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Wasn't feeling baller enough to order 2 sets of RCV's, so I went with the factory replacement 1550 shafts and Weaver Fab drive flanges. Should give me a more robust setup over the factory 1480 and lockouts for added peace of mind. Hope to have it all in hand this week. Headed to Clayton next Thursday, so I've got some work to do. Checklist as it stands right now.

1. Install new 1550 shafts and drive flanges
2. Install new pinion flanges
3. Build new driveshafts
4. Fill D300 with fluid
5. Hard mount switch panel
6. Hard mount fan switches
7. Build panels for rear
8. Build roof
9. Install skid plate
 

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408 Posts
Thanks to my buddy Scott for these yoke adapters for my new driveshafts. Picking them up from him today. Will make building the new shafts a breeze. I had to have these adapters made to use 1410 yokes with 2-1/4" x 1/4" tubing. There isn't an off the shelf 1410 weld yoke available for this tube size, and the yokes don't have enough meat in them to machine them down, thus the need for the OD/ID adapters you see here.

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408 Posts
Dang that sux...........Horrible way to be put out of the race..........Look forward to more of your build. Just wondering but have you looked at wide open design driveshaft build kit?
I had not until now. I just priced it out, and it is close to 75% more than I’m going to build mine for. FYI Tatton’s driveshaft will turn-key the same driveshaft as you can spec out the DIY WOD KIT for about $25 more. Balanced and shipped. I wanted to do it more budget friendly so I decided to do it myself, otherwise I would have paid Tatton’s to build them for me.
 

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408 Posts
Pinion flanges installed.
Driveshafts built, assembled, and installed.
New brake booster installed.
All skins but 1 built and installed
T-Case filled with oil
Re-charged ORI's with different pressures and ride height

These 1410's with flanges have so much more angle available compared to my old 1350 setup with yokes it's crazy. Night and day difference. The old setup did not bind, but was very close in the rear prior to me clearancing the yokes a bit due to the offset pinion and centered rear output. This setup requires no clearancing, and is super stout compared to the old one. Huge improvement IMO. I ended up using 2.5" x .375" wall DOM for the tubing since that is what my local supplier had in stock. A little larger and thicker than I had originally planned (2-1/4" x .25"), but should not be an issue.

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More parts showed up. 1550 shafts and drive slugs. Have to get them installed tonight and load up the Jeeps. Headed to Wolf Caves in Mason, TX tomorrow. Going to be a rainy weekend, but should be a good time still.

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Well. The shafts I received were the wrong length, so I didn't get them installed before the trip. I used part #'s from the Super Duty Dana 60 thread. Ordering some different ones to try out. Will post up the correct part #'s once I confirm those. I did however knock out the rest of my list.

1. Install RCV in TJ
2. Install pinion yokes on YJ COMPLETE
3. Build new driveshafts for YJ COMPLETE
4. Fill D300 with fluid COMPLETE
5. Hard mount switch panel COMPLETE
6. Hard mount fan switches COMPLETE
7. Build panels for rear COMPLETE
8. Build roof COMPLETE
9. Install skid plate on YJ COMPLETE
10. Recharge ORI’s COMPLETE
11. Replace brake booster on YJ COMPLETE
12. 7/16” split lock washers COMPLETE
13. Order M12-1.25 fine thread bolts. 25mm long and 30mm long. COMPLETE

I didn't install the drive slugs prior to the trip since I didn't install the shafts. The first day out I ended up breaking a rear lock out on a trail, so Friday night my friends and I swapped out all 4 lock outs for the drive flanges. Friday was wet everywhere, and traction was tough to find. I also figured out that 4 PSI was not low enough for these tires. Went down to about 1 PSI for Saturday and it made a huge difference. Saturday was wet in the morning, but ended up being a great day and we had a blast. Jeep worked well. Only had a couple minor issues that popped up. Rear diff cover bolts got loose, and the clutch master burped some air that I didn't bleed out of the system, which caused me to lose my clutch at the very end of the trip when loading up on the trailer. I filled it back up yesterday and all is good though. Tightened my rear diff cover bolts and the leak is fixed. Not bad for the being the first hard trip I've taken the Jeep on.

I did notice that the tires seemed to "burp" air a couple times when flexed out on rocks, which is weird since these are double deadlocks. I never lost a bead, but did have to add some air a couple times to the rears because the almost seemed to have negative pressure in them making the tires suck in if that makes sense. Anyone else ever have this issue? These are wheels and inserts that I got from Trail Worthy Fab, so hopefully Andy will chime in on this. When I ordered, I specified exactly which tires I was running. Only thing I can think of is maybe the inserts aren't the correct width? I know all the bolts are completely tight on them.

Videos and photos to come.








 
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