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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy Ya'll! I'm fairly new to the world of 4x4. I bought a 1997 F350 4x4 Powerstorke Crew Cab. It was set up pretty nicely with about an 8" lift and BGF 35's. Bearings in the front needed replacing so I went ahead and put on Warn manual lock out hubs. I put a 3" down tube in off the turbo and I had to replace the cam position sensor. I think the springs on the front are Superlift. OK, now to my problem. The rear has two blocks. It looks like the factory 4" block and an after market 4" block. The top block is walking around and is twisted. And according to my wife the truck dog tracks going down the road. How do I fix this?
Thanks, JAFO
PS I have a 90 gal. "L" fuel tank in the bed under a tool box. When its full, it weighs a lot! I thought this might matter when choosing springs.
 

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why did you put on a 8" lift to run tires that should fit stock? :confused: thats what I'm wondering..
 

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Take lift off, and trade it to someone who wants it. You can run 35's on that truck stock with minor trimming. I cant even imagine what 8" looks like on that thing with 35's. :shaking: If you want to keep the giant lift, you can get lift rear springs that will get rid of one or both of the blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess I'm missing something. The truck doesn't look all that disproportionate. It probably could stand bigger tires. The rear springs look to be stock, with the stock block and an after market 4" block, for a total of 8" in blocks, plus the srpings. So, I guess it is a total of only 4" over stock. I said up front I'm new to 4x4. And my question is how do I square up the rear end so it will line up? I don't want to have to buy springs all the way around. The front Superlift springs look fairly new.
 

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Well if it doesn't look dispropotionate(sp) then it's probably not an 8" lift.

On the F250's and 350's I can't remember which way it is....but the front axle is a little wider than the rear......or the rear is wider than the front.

Is that what she means by Dog Tracking or is the whole rear end off to one side?
 

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The rear end is about 3" narrower than the front on the trucks with the Sterling rear.
 

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Hickeyjones said:
Whatever you do, get rid of that stacked block crap before it falls out.
I have had stacked blocks for 2yrs now with no problems course mine is on a 2" block and a 3" block
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, the blocks may be "gay" but that dosen't help me get my truck down the road straight. Or is it the "gay" blocks can't go "straight"?
 

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like everyone else said i think 8" is a bit too much. i have a 96 and am about to get a set of 35's with no lift at all. i would get a set of superlift or skyjacker rear springs and throw them in so you can rid of at least one of the blocks. although with 8" of lift you prolly wouldn't be doing much towing...if that's the case do a shackle flip and get 4" for free!

you might check your wheels and make sure they are straight. i would take some measurements and make sure the previous owner didn't bend the frame or didn't align the rear axle properly! ya just never know...i have found that previous owners are assholes, but that's due to the 'cool' mods they perform and then try to reverse them before selling!

-cutts-
 

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since when does a shackle flip give you 4" ???

mine gave me 1-1.5"
 

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do whatever you want to get rid of the rear blocks (at least one of them anyways.. probably just buy new rear 4" springs) and then take it to a truck alignment shop. They'll tell you how much your rear is out and can fix it no problem.. Yes, that means departing with $$, but if you are asking you'll never be able to figure it out yourself. (unless you happen to have an alignment rack you can use for a while for free..)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think I only have 4" over stock. I just added the factory 4" block to the aftermarket one and ASSuMEd I had 8". I was trying to get by with as little $ out of my pocket as possible, but I guess I'll have to spring for new springs. (sorry about that one!)It just sucks not being able to do it myself.
 

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You can change rear springs yourself in your own driveway with a jack, some jackstands, cheap handtools, and a case of beer. Or 30pak. Or, well, what the hell make it two cases and get a friend to help. Either way, rear leaf change is very very basic and anyone can do it.
 

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Butler said:
Just because you have not had a problem doesn't make it right. This is one of the most stupid ideas in suspension aside from using blocks in the front.
Well Superlift has done alot more research on this that I have or every will.

But the stacked blocks work fine......they haven't shifted, torqued, moved anything since I have had them in there.

I have hauled some pretty heavy loads with those in there also.





 

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Jrod-13 said:
since when does a shackle flip give you 4" ???

mine gave me 1-1.5"
since i installed mine! i measured before and after the install and i gained a lil over 4", like 4.25" or something like that.

-cutts-
 

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If you want the cheapest "fix", I say get the blocks welded togother. Viola`!! No more twisting blocks. Just be sure to retorque your u-bolts about every 100 miles for a thousand miles or so.

If you want a "correct" fix, either do a shackle flip with the hanger swap to net your 4". Or get new springs. If you do a shackle flip, be sure and reinforce the shackles. They're designed to be in tension, not compression.

My 2....
 
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