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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I looked around at some posts on the 5.0 swap but I just want your opinions on this swap and any other needed parts. Ok I have a hook up on a 91 crown vic 5.0 with all the stuff. I am going to put it in my 77 EB. Right now it has a 302, c4 and dana 20. Will this new 5.0 bolt up to the c4 or do I need a new flywheel and flexplate and all that jazz. Also any ideas good and bad on the 91 crown vic 5.0 Thanks alot guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The guy says he is giving me the fuel pump also off of the car. That one should work right? I was wondering about the stearing changes that may need to be made to. Anybody have ideas on that. Also what flywheal should I be looking for?
 

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Also what flywheal should I be looking for?
It's a flex plate! Not a flywheel. Get one from a Mustang or that Crown if it had an AOD tranny. The AOD HAS THE CORRECT flex plate for a C-4.

The torque converter on the other hand, should be a custom unit to work properly with the power band of the 5.0 cam. You can get by with the stock C-4 torque converter but you won't realize the true power of that 5.0, because the stall speed built into the C-4 TC is too low. I called Art Carr to get the stall numbers for the stock C-4 EB, it was 1800 rpm. The stall on the AOD from a 'Stang is 2000 rpm; they sugested a custom unit with a stall speed of 2000-2200 rpm for everything to work and feel right with my set up (see sig line).

THT
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
GOt it, so I could get buy with the tourque converter, but should have a custom one. What's that gonna run if you don't mind me asking? Snag the flexplate out of the crown vic. I am going to need a fuel pump, I would asume external one. Any ideas on what would be the way to go on that? Thanks again!
 

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find a 80 truck fuel pump and accumulater thats mounted on the frame rail. I have it on mine and it works great. It is all in a nice package that mounts easily to your frame. I dont have a 2nd pump near the tank and it seems to work just fine with just the one.
the nice thing is the return line runs into the accumulater and feeds fuel on off camber sits. It should also work fine with the pupm relay on that harness.

was easy and cheap, and they are plentiful in the bone yards!
 

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I swapped a 5.0 of this vintage in my '75 C4 auto this year. Here's a good place to start:

http://www.bronco.com/technical/upgrades/EFI_swap.shtml

I used a seperate high and low pressure electric fuel pump recommended by the above link (PNs there). You will need a new flexplate. Your starter will work fine. Some C4s (like mine) had an oddball converter pattern, so I had to swap mine to get it to bolt up (went with a lower stall for off road hookup--not concerned with street performance). My converter was all of $38 through a friend at the tranny shop.

A lot of people use the low/hi pressure pump setup because the high pressure units usually aren't designed to pick up and draw gas up out of the tank (why they're usually mounted in the tank). The low pressure sucks it up and feeds the high pressure unit. There's also a cool fuel accumulater setup you can build yourself from diesel truck stuff (check www.bcbroncos.com, http://classicbroncos.com/efi.shtml). I put my high pressure pump on the frame rail and man is it loud. The best setup would be to mount the high pressure pump in the tank. A lot of people fear to go there, but I would like to do this to mine in the future. I wanted to keep things simple for the initial swap, so I didn't have too many variables to keep track of.

You also will need to plumb a new high pressure fuel line, and probably redo the return line while you're at it. The 5.0 should use a reverse rotation fan, opposite the Bronco's. Your radiator will also have the inlet/outlets on the wrong side. I bought a Griffin aluminum NASCAR radiator from Summit (2 row, 1" tubes) that fit dimensionally for $190. I asked for a lower radiator hose for the donor car, trimmed it, and found a formed upper hose that worked and looked factory (PN somewhere...). My radiator was a little tight in the stock location, since it is thicker than the stocker, so I will ultimately modify the core, push the radiator closer to the grill, and add hood pins (latch deleted). As of now, I only have about 1/2" fan clearance (I know--sacrilege) with a Flexalite 1517 fan and a 1.75" spacer. I could go with a slightly shorter spacer, but I will alleviate the problem by relocating the radiator. The 1517 is about $40, but I would rather have a rigid mechanical or a nice T-stat controlled electric unit ($ in future).

Your passenger side manifold will dump right into the framerail. You can cut and miter the exhaust pipe to work, get custom headers, or snag a set of Mustang shorties for cheap on E-bay, cut and modify the collector. The stock double sump oil pan should work great, just down a little on capacity. Add new motor mounts for cheap while you're in there.

If you don't have a body lift, you may have some hood interference (my problem/half-assed solution http://www.getbent.4t.com/photo5.html). The stock pump from the donor car worked with my PS lines (after some massaging), but I had adapted the factory HP line with a fitting to work with a Saginaw pump. The stock pumped worked fine, but roasted on a trail after letting some friend's extract it from a stuck while at the emergency room (bent tie rod into axle, roasted pump trying to turn). I modifies the donor PS bracket to accept a Saginaw pump stolen from a 2.8 S-10 V6, and used the same pulley, turned backwards. Yup, when the pump fails the pulley will have to be cut off because you can't get a puller on it. Had to do this to get the right offset to make it work with the serp belt drive. It was broke, I was broke, and stranded.

Modify a junkyard Ford throttle cable to fit your EB's pedal (http://www.getbent.4t.com/photo5.html), make yourself a cheap cold air intake (Fram 6543 works good, off the shelf, cheap). I still haven't reconnected a kickdown cable, but Lokar makes a retarded simple kit for about $50, Summit.

Then there's the wiring. Actually pretty easy, once you're done and reflecting back.

There are other minor issues you'll encounter, but this is the stuff that comes to my mind after my swap. I'll be happy to answer any Q's I can. Subscribe to the EBML and you'll find literally hundreds of people online who have done it in recent memory.

Toodles,
Garner
 

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The quote I got from Art Carr was $189 for a custom TC.


I do drive mine on the street from time to time and I also hit the ocasional mud drags for the hell of it, so the proper stall speed is important to me. But my primary trail riding is rock crawling, and as far as crawling goes, the stock EB TC will work just fine.

I also love racing the import kids on the street....... 4wd and lockers is almost unfair:flipoff2:
 

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I'm what you call...cheap

I drive mine on the street, everyday. It's a daily driver. I have a non HO 5.0 from an unknown donor (I believe a T-Bird). I went low budget to replace my tired wheezer 302. I've never tried to squeeze much extra performance from the locked, lifted beast. I'm just glad to have it running predictably. The EFI makes it much better for 10 degree starts and off camber trail performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yea I am in the same boat. Cheap. I may run the TC that is in the C4 for now. I will have to try to swipe the flexplate out of the AOD in the car. I just want to get it in there and running. Thanks again. If anybody has anything else I a happy to hear it. Thanks
 

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As for the radiator, probably no. If you can get ahold of it, by all means try. My suspiscion is that it is way too wide. Without a body lift, to fit a decent radiator on the EB it had to fit between the framerails. This is tight. You'll notice the stock radiator tapers down at the bottom. I guess (without actually looking) a short, wide radiator may work with support mods, but probably not your best bet. Some people have new inlets brazed onto their existing radiators, and I have seen people use a bent piece of steel tubing to route the hoses to keep the pricy custom radiators they had to start with. My exisitng radiator was junk and I have a custom tubular radiator core support, so the Griffin radiator was a good choice for me at $189.

After looking at this pic, I think your battery and steering gear would keep you from using a wider radiator:

http://getbent.4t.com/images/tubecore2.jpg
 

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I'd reuse your torque converter, unless it has a billion miles on it or you are made of money. If you're really bent on realizing 100% of a Mustang's performance from your 5.0 you probably shouldn't start by swapping it into a big old early Bronco. Stock works, even if less sexy than high zoot perf stuff. You will be happy with the EFI swap, though. Much better throttle response and seamless acceleration compared to my old carb. I didn't notice much difference in mileage, but my motor is still breaking in and I only check the MPG on highway jaunts with about 3000 rpm. If you had the money to shell out for an adaptor and the AOD was available/free it could be a consideration, if you cared about highway cruising.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yea I think I will reuse the Torque Converter. The c-4 I have is good to go right now and dosn't have alot of miles on it. I'm not looking to get a mustang feel out of it by any means. I just want the power I have now with my 302, but with the reliability, and the ability to run it at high angles that I get out of the fuel injection. I need a new motor anyways cause the valve seals are going out on mine and who knows what else. This is going to be a learning expiriance (sp?) for me. Should be fun.
 
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