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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently picked up a 95 Range Rover LWB with some known issues, one of which was the ignition switch had locked up. The redneck I bought it from removed the switch and ran a hot wire from the battery to the + post on the ignition coil, and was tapping the solenoid trigger wire on the battery to start it.

I bought a new battery and a used switch, (couldn't find a new one), everything plugged in fine but I am just getting a click when I turn it to "start". It was doing the alarm immobilizer thing at first, flashing hazards and security light on the dash, but locking and unlocking the driver door with the key cleared that, and the security light is off. I'm assuming this is not an immobilizer issue as the security light seems to be functioning and staying off.

I checked all the fuses, but I am not getting any dash lights or clicks when I turn the key to "on". Turning it to "start" the two relays in the middle (one yellow one green) of the driver kick panel click but that is it. This is with the jumper wire to the coil removed, I can still start the truck by doing that, regardless of the key position. The instrument cluster lights and ABS pump run when I connect that jumper wire, but I don't have power to the A/C or other dash switches.

The wires going to the + post of the coil are white/green, and the black wire going to the noise suppressor. There is also a red wire wrapped around it but that may be something he rigged to get it to run. The - post has a blue, white, and black/pink wire coming off of it. It seems like the main switched hot wire has been disconnected or a relay has gone bad, that is not sending power to everything.

I'm aware of the RAVE manuals, but for some reason their wiring diagrams are impossible for me to follow, and I'm a motorcycle mechanic and deal with wiring regularly. I know sooner or later I will probably just have to start picking through the harness one wire at a time, but I'd like to check any common issues first.

Here's the coil diagram I found, but as I said I don't understand it. I'm not sure what colors the wires are supposed to be, or what the letters and numbers stand for.

http://forums.roversnorth.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7185&d=1350422628

Thanks for any help or tests I can do to start tracking this down. I'm hoping it is just a bad relay or wire he clipped somewhere.
 

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Are you getting power to the starter?

Time to go to the starter and confirm you have power where you're supposed to and that it goes where it's supposed to when you turn the key.

you may be better served using the wiring diagram for a '95 Disco and they are fundamentally similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks PT, I am not getting power to anything through the key switch, including dash lights or the starter, only the relays clicking in the start position. I was worried about the alarm/immobilizer, and the RAVE manual states if the car is locked with the key fob and it is lost, the ECU has to be replaced. I don't know if it was locked with the fob or not, but I'm assuming since the red light on the dash is staying off that isn't the problem. On my 97 Disco if the alarm was triggered it wouldn't start, but the dash lights and blower motor would still come on.

I checked all of the wiring on the ignition switch itself, the black end of the switch that has the 5 larger wires with the brown and yellow plugs appears to be working fine.

Brown: hot constant, 12v in
Green: hot ACC position
Yellow: hot ON position
White: hot ON position
White/Red: hot START position

The smaller white plug with 6 wires has no power to anything except the key surround light, in any position :confused:

The 2 pin black plug with the black and orange wire that goes to the clear/white module on the switch has no power either.

I'm still thinking it may be a relay or wire they cut, the manual shows the red wire that is wrapped around the + on the coil should be the 12v from the switch, but it isn't getting power.

Like I said before, if I run a hot wire from the battery to the + on the coil I get power to the instrument cluster and the ABS pump, but still not the HVAC controls. It also will not start through the ignition switch with that jumper wire, I have to tap the solenoid trigger on the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Still picking through this, from the RAVE manual it shows the ignition switch should be sending power to fuses 13, 16, and 17 in the main fuse panel when it is on. I have power coming out of the wires on the switch but it is sending power to fuses 3 and 6 when it is turned on. Double checked everything under the hood, it is all getting 12.5v to both sides of all fuses.

The top satellite fuse panel has power all of the time, in the bottom satellite panel I'm getting power to the two leftmost fuses all of the time and that is it.

There is mention of an ignition key lock solenoid and an ignition load relay in the RAVE but I haven't tracked them down yet. I also noticed when I put the jumper wire to the coil I get the door buzzer going off, regardless of whether the door is open or what position the key is in.
 

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Still picking through this, from the RAVE manual it shows the ignition switch should be sending power to fuses 13, 16, and 17 in the main fuse panel when it is on. I have power coming out of the wires on the switch but it is sending power to fuses 3 and 6 when it is turned on. Double checked everything under the hood, it is all getting 12.5v to both sides of all fuses.

The top satellite fuse panel has power all of the time, in the bottom satellite panel I'm getting power to the two leftmost fuses all of the time and that is it.

There is mention of an ignition key lock solenoid and an ignition load relay in the RAVE but I haven't tracked them down yet. I also noticed when I put the jumper wire to the coil I get the door buzzer going off, regardless of whether the door is open or what position the key is in.
Ignition load relay will be behind the kick panel, right side of truck. Metal case, black base. It is critical that this and the fuel pump relay be the correct ones for the application or they won't work and will flatten the battery in no time.

You're on the right track, but go back and read the part about ECU replacement as that is not correct and you might be looking at the wrong circuit diagram. Again, thsi truck is identical to a '95 DI save sheetmetal.
 
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