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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
I had no luck finding a Ram 2500 Dana FF rear, but I got a great deal on a 10.5 from an '01 F250, with 3.73:1 and matching 16x10s on nearly new LT315/75R16Es. Great, but my front D44 has 3.92s on LT265/75R16Es on 7s. So I need used 4.30s for the rear until I can fit 315s up front. Then I'll need 4.27s for the D44, I have no plans to swap a front D60 this year, unless I win a million. Not likely. If I did I'd just buy a different truck.
This isn't my first time fitting a disc brake HD axle to a drum brake 1500, but this is my first Dodge.
I know I must do something about the residual pressure valve, but so far I have no clue what.
I know I need an adjustable proportioning valve, so I'll order that next paycheck.
Since I will need to address the differences in shock mounting, I want to get the lower end to not hang below the tubes anymore.
As soon as I find my tape measure, I'm eager to compare leafspring spacing. Probably not close enough to avoid cutting and welding.
I also scored a pair of aluminum 16x8" 8x170 wheels, on bald LT285/75s, but unless the 16x10s cause problems, they're not going on.
I expect my driveshaft to be too long now. In the morning I'm going after a missing caliper carrier. A reman caliper, a new rotor, and new pads have been ordered to replace what's missing.
Pics as soon as there's good sunlight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did get a used caliper carrier, or mounting bracket, I also got a set of u bolts and the top plates. Ford puts the plates above the leafs, which I like. I may get u bolt eliminators if I hafts move the perches and can't remove them cleanly. But the u bolts were only $20 for the set.
I also scored a used TractionLok for $60, I contacted Randy's about a rebuild kit, and this morning I hope to go back to the salvage yard for a set of 4.10s and a pair of 285s for the front, since 4.30s are eluding me.
I still use this truck daily, for now, today I hafta take a load to the county dump then move a bedroom set.
My next worry is the driveshaft, i hope to pull one I saw in an F250 that has a SYE, or maybe Ford built it that way. But like my Ram, it's a 4WD ext cab short box, and since the shaft I saw is effectively adjustable length, it might work with a conversion u joint. We'll see.
Ford put both shocks behind the axle, Dodge put the passenger side in front, I'm inclined to keep it Dodge's way since that's supposed to resist wheel hop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Success! I got the 4.10s, the driveshaft, and the 285s for $117.
Randy's got back to me, I hafta determine if my TL had paper clutches or steel clutches. I can get the papers but not the steels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Side story; I have a black '99 Durango, 5.2L and 3.54:1, that's begging for these 3.92s and 265s once this is done. Since used aluminum 16s are less than $50 each, that's my after-party.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Finally measured the perch centers, Ram: 44.5", axle:45.0", close enough. I fudged more when I put an Explorer axle under my '86 S-10.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So these wheels are Raceline 887-60081, which Raceline rates at 3420# each. But the F250 I took them from had a truly destroyed right front wheel, and it looked cast.
So I checked Summit, and no Cragar steelies. I know the Cragars are rated 3650. But Cragar doesn't do steel 16s for 8x170. Summit shows I can get similar from US Wheel in August.
I found forged from Alcoa, rayed 3750#, but only 16x7, and not 8x170.
I found XD makes some 16x9s rated to 3640# each, but do they get that from being forged? So I emailed them yesterday, no response yet.
This pic is one of my Racelines.
I really don't need the load rating, I thought it would indicate cast or forged, but I also don't need a broken Raceline far from help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got my u joints measured, the Ram slip yoke out of my A518? is a 7290, while both ends of the F250 driveshaft use 1350s, so I ordered the Neapco adapter joint. As soon as it arrives, I'll have everything necessary to do the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry no pics, life is what happens while I'm busy making other plans. But all the parts arrived, so now I'm overloading my Ram with bottled water to see what fails first, if anything. I may be setting myself up for regret and extra expense, but maybe then I could get a real 3500 with a long box.
My mother in law died, and she had all this bottled water in her basement, and her dogs have urinated on it, so I'm taking it to the dump in one trip, I should have a weight in 18 hours or so. If it's over 10k and nothing fails, I may rethink this axle swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
After studying how the posi-lock kit works on the front axle disconnect, I searched for a manual vacuum switch, which I found listed as a paddle valve. It's for slammed airbag cars, but it looks nice in the dash. It's a $20 way to do the same thing as the posi-lock kit.
For less than $100, I now have a poor man's selectable locker. I'll report back when (if?) I get this done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This website used to be a hell of a lot more active, but it seems I have about 40 following, so I apologize for my slow progress, i know you want pics, not excuses.
My mother in law died in January 2021, the insurance money is nearly gone, and the house isn't quite ready to sell. We found mold in the basement.
Plus the Durango failed emissions because of a bad exhaust oxygen sensor, so I installed a new Bosch sensor, 2 hours later the check engine light came back on. My second temp tag expires today.
Back to this Ram, I can't find new seals for the front axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So I got my Durango to pass the emissions test, and I have a buyer as soon as I fix the coolant leak and get the power windows working again. I want that new E-locker! (before I swap the axles)
 
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