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I have done one. In a nut shell I just cut the spindles off of a rear 30spl d60 (80' dodge i think), chucked up the spindles in a lathe, cleaned em up. Bored the center to fit a 35spline shaft. Chopped the ends of the 9"off. I drilled the hubs for 8x170mm to accept late model ford super duty disc brakes in order to match the front 9". Welded it all together. Made a caliper bracket. Then ordered custom length yukon axles from randys.

fyi-I'm a "certified" welder and have access to manual mills and lathes

All in all it took a ton of time and I spent way more money than I thought I would.
For me it was more of a personal challenge, because I had never done something like that before.

The price of that kit is low enough I would go that route. Or get pick up a junk yard rear thats all ready ff




I don't mean to sound like a dick. I just want to make sure you know your making a big commitment, and also you must be confident enough in your skills, before you get to serious.

If your really sure you want detailed info with photos. You may be able to persuade me to get a red star. I have a tube eb build that I think would be well excepted here.
 

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I have done one. In a nut shell I just cut the spindles off of a rear 30spl d60 (80' dodge i think), chucked up the spindles in a lathe, cleaned em up. Bored the center to fit a 35spline shaft. Chopped the ends of the 9"off. I drilled the hubs for 8x170mm to accept late model ford super duty disc brakes in order to match the front 9". Welded it all together. Made a caliper bracket. Then ordered custom length yukon axles from randys.

fyi-I'm a "certified" welder and have access to manual mills and lathes

All in all it took a ton of time and I spent way more money than I thought I would.
For me it was more of a personal challenge, because I had never done something like that before.

The price of that kit is low enough I would go that route. Or get pick up a junk yard rear thats all ready ff




I don't mean to sound like a dick. I just want to make sure you know your making a big commitment, and also you must be confident enough in your skills, before you get to serious.

If your really sure you want detailed info with photos. You may be able to persuade me to get a red star. I have a tube eb build that I think would be well excepted here.
i have no personal experience with the conversion, but you hit on some key points i was thinking about before posting. one you didn't mention that is sticking out to me is what benefit will you get out of converting a 9'' to ff besides retaining a bolt pattern and keeping a tire from falling off when you bust an axle? which to me seems like a silly way to piss away money to patch a problem like needing to upgrade to 1 tons because you've obviously outgrown the limits of 1/2 tons. i just can't see dicking around with 9'' axles nowadays because if they aren't cutting it how is the d44(assuming it's a d44) front keeping up without issues?
 

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^agreed^

I've witnessed a stock 9" rear 3rd member shoot the pinion out like 8ft. Dude was running 33's on an f150. Granted he was way over doing the "never lift" thing, but an after maket 3rd is a must. I went tru-hi9s on mine, running 39" krawlers in the red flavor
 

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Anyone done a full float to their 9"? If so what components did you use, and do you know of any write ups?

I found this kit: http://www.9inchfloater.com/RrEndKits/RrEndKits_28_31.htm
I dont see it listed on that page, but most likely wont find a "truck/4x4" bolt pattern from them or others like them, as most are for roundy round applications that use car type bolt patterns. probly limited to 31 spline as well.

I did one years ago for the same reasons listed by willis82.. I used a bunch of uber expensive desert racing parts I had laying around, and ended up with a 40 spline, big brake, expensive 9" that I cant buy parts for at NAPA.(at least not conveniently)

It worked, and I have too much money into it to not use it.. but for what I do, I wouldn't go that route again. It needs some love before it goes into the next rig.. the thin 9" housing has taken too much abuse.. If it doesn't come back to life as a D60, I'll probly buy a housing from RuffStuff. I plan to use it in a swb CJ5 and the Hi9 (that I already own) is kinda needed.. but I want a Detroit instead of the current spool.. but I haven't looked into the feasibility of 40spl.. downgrading to 35spl is doable, but adds to the cost as I would need new shafts and drive plates too.
 

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Branik machine also has some cool weld on adapters that use a chevy front spindle. Alot of companies are making weld on splindles for aftermarket housings. If you are going to the trouble I'd reccomend using a good housing as well.

Just FYI: the axleshaft can be made much stronger if it has no flange. Like a double spline. So you remove the side loading of the wheel being bolted to the axle and gain a stronger axle shaft. Of course all of that will way outlast a stock 3rd...
Jake
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah, I actually had lots of 1 tons and I'm selling off all my parts because I lost my job and my garage. That situation is temporary. So while I have all this time on my hands I'm wheeling a 78 F150 on 35's and I'm sticking with the 1/2 tons, and I have another set of them as spares. I started looking up some parts (like I said, time on my hands) and for about $750 I can make the 44 as strong as those 60's I sold off with full chromoly inners. And from moving them around my house I know how much lighter a 44 is. And the 15x12" wheels I have are 5 lug. So I was thinking, well, looks like I can make a 44 strong enough for less than a stock 60, so now lets figure out the rear. And the biggest problem with the 9" that I can't solve for cheap is that a broken axle will leave me stranded out in the middle of nowhere. I still have 2 dana 70's laying around the house but they are hard to get parts for, heavy, need the spring pads rewelded, and don't have the right gear ratio. So for the money I'd put into getting them regeared and the effort of grinding off spring pads and reweldeding, it seems like I could get after market axles and get more strength... and a ff kit would be icing on the cake. Its nothing I'm going to jump into. for now, nothing is broken. But I know I will eventually.
 

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X2 on branik

I did one through currie back in 1985-I had them weld a flange on that accepted toyota mini spindles so I could run full float and have all 4 wheels use the same parts including brakes. I bolted up a complete set of spindles through calipers to my tire rack for spare parts. That of course was when 31 spline was the s**t. Ya I am that old!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
branik's stuff is significantly more expensive and set up to use more expensive dana 60 front end parts, which also makes it 8 lug. Not what I'm looking for.
 

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The cost by FAR out do the advantages. IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Maybe, but what do you propose as a better solution?
 

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I've seen pics posted here of 14 bolt hubs reworked for 5 lug duty, would work OK for either a FF 9" or simply shave the 14 bolt and run it.

I've seen some 35 spline 9" semi float shafts beat on pretty hard without issue, IIRC I had just over 500$ into 35 spline shafts and a small bearing spool.

Budget option would be to buy decent aftermarket shafts in 31 spline and carry the stockers as spares, couple hundred and your good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah but I'm not clever with all that engineering stuff... I don't have access to CNC parts. And no pictures of a completed axle. Just pictures of an axle with 300 lbs of diamondplate welded everywhere with no regard to stress points. Maybe not a good project to follow.
 

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Why not just call Moser and buy a floater housing for like 550 bucks, by the time you do everything to a stock axle you are going to be in alot more, and have something you will need custom parts for, I doubt Moser is going out of business any time soon. And this axle is using all brand new parts, nothing old and questionable...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hmm? I had checked there earlier and they were looking for $1300 for a full floating housing. I didn't see a cheaper one. Certainly nothing that cheap.
 

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call branik and see if he will sell just the housing end that welds on and you bolt up spindles. He has one for the ford which should let you use the TTB50 stuff to save $$.
 
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