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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
thought i would jump on the build thread band wagon, feel free to ask questions or share your thoughts, i would appreciate the ideas. p.s sorry if im talking in mm or metres i will do my best to remember to convert to inches for you guys :D

so im building a single cab hilux, as we call them here, to compete in competitions such as tuff truck. This adds some limitation factors as to what we can and cant do ie the vehicles must be identifiable as their original make and model, the chassis must extend 400mm in front of the firewall, and be at least level with the back of the cab, body or chassis cant be narrowed, the grill must be 70% of its original width, must have glass or lexan windscreen in factory surrounds etc etc. basically you can run a full blown buggy but you have to keep these things in mind as the competition is fueled by spectators who like to identify with toyotas, nissans etc.

With this in mind i will be sticking with leaf front, toyota front diff housing with fj80 high pinion arb air locking diff centre, chromos, hyrdo assist hi steer, 2" drop front hanger and creeper joint shackle mount.
The rear is a gq patrol diff housing with a hybrid front/rear high pinion arb air locked centre. four link with fox coilovers.
Drivetrain is buick 3.8 v6, stage 2 tricked t700 auto adapted to toyota dual transfer cases with standard gears.
Cab is cut at the fire wall with the trans tunnel cut out as well to flat belly it. cab is lifted 2" at this stage, i may drop it down if that is feasible. the roll cage has to meet CCDA specification which means running either 1.75" tube, or 40nb pipe as long as you can prove it has an MPA rating greater then 350. Down here tube is quote dear, roughly $7/foot, at over twice the price of pipe. In my opinion i think the pipe is stronger as i have seen plenty of folded tube cages and i dont want to rebuild it every time a have a stack.

i had the car road registered and i slowly got more and more serious until now im going all out, so some of the front suspension and steering work is done. Where i am at now is-front spring hangers are in, front diff is braced and basically complete, engine is mounted, cross member for 4 link and the main belly plate section is done with the transfer case mounts, rear diff is shaved ready for bracing and mounts.

Heres a few pictures of her when i got it, its slow progression and competing

if you guys reckon i should resize these pictures recommend a size and i will happily oblige, cheers






more on its current situation coming soon
 

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Welcome.

Very nice rig, what engine are you running? Do the rules specify?

And 400mm is 15.75", could you run links up-front. Sounds like you could build your own frame to gain more up-travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeh thats what most guys do but that comes down to budget for me and i have the leafs working really well in the front. eventually i will link the front with full hydro on a gu patrol diff. i mentioned the engine before, they came out in holden commodores over here, its just a buick 3.8 v6, very popular as they are so cheap.

so heres where we are at


just mocking things up as far as wheel base and link lengths. will be a 107-108" wheel base. this is the cross member i will mount the lowers from, also got part of the belly plate cut out to mount the transfer cases. cross member is 2.5x2.5x1/4" RHS. belly plate is 3/8"



the reason behind the shape of the cross member is lower link lengths, if they mount behind the transfer case they will be about 43" long, however if i run them not triangulated i can get them to about 50" long. i have been running some numbers through the four link calculator and will post some pics in a few days for some input.
Also braced the front diff, the tube work is the mount for my hydro assist ram-the standard mount on top of the diff came into contact with my sump when i set it up.


 
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