html So you know where I am starting from.

I realized after being told by a few people that my 4runner with 1tons and 42's was going to be lacking power, well they were right.

I ripped out the old diesel and got to work on the new setup.

Specs:
93 sc400 1uz without traction control
2000 Tacoma R150f
Southbend 3SGTE stage 2 OFE clutch
1uzswapkit.com adapter for R154
Modified 3vz flywheel from 1uzfeswapkit.com
TG R150f gear t-case adapter
Stock duals with 23 spline stuff and longfield output
Remove the FJ60 steering box and replace with a IFS box
Long Range Off Road 2lt aluminum radiator
and the rest is the same

Engine is in, runs, ecu in the glove box, and mostly put back together.

I'll give more details later.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So the first problem I encountered the stock clutch master was too small. I replaced the master with a 1984 FJ60 3/4" bore master, which is the same size as the master paired to the slave in the kit. The slave in the kit is from a 04 Pontiac GTO.

After I replaced the master cylinder, I found out the slave was too far from the pressure plate the hard way. Fluid puked out of the bell housing :shaking: So I pulled the trans, cleaned the clutch and pressure plate, took some measurements and figured out why the slave over extended. Along with that, the clutch wouldn't disengage.

The GTO slave can compress 23 mm, and after taking my measurements determined the slave was only compressed 12 mm. I called the guy that makes the kit on a Saturday and he said that he would send me a spacer on Monday. Thursday I call and he says he sent it out wed and wont get it until next wed. :mad3:

The house I was in is up for sale and I had to move my crap and truck out so I made a 9mm spacer and put everything back together thinking that was solve the problem....... Wrong!

I put the trans back on and still the clutch wouldn't disengage. Start it in gear with the clutch pressed to the floor and it would creep. Let the clutch out and it engages at the top of the pedal like it should. Next I adjust the pedal stop out all the way, re-adjust the master and still the same thing.

I call Southbend Clutch and they say the pressure plate is probably being over extended and engaging the clutch. So I start the 4runner and slowly depress the pedal while trying to put the trans in 1st. No go.

Now I'm at a loss. All the hydraulics are new, but the symptoms appear to be hydraulic. I am a using genuine GM slave and a new asin clutch master.

The one thing I am curious about is the kit comes with -4 AN lines to the slave. The 4runner uses a 4.75mm line for the slave and I think the GTO uses the same size. Could the line size be limiting the throw of the slave?

Any other thoughts on what could be wrong?

Also, the 3vz and 3sgte have the same step size and diameter on the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's it? WEAK!

More tech please. How was it wired?

Seriously, how long has it been in? Any issues with these motor mounts holding up?


Trying to decided whether to double sheer mine CHevy style or build what you have here.
Toyminator2000 had his on its side and many trails with a similar mount style with no problems. I am trying to post this in between classes right now. Plus I can't drive it around so I don't know how well it runs on the road right now. :p
 

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Mine is going into a Ultra4 spec car. I'm think about adding a cradle on top to hold the motor in place in case I have a bolt failure. Something like a wing on each side to hold the mount in place.
Why not just make yours using poly bushings? You can still add those wings on each side in case of a bolt failure.

Looking good. You're gonna love that motor in your runner:D
 

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I've recently had a clutch problem with my swap, one trail trip and one race and I rip the rivets off the clutch. So I talk to clutch masters, get a better clutch and put everything back together. Everything is basically the same as before, but this time it won't disengage. So after taking it out and back in a few times and figuring out that the throw of the slave wasn't the problem I went to my last effort/ desperate try. I got a breaker bar and socket and held the front output while my dad turned the engine over(ignition off). Tada everything is now fine. Not sure if thsplines were off or the disc was just jammed in there, but it worked. It's worth a shot. I used the KS racing bellhousing by the way
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've recently had a clutch problem with my swap, one trail trip and one race and I rip the rivets off the clutch. So I talk to clutch masters, get a better clutch and put everything back together. Everything is basically the same as before, but this time it won't disengage. So after taking it out and back in a few times and figuring out that the throw of the slave wasn't the problem I went to my last effort/ desperate try. I got a breaker bar and socket and held the front output while my dad turned the engine over(ignition off). Tada everything is now fine. Not sure if thsplines were off or the disc was just jammed in there, but it worked. It's worth a shot. I used the KS racing bellhousing by the way
Hmmm. My cousin said I should just go drive it around a little and see if it was just the disk dragging on the flywheel. It would seem like I have plenty of throw on the slave, but who knows. I would really like to not pull the trans again. Also thinking of borrowing my cousins borescope and sticking it into the bell to take a look at the setup.

For the wiring, I will do a detailed writeup. For now I just have 4 power wires; one batt to the ecu, one ing power on to the ecu, and two main power wires on a separate relay. I had to make my own starter relay and will be using a sc400 cluster and harness for the gauges. It runs pretty good even with the maf disconnected from the intake tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update! It works, finally!!!!

I pulled the trans again and found out the center post the tob rides on and the clutch disk hub were making love. :shaking: Guess my spacer was too big.

Anyway, I installed the new adapter plate that has the TOB spaced 6mm further towards the flywheel and put that shit back in. I had to wait until this morning to test it out. It works great now. :bounce2:

If anyone is considering the R-series kit from Toyotav8.com aka 1uzfeswapkit.com be sure to tell him you want the revised adapter that places the TOB 6mm further out. This kit only works with the longer input of the tacoma R-150f as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Couple more of it installed again.
 

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Boss :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thanks guys.

Got a little quality time with the 4runner this weekend and got a SC400 instrument cluster hooked up. The wiring looks daunting, but it was actually pretty straight forward once I got the part of harness I wanted stripped from the rest.

I labeled all the wires for both of the clusters and used the attached document below to help keep track of what wires I had to spice into the 4runner harness. If anyone else uses this, double check the 4runner/pickup cluster wire numbers. The digital cluster I had was different than the sr5 which I believe is what the doc references. I used the ECT Power light for the 4wd and will find an old cluster to cut the 4wd emblem from. I also used the rear light failure warning for the back door unlocked light.

On the SC400 harness, about half of the cluster wires ended up being spliced into my 4runner. Most of the engine vitals are straight wires from the cluster to the engine and just had to be weeded through. Most of the wires that I cut ended up either being spliced into the 4runner or just not used. I think it was only two wires I had to solder together, but they were for the diagnostic port for the interior that I kept too.

I still have to mount the cluster, glue a piece of Lexan onto the dash to cover the cluster, and pull the rest of the dash so I can run the harness to the engine plugs on the passenger side.

Lexus SC400 gauge cluster in my 4runner. - YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Turbo 4runner instrument cluster pinout

I needed this info because the 85 manual doesn't have the digital cluster in it. I found this in the interweb and it was pretty accurate.

Turbo 4runner instrument cluster pinout

I don't know what year your cluster is, but here is the wiring info for my 86 4Runner with a Digital Cluster.
Looking at the back of your cluster the plugs are "A" Top Left, "B" far right top, "C" Center top and "D" Mid Left.
Pin #1 of each is far right for single row connectors or far right top for double rows connectors looking
at the back of the Cluster

A-1 Right Turn Signal Green/Yellow, A-2 High Beam Indicator Red/Green, A-3 A/T oil Temp Red/Yellow
A-4 Back Door Warning Green/Red, A-5 Charge light Yellow/White, A-6 Dash Illumination from Tail Fuse Green
A-7 Fr. 7.5 A Ign fuse Black/Yellow, A-8 Brake warning light Green/White, A-9 Check Engine Violet
A-10 Fr. 15 A Engine Fuse Yellow.

B-1 4 wd. indicator Lt Green, B-2 & 3 empty, B-4 Seat Belt Warning Green, B-5 Illumination Reostat Red/Black,
B-6 Warning, indication lights ground White/Black, B-7 empty, B-8 Left turn signal Green/Black.

C-1 Fr. 15 A Engine fuse Yellow, C-2 To engine ground White/Black, C-3 & 4 empty, C-5 Fuel Sender Term 1 Yellow/Red,
C-6 From Ign Switch Start Pos Black, C-7 Water Temp Sender Yellow/Green, C-8 Light Control Reostat, C-9 Igniter Black,
C-10 Fuel Sender Term 2 Green/Blue, C-11 Fuel Sender Term 3 Yellow/Green, C-12 Speed Sensor Green/Blue,
C-13 empty, C-14 Ect select Sw "Norm" Black/Yellow, C-15 Ect select Sw. "Pwr" Green/Orange, C-16 empty,
C-17 Light Control Reostat.

D-1 Oil pressure Sender Yellow/Black, D-2 empty, D-3 Turbo Pressure Sensor Yellow/White,
D-4 Turbo Pressure Sensor Yellow/Black, D-5 Turbo Pressure Sensor Brown/Black.

From the digital Cluster section of the FSM, it states that,
C-8 and C-17, both go to the Light control reostat, but I haven't found those connections on any
of the wiring diagrams.
It also states that C-14 is ECT Pwr and C-15 is Ect Norm, but actual wiring diagrams don't back this up, according to the diagrams
C-14 is Ect Norm and C-15 is Ect Pwr.*



How do you post a pdf on here?
 

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Dude! Looking great!! I think I may end up following suit...someday. :rolleyes: You're gonna have to come for an extended visit to help me get it done! Missing you guys tons!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Dude! Looking great!! I think I may end up following suit...someday. :rolleyes: You're gonna have to come for an extended visit to help me get it done! Missing you guys tons!!!
Thanks!

That would be a great trip, but Amy would probably give me shit for a while for it. Just keep an eye out for a donor car, proabably the easiest way to do it.
 

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What do you mean?!? Amy has to come too! Besides, someone's gotta keep Lesley off my back so that we can actually get the job done! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What do you mean?!? Amy has to come too! Besides, someone's gotta keep Lesley off my back so that we can actually get the job done! ;)
Lol! I'm down! :D

We were talking about making a trip on the west coast possibly in the summer. Lots of people to see in comifornia and Hawaiian Air has some great specials often.
 
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