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Discussion Starter #82
how is the factory limited slip working? I picked up the same 8.8 axle and 4cyl YJ front and want to hold off on the rear locker until I decide on final tires/gears.
It's great on the street in the ice and snow, but it just isn't a locker. Problem is that if you put in a LSD the only lunchbox locker is a $500 No Spin.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Well I got around to working on the YJ again. Had to take a break last year due to wedding and honeymoon. Now that it's warming up I'm installing some stuff.

I put in a deep transmission pan and flushed the fluid. Shifting much smoother and faster now.

I also decided I'm not going to spend the money or dick around with selectable lockers. It's just more then I want to spend. Besides, driving this thing in the ice and snow sucks so I'm just going to put in auto lockers. I put in a Spartan locker in the front today and topped it off with a BTF cover.

Since my rear has an LSD, the only lunchbox locker that fits that carrier is a $500 No Spin. So I'll most likely put a Detroit in next month.

I also picked up a set of stock YJ leaf springs for when I go SOA. Not sure what I'm gonna do yet. I remember bending and breaking lots of main leafs on stock YJ leafs, but since I only have 33s I want the least amount lift possible.

I'm thinking about using the main leafs from my RE lift springs (new bushings) with the old factory YJ leafs. Also would like to find another set and run rears all around. The joy of leaf springs, playing around. I think my old YJ went thru about 15 different combinations of springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
The 8.8 Grizzy locker arrived Friday. The thing is much larger then I thought it would be. Reminds me of my old Dana 60 Detroit from my old YJ. The more I tear into the 8.8 the more impressed I am.

Carrier bearings and shims are not here yet. I thought about buying the Harbor Freight 6 ton bench shop press because it doesn't take up much space, but I've heard mixed reviews on whether or not it can do carrier bearings. Some of my friends are saying to buy a 12 ton or larger. I used to juts be able to go to a friend's house to press in bearings when I lived in Texas but don't know anyone with a press here.

6 Ton A-Frame Bench Shop Press

I like it because when I'm not using it I can keep it on the shelf. The only other place I have room for a big press is where I'd much rather have a drill press. It's not often I need a hydraulic press.

Also, Blue Torch Fab is out of 8.8 diff covers with a 6-8 week back order. I am heading to Moab May 20th. I wish there was a way I could post up in the vender forum to see if anyone has any in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #87 (Edited)
I think the only issue I had with my 8.8 ruff stuff cover was some minor interference with the gas tank skid. Nothing a hammer couldn't fix.
Is that with stock wheelbase and a 20 gallon late model YJ tank?

RuffStuff cover looks nice. I liked the elevated fill plug. But it's pricey considering it's $138 for the cover, another $8 for bolts (I'm guessing recessed allen like BTF), and another $15 for shipping. $160.70 total.


It's $120 for the BTF cover, with bolts, shipped.

But I guess if I can't find someone with a BTF cover in stock this week I'll just order the Ruff Stuff.
 

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Is that with stock wheelbase and a 20 gallon late model YJ tank?

RuffStuff cover looks nice. I liked the elevated fill plug. But it's pricey considering it's $138 for the cover, another $8 for bolts (I'm guessing recessed allen like BTF), and another $15 for shipping. $160.70 total.


It's $120 for the BTF cover, with bolts, shipped.

But I guess if I can't find someone with a BTF cover in stock this week I'll just order the Ruff Stuff.
Keep in mind Ruffstuff always has 15-20% discount codes available. That brings the price within a few bucks of BlueTorch.

My wheelbase was extended about an inch via re-drilled holes in the perches, and yes, with the 20 gallon tank.

you can see some of the clearancing here.


Also, smooth out the bottom of the housing if you have the desire.

 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
Keep in mind Ruffstuff always has 15-20% discount codes available. That brings the price within a few bucks of BlueTorch.

My wheelbase was extended about an inch via re-drilled holes in the perches, and yes, with the 20 gallon tank.

you can see some of the clearancing here.


Also, smooth out the bottom of the housing if you have the desire.

Found a 15% off code and that brought it down to $130.95 so I ordered the Ruff Stuff. Also no tax.

Do I smooth out the bottom with the cover installed (like a 14FF lip) possibly having to cut the cover lip or is it just something I can do with a grinder whenever. I haven't even really looked under there.

I like your exhaust routing, BTW.
 

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Found a 15% off code and that brought it down to $130.95 so I ordered the Ruff Stuff. Also no tax.

Do I smooth out the bottom with the cover installed (like a 14FF lip) possibly having to cut the cover lip or is it just something I can do with a grinder whenever. I haven't even really looked under there.
It's not a cover-related issue. It's more like smoothing out the factory bottom of the housing, to keep the reinforcement lip from snagging. Material was actually welded to the bottom of the housing so build up the space before the lip, so it would slide over rocks easier.

If you look at this pic of the Artec 8.8, you can see how there is a lip that sticks down about an inch. Building up the housing to ramp into it, will help keep the housing from getting snagged on random rocks.

 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
Took advantage of a really warm spring weekend in Denver to install the Yukon Grizzly (detroit) in the jeep instead of skiing.

I've not had much hands on experience with this axle, and it's kinda weird compared to Spicer shit. The good thing is that backlash shims are on the outside of the bearings. This is good because I don't have a press (High Country Performance 4x4 pressed them in for me; great guys, good shop. Never been there before and will be going back), but the shims are kinda a bitch to put in (another reason I think the 14FF is the best axle ever with the spanners). After a few tries we figured the best way to do it was to put the carrier with bearings and races in without the shims. Then put the driver side shim in, snug up the bearing cap, then drive in the passenger side and tighten it up with the bearing cap. Backlash measured good with ching chong harbor freight dial indicator using the stock shims. I heard from a friend who does lots of gears that 99% of the time, that's how it is. Also, the cross pin on the Yukon locker was weird. The only way we could figure to do it was to install the carrier, install the shaft c clips, then remove the passenger side bearing cap to get in the cross pin bolt.

I also had a bitch of a time with the ring gear. Seems like every other axle I've worked with it just goes right in. Damn thing is like pressed in or some shit. Ended up having to go to the hardware store and buying a little longer 7/16"x20 bolts to snug the ring gear onto the carrier before putting in the real ring gear bolts. (weird bolts because they're 7/16" but use a ¾" socket. IIRC I bought 2 1" long 7/16"x20 and 4 ¾" long 7/16x20 and used those to snug it up.

Put in new rear rotors because they were less than allowable thickness; also pads were about a mm thick (junkyard axle swapped in last year). It stops about a million times better so that's cool.

Only problem is the RuffSTuff cover is so big that it's hitting the gas tank skid plate at full compression. I'm sure it'll work a divot out so not too worried about it.

I'm officially locked front and rear now so I'm ready for some wheeling. I was too afraid to wheel this thing until now because I"m so used to a big YJ on 42s. I'd really like a soft top now. :laughing:

It's probably been 10 years since I had a road rig with a rear 'detroit'. It seems to be acting normal. I seem to only remember the rear hard lockers acting up when turning really sharp on smooth concrete like inside a shop or in a parking lot 'chirp chirp chirp'.

I put 3 quarts of oil in the 8.8, capacity says 2 quarts, and it's still not full. I guess it takes lots of oil when the pinion is pointed to the sky. Also not sure if 2 quarts includes filling the shafts/bearings. Was too lazy to replace the axle seals, and they looked good. Probably would have replaced the seals if rotors weren't $28 each and pads $23. Fuck I'm not used to paying walk-in price for parts.

Funny axle. Shafts are huge as fuck for a semi float, ring gear thick as fuck, pinion huge. I guess that's why they're so desirad. But I have to see it in person until I get it. Not worried so much about blowing this thing up with 33s-35s.


btw, can a mod rename this thread. My wife won't drive it anymore :laughing:

At the end of the day; no one gives a shit about my YJ cause everyone has a $60,000 JK here. :laughing:
 

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I put a Yukon Grizzly in the 8.8 that lives under my YJ also. The 8.8 parts really are heavy for the size of the axle.

I am running a front Aussie and I am very happy with the setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
Ordered a soft top. Tired of the hard top. There's no way in fuck I'm going to have a hard top on for the big Moab trip coming up. Owned this jeep for almost 3 years and haven't taken it off. Driving me crazy. Finally took it off last night. Never dealt wit ha hard top before. What a pain in the ass. It's nice in the winter but I might just sell it. Will probably be too lazy to put it back on. Taking it off wasn't the hard part, but carrying it out of the garage, into the back yard, and dropping it on the side of the house is what really sucked.

Figures a spring snowstorm is coming the day after I remove it. Haven't had a chance to put the soft top on yet. Was able to drive around the neighborhood with the top off and go buy some beer. Reminded me of old times. Driving a jeep with a hard top just isn't the same.

Guys who live with snow, one of the main reasons I wanted a hard top is because I didn't know if snow would accumulate on top of the soft top and basically stretch it out and get stuck. Does this happen? Almost all the Jeeps in Colorado are JKs and they all have hard tops. I'd say I see one soft top jeep per 100 hard tops. In Texas I had a soft top at first but then went about 4 years without a top at all.
 

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Had a soft top on my YJ in Idaho and Montana. Bestop super top, never had an issue. Also had a Supertop on my TJ Rubicon. Also had a hartop for my TJ, was in the same boat as you. Wanted to sell the hardtop. Instead sold whole Jeep. Would rather have an old YJ or CJ7 again. The TJ was too shmancy for my taste in Jeeps. You will be fine in snow, its gets plenty warm inside too. I had snow pile up on top of mine no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
Had a soft top on my YJ in Idaho and Montana. Bestop super top, never had an issue. Also had a Supertop on my TJ Rubicon. Also had a hartop for my TJ, was in the same boat as you. Wanted to sell the hardtop. Instead sold whole Jeep. Would rather have an old YJ or CJ7 again. The TJ was too shmancy for my taste in Jeeps. You will be fine in snow, its gets plenty warm inside too. I had snow pile up on top of mine no problems.
Cool. I also ordered the Bestop Supertop. Always read good things about them. Had the old factory style soft top on my YJ and the OE design didn't look as good as the Supertop frame system.

Maybe I'll sell the hard top and use it to fund off road goodies. I'm guessing I could get $800-$1200 for it. Has good tinted glass, sunroof, rear defrost, and rear wiper.

We'll see. It was a pain in the ass to remove it, but it maybe only took 15-30 minutes including carrying it to the back yard.

With the front and rear auto lockers, I don't drive it if there's snow/ice on the ground anyway.
 

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I've been running the supertop on mine. No issues with snow, but I put a raingear top over the jeep if it is parked outside. More concerned about UV fading than snow accumulation in winter. Mine also leaks at the door/window seals with my soft doors, and unless its a wheeling trip, it stays parked from November to March.
 

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
I've been running the supertop on mine. No issues with snow, but I put a raingear top over the jeep if it is parked outside. More concerned about UV fading than snow accumulation in winter. Mine also leaks at the door/window seals with my soft doors, and unless its a wheeling trip, it stays parked from November to March.
Yeah I always had problems with soft upper doors and my old ones leaking, and they'd flap around on the highway. The full doors might make the soft top work better on mine.

Mine is usually parked outside during the winter. If there's only a few inches predicted I leave it outside, if a big storm comes I can squeeze it in the garage with the Xterra.

UV is bad here in Denver. That's why the paint on the YJ is fried.
 
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