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Discussion Starter #1
I am wanting to use 60 rear ff hubs on a 9" rear and still retain 5.5" wheels with a center bore of 4.125"+- can this be done? Hate to have to buy all new BL wheels:(

Cary
 

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Yes, but it's probably a lot cheaper to just buy wheels
 

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Yes, but it's probably a lot cheaper to just buy wheels
X2


I've seen way too many people try to make something custom work just to save a few dollars.... If you have to buy new rims, that is almost always the cheaper option.
 

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Shave a Dana 60 or Dana 70 & run 8 lug front & rear, way cheaper in the long run.


But if you realy have to have a full floating 5 lug 9", get the spindles through Ploy Performance ( http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=16396 ) & the 5 lug kit can be bought through GEARTECH Heavy Duty ( http://www.geartechhd.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=2&pos=0 ). You can buy custom axles through Moser Engineering ( http://www.moserengineering.com/Pages/Axles/floaters.html ) or Dutchman Motorsports ( http://www.dutchmanms.com/4_axles.html ) for full floaters. You will also have to make the flange for the caliper brackets used in the GEARTECH 5 lug kit, or put some weld on caliper brackets on the 9" housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe I should have said I will be useing a Hi9's and a Spydertrax houseing front and rear...the d70 outers sounds like a good plan..thanks.
BroncoII...Thanks just the info I needed!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I owe ya 1

Cary
 

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you could use sterling outers too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Any benifits to a sterling outers vrs others...strength or cost ? Brake options better one way?

Cary
 

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Don't know if the parts are going to be cheaper, but odds are the axle you take them from will be in a little better shape from a maintenance stand point beause sterlings are a newer axle (mid 80's to new), factory discs (although they are metric but i've hearde of people redrilling the rotors and using the older standard 6.5" hubs), and how often do you hear of poeple breaking a sterling axle, as after all, all them big power powerstrokes (well most anyway depending on the truck's setup) are running them in the rear.

they do have a better seal on the end of the axle shaft (o-ring vs. a gasket) and if you go with drum, the drums are outboard of the hub vs. inboard as with dana axles. those are really the only major differences/benefits over a dana 70 as they are very similar in size and strength.
 

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Diamond axle sells a flange that welds on the housing tube then you use standard front 60 spindles and bearing hubs. Then you can carry one spindle & hub assembly for a spare since all 4 would be the same.

I think this is the route I am going for a floater 35 spline 9". I will probably make the weld on flanges myself though & use junk yard spindles.
 

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Diamond axle sells a flange that welds on the housing tube then you use standard front 60 spindles and bearing hubs. Then you can carry one spindle & hub assembly for a spare since all 4 would be the same.

I think this is the route I am going for a floater 35 spline 9". I will probably make the weld on flanges myself though & use junk yard spindles.
Those are pretty cool, especially if you flat tow your rig. But they said on the Diamond web page "These ends are only available installed on our housings". I don't see why someone with a lathe can't make the axle end flanges & the axle end alignment blocks to weld them onto a rear end housing to use Dana 60 front spindles. That's how the 9" full floater kit in the article ( http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/ff9/ ) was done. You'll also need custom axles made with splines at both ends & a smooth surface for the axle seal. But you still have to get all parts to make it a 5 or 6 lug Dana 60 if you don't want a 8 lug.
 

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Why do you feel the need to be full floater? Is your junk really that heavy?
Many, many of us use 9 inch outters (even on 60's) and keep the semi floater.
 

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Why do you feel the need to be full floater? Is your junk really that heavy?
Many, many of us use 9 inch outters (even on 60's) and keep the semi floater.
Good point, if your building a lighter buggy/rig why not run semi floater ends. Tons of people do it, even on bling bling axles.

BigWoody beats the crap out of his LS1 buggy, tru high nine rear with Red label Krawlers. His semi float shafts have held up fine, they are even Mosers. The Lovell Brothers rock race with semi float nines, they run Currie stock style big bearing housing ends, they arent even using the 4140 Strange ends. I am actually torn on which route to go. I have the 42's at home. Not sure how light my rig will be. I am shooting for 3500lbs. So a semi float set up will work.

On the other hand The Websters run a FF 9" Diamond axle, with CTM shafts. I asked Dustin in a thread one time why they didnt run 40 spline. He said they never considered it since they have never had an issue with 35 spline stuff. They beat their equipment too.

Guess it comes down to personal preference. The semi float sure is easy to set up. Parts are affordable and the shafts have a 2-3 day turn around.

The extra expense of the FF adds up quick. You need to make housing ends to accept spindles. You need to buy spindles($200 used?), bearing hubs(5 lug$400 new?), Wheel bearings($100), Seals($30), drive flanges ($250), custom FF shafts($$500???? just a guess for 4340).

Semi float- Housing ends($70), Strange axle kit including retainers, bearings, shafts(35 spline), & wheel studs (~$650). The Strange price is off, I just bought custom 31 spline shafts and they were $400 for the set, they they are the induction hardened shafts. They HyTuf thru hardened shafts are the 650.

*All prices are guesstimations*

Thats $720 vs. $1480. Hell I guess I just convinced myself to stick with a semi float, especially since I already have a jig.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The reason I am looking at a FF is my EB weighs in at 5300 empty..once its loaded up its way over 6k lbs which i would belive is over the big bearing limit? I also like to over kill everything as its easyer to build it once than keep upgrading as ya break it:grinpimp:

I don't want lockouts in the rear ...one more thing to break!

The more I learn.....maybe I'll just sell the Monster BL and get new ones and go 8 lug. Once benifit would be that I could swap wheels and tires between the 95 and the crawler EB thats already running 8 lugs.

Cary

Cary
 

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The reason I am looking at a FF is my EB weighs in at 5300 empty..once its loaded up its way over 6k lbs which i would belive is over the big bearing limit? I also like to over kill everything as its easyer to build it once than keep upgrading as ya break it:grinpimp:

I don't want lockouts in the rear ...one more thing to break!

The more I learn.....maybe I'll just sell the Monster BL and get new ones and go 8 lug. Once benifit would be that I could swap wheels and tires between the 95 and the crawler EB thats already running 8 lugs.

Cary

Cary
Do a few sit ups :p
I was 5200 loaded, and now a little lighter, are you sure you are going to push the 6k range?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
2 guys, ARB fridge, 10 gals extra fuel, 5gal water, spare parts, gear etc...should push it to 6k.

Cary
 

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stock 70's ford f-150's 4x4s are that weight with full tanks of fuel and two people in there. I know of several people that imud bog with running 70's fords with 9" rears with big tires and big power, they never actually broke a shaft due to the axle being a semi float, usually broke them because something in the front would let go (u-joint, shaft, ring and pinion of a d44) and the resulting 500+hp getting sent to the rear with 44" tsl's would usually blow the rear 9 to pieces. I think that you would be just as well off to go with a 35spl 9" as well.
 
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