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Discussion Starter #1
hey yall back again after all these years
this is my 95 k1500 i got bone stock at 16, some of u have watched it grow for over 15 years now. heres how shes doin now
still under construction but slowly getting there and done for relatively cheap
i am no mechanic and was kinda wingin it

sky sas 3” bolt on kit
85 gm 10 bolt front from 85 k10
crossover steering
gm 14 bolt sf from 92 k2500
4” 78-87 leafs
3” body lift
42.5x13.50 boggers
15x12 mickey thompson classic
4.5” rear blocks

for awhile i had 40x17 groundhawgs on 15x14 wheels

current problems
still stock gearing and i have a np208c that i havent gotten the 4wd lever to connect yet bc its on the other side

the np208 also doesnt work with speedometer, i was wondering if anyone knew what vss i can buy

also need custom crossmember for passenger drop axle.
between the shifter, crossmember, and the 208 having less tourqe than factory tcase, should i throw in a front axle from a f250 possibly. is the 10 bolt worth keepin offroad? ive got 5.13s for the rear
thanks yall


good to be back


 

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10B front is certainly a questionable choice for the front axle with that tire size. With that being said a GM D60 will swap right in (as will a 14FF for the rear) << the 14SF is not a terrible choice depending on how hard you intend to use the truck/type of terrain you'll traverse. An NP241 from an 90/1 Blazer/Sub (w/700R4) will have the VSS and is the same strength as the 208 an bolt right in IIRC. Drivetrain really depends on what you have in mind for the projects end use.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the reply
i may downsize to 38.5 - 39.5. but those boggers are 560 a tire and i got all 4 almost brand new for about $900, theyre too big honestly but i figured id trade down the road

i think im wanting to go f250 axle in the front bc its alittle more common than d60s. i already have the 5.13s for the SF, but seems like alot of small odd parts to go together for pass drop
any idea what steering issues may arise from f250 front?
right now i have a heim joint connnected to factory pitman arm w the flattop knuckle. ill probly work on changing to a drop pitman instead
 

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I've always loved that era stepside truck and would love to have an SAS converted one as a mall crawler/light wheeler. Anyway....

If you are actually going to use the truck hard the 10-bolt front is definitely on the iffy side. Keep it open, stay in the mud, and don't beat on it too hard and it might hold up for awhile, but you could probably break it on demand if you got it down in a rut or wedged between some rocks and gave it some gas. The rear 14SF is decent but on the borderline with 42's on a fullsize truck with any hard use.

For using a front F-250 axle, assuming a half-way newer version, it will have a metric 8 lug bolt pattern that obviously wouldn't match the existing rear axle. 8-lug 14SF are pretty common and basically just new shafts and drums but not sure I would spend the time and money to do that and still have a different bolt pattern. I would seriously consider swapping in a matching rear axle from an F-250 at the same time.

For the NP208 transfer case the low range gearing is barely different than the factory 241...about 4% difference so I would say not noticable. As already stated if you stay with a passenger drop axle the '90-'91 NP241 from a K5 Blazer or Suburban will bolt in and have the VSS input. You can find them but they are not very common as they were only used for a couple years on low production level vehicles (K5 production was pretty low those years, and not sure about the Subs but nearly as common as pickups which have a different t-case). However wait until you decide on a front axle to determine exactly what t-case you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
pics please
its been 40x17 on 15x14 IFS and SAS
its been stock
3” on 33x12.50 swamper TSLs
3” on 35” on maxxis buckshots
6” + 3” on 38x15.50 nitto mud grapplers
6” + 3” on 39.5x13.50 swamper iroks
6” + 3” on 40x17 hawgs
sas on 40x17 hawgs
now the boggers. but theyre too tall, csnt flex
got pics of them all


im honestly thinkin 39.5 boggers
heres a few






 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've always loved that era stepside truck and would love to have an SAS converted one as a mall crawler/light wheeler. Anyway....

If you are actually going to use the truck hard the 10-bolt front is definitely on the iffy side. Keep it open, stay in the mud, and don't beat on it too hard and it might hold up for awhile, but you could probably break it on demand if you got it down in a rut or wedged between some rocks and gave it some gas. The rear 14SF is decent but on the borderline with 42's on a fullsize truck with any hard use.

For using a front F-250 axle, assuming a half-way newer version, it will have a metric 8 lug bolt pattern that obviously wouldn't match the existing rear axle. 8-lug 14SF are pretty common and basically just new shafts and drums but not sure I would spend the time and money to do that and still have a different bolt pattern. I would seriously consider swapping in a matching rear axle from an F-250 at the same time.

For the NP208 transfer case the low range gearing is barely different than the factory 241...about 4% difference so I would say not noticable. As already stated if you stay with a passenger drop axle the '90-'91 NP241 from a K5 Blazer or Suburban will bolt in and have the VSS input. You can find them but they are not very common as they were only used for a couple years on low production level vehicles (K5 production was pretty low those years, and not sure about the Subs but nearly as common as pickups which have a different t-case). However wait until you decide on a front axle to determine exactly what t-case you need.
preciate the deep insight, it is really helpful, i think youve made me realized i just need to sack up and get some 38-40 boggers, f250 leaf axle front and rear
sell chevy axles and 42s to help pay for it, theyre all in good shape
it was rough puttin it together, but i need to beef it up to hold up when i hit the mud, also need more flex for offroad
ive got a 06 f250 on 38s and the steering and axles are so beefy
the 208 is kinda sketchy shiftin, the stock tcase i can tell has ALOT more torque, more speed that pull tho


thanks for layin it all out tho
i wanna 4low around in the woods, mud and whatever. i learned how to do it cheaply, now i can really build it
 

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When you say F250 axle...are you talking a D44...which is no difference strength wise than the 10 bolt you have now! So swapping that in with all the other changes needed is not wise.
 

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He's probably referring to the Super Duty Dana 50s.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
When you say F250 axle...are you talking a D44...which is no difference strength wise than the 10 bolt you have now! So swapping that in with all the other changes needed is not wise.
a superduty axle if it will bolt up. im thinkin ford for the driver drop
tryna weigh my options
this truck is like legos lol
 

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a superduty axle if it will bolt up. im thinkin ford for the driver drop
tryna weigh my options
this truck is like legos lol
A factory GM 10-bolt front axle has a 32" spring pad spacing where as the Super Duty axles I believe are 37 3/4", so no it will not "bolt up". Not familiar enough off hand with the SD axle to know if it's possible to move the spring pad perches enough to accommodate the GM spacing.
 
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