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Discussion Starter #1
I found this today while searching up some upgrades for my dodge cummins. I figured I would post it up on here in case some one was looking into doing some upgrading and didn't know where to start or around how much power to expect from the up grades. Unfortunately it doesn't show the ft lbs but it does give you a general idea of how much power to expect and what all needs to be done to the trans to handle the power. Hope this helps someone as much as it did me ! Sorry if I posted this in the wrong section btw. I wasn't really sure where to put it so I put in here in hopes not to upset anyone.

1994 To 1998 1/2 Dodge Ram Power Recipes - Dodge Diesel Trucks - Diesel Power Magazine All Pages
 

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JCR, that is a "good" formula if you want to start spending money. Couple of points though for the cheapos among us:idea:

You can do a few things for free (the first gens aren't the only ones with free HP waiting to be unleashed)

1. slide the stock fuel plate to increase fueling
2. grind your stock fuel plate to one of the more aggressive profiles
3. (this is the biggie) tune your injection pump to what ever mods you perform

For the KDP you don't need a kit. Just buy a timing cover gasket and front crank seal. Forget the fancy bolt and washer stuff. Just take a chisel and peen the edges of the dowel pin's hole so it can't slide out--DONE!
You can even advance your inj pump's timing while in for the KDP fix-but it is one thing you may want to let a shop do if you aren't very meticulous.

It is recommended that you step up to #60 valve springs if going over 3200 rpm (don't ask me why its so specific). Many don't take the chance and install them with a 3K GSK.

Don't run out and slap on a larger turbo. 99% of the time you will lose responsiveness and low end punch. For a DD street only truck the factory unit is pretty good.

If you are saving up money for mods, the number 1 rule is ****GAUGES FIRST!!****
A pyrometer and boost gauge will go a long way to helping you tune, diagnose, and protect your engine. These two gauges at a minimum should be installed before doing any tinkering on a diesel engine.

This is all just my 2¢. There is much more to building a RELIABLE diesel powerhouse than just throwing parts at them. read up and learn about the differences between a diesel and gasser's operational theories or you can easily end up with a very expensive melted piece of yard art!:nuke:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for all that info twisted ! That's what I've been doing is search, search, search, read, read, read ! Lol but I've got my gauges orderd and I'm waiting for them to come in now ! I got boost, fuel, and egt gauges with a pod. I also have a fuel pin orderd and I'm waiting on all that to come in. But there's not a whole lot I can do rite now cuz I'm trying to find a nv4500 and swap parts to swap my truck from an auto to the 5 speed. I think it will be alot cheaper and a lot less headache if I just gohead and swap to the 5 speed instead of building an auto. Not to mention i love throwing through the gears in a diesel ! I've owned a few cummins and every one of them have had trans problems. I read that the 5 speed can handle a lot more power than the auto (unless the auto is built of course). So far I'm going to start with the kdp, fuel pin, fuel plate, turning my power screw up, ajustable 35 psi boost elbow and 4" exaghaust. After I get my trans swapped out that is. How does that sound as a starter point ?
 

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So far I'm going to start with the fuel pin, fuel plate, How does that sound as a starter point ?
Somebody is selling you a line of crap is how it sounds. You can't have a fuel pin and a plate. Pins are used in the VE pumps used on first gens. Plates are on second gens with P7100 pumps. Stay away from the magazine articles and advertisements, they will sell you anything they can. 90% is unnecessary for a peppy daily driver, they are typically for dyno queens and the uneducated sucker with a fat checkbook who thinks rolling coal is "cool" and doesn't care about the image it gives to the hobby and damage the treehuggers can and are doing to us. You need to figure out what you have first, second you need to TRUTHFULLY decide what you want from it, third come up with an informed plan of things needed to safely achieve those goals.
Rockbouncers and mudracers and pullers need high HP, typical offroad/trail use and DDs will be MUCH better served with very mild hop-up tricks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I basically just want a reliable dd with enough power to blow the doors off of some big mouthed mustang and Camaro owners while still being able to hit some trails. My truck is a 98 12v. It has a fuel plate then doesn't it ? I watched a video on YouTube of a guy turning/twisting the fuel pin around on a 12v. I guess that was a first gen. I'm not even going to act like I know what the function or what a fuel plate is. Guess its basically the same difference as a fuel pin ? But after reading a few forums on here it seemed like they had both ? Guess I was way off on that one. Another question is i read that a stock 12v can handle around 40 psi of boost (safely). Is this true or should I keep it around 25 to 30 psi ?
 

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All dodge Cummins pre 98.5 were 12 valve. They had VE pumps thru '93. '94-'98 were P7100 pumps.
Think of the injection pump as a carburetor a Holley or a Quadrajet would fit a 350 SBC before the days of EFI, right? But how about the twincam whackado motor put in the '90s ZR1 Corvettes?
The 24v motors '98.5-2002 were like TBI 350s, you could convert them back to a mechanical pump with some effort.
Then along came the common rails.
Join a site like the diesel registry or competition diesel. Either site will have loads of builds for you to research and then ask the builders about their opinions on what they really think of the mods they performed.
 
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