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hi-steer ninja
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well, after getting frustrated attempting to find a good high steering solution for the 99-04 ford f250-350 superduty dana 50/60 axles, we have come up with our own and are now offering it to fellow pirate 4x4 members..

HERES WHAT IS CURRENTLY OFFERED..

ONE PAIR OF YOUR STEERING KNUCKLES MACHINED FOR OUR STEERING ARMS, AND ONE SET OF LEFT/RIGHT BLANK ENDED ARMS WITH HARDWARE-
$500 plus shipping, or $250 for one side plus shipping
add on's:
ball joints installed $250/set of four, $125/set of two (SPICER)
knuckle savers $150 ea., $275 pr. (includes 7075 billet saver and hardware)
don't have cores, add $200 per side
hub seals $55 ea.
axle spacer and thrust washer pack $32/side
specs:1" thick steel arms, 3/4" over knuckle, 6x1/2" fine thread attachment points, double keyed to knuckle, stock legnth, std. hardware included (grade 8 socket head cap screws) see pics below


flex shots 004.JPG
flex shots 005.JPG
flex shots 007.JPG
knuckle saver 002.JPG
IF WE CAN HELP YOUR BUILD, CONTACT ME THROUGH PM ON THE BOARD, E-MAIL @[email protected], OR weaverfabrication.com
check us out on facebook for all the latest info and builds, weaver fabrication
WE ARE CURRENTLY ACCEPTING PAYPAL, MC, VISA, DISCOVER AND CASHIER CHECK
SHIPPING WILL BE UPS, YOU WILL BE NOTIFIED WHEN YOUR COMPONENTS OR PAYMENTS ARE RECIEVED, STATUS OF YOUR ORDER AND RETURN SHIPPING COSTS VIA E-MAIL OR PM(PREFERRED) OR PHONE,
PLEASE INCLUDE ALL CONTACT INFO WITH YOUR COMPONENTS (name, address, e-mail, pirate contact, etc..)

FAQ:
Q: I'm ready, how does this work?
A: when you are ready, send your cores to :
weaver fabrication
21433 gilbert drive
redding, ca 96002
your cores must be stock and in good condition, remember to include your information with your stuff, always good to shoot me a pm to let me know something is on the way, don't forget your email addy!

Q: why do I need a knuckle saver
A: in the event of an upper ball joint failure or an axle u-joint failure, the knuckle saver prevents the loss of steering and brake control that happens when the tire/knuckle assembly separates from the vehicle. "drive it back to camp" in the event of failure and "save collateral damages" from happening!!

Q: what is stock and in good condition mean?
A: a stock take off knuckle, no missing or bent/broken pieces, not excessively rusted or pitted, no prior welding, no drilled out tie rod ends

Q: what if my knuckles aren't stock?
A: in most cases, they can be machined, but, there will be a $100 setup fee

Q: what is a setup fee?
A: a setup fee is a charge to cover the cost of setting up a cnc to machine a specific part. this only applies to knuckles that cant be exchanged due to mods or non stocking items.

Q: are dana 50 and dana 60 unit knucks the same?
A: yes

Q: do i have to remove the ball joints?
A: no, i can do it for you, but they will be removed for cnc

Q: will i retain the vacuum autolock function?
A: no, the machining operation removes the port

Q: what is the turnaround time?
A: we typically will ship out within a couple days, once cores have been recieved/inspected, shipping is 2-5 business days depending on location.

Q: how much is shipping?
A: in the lower 48, a kit runs +/-$65 depending on where it is going, ups ground.
a single side would obviously be less.

Q: can i tie the arms together?
A: yes, the original arm tilts inward stock, the hi-steer runs parrallel to eachother, they are located over the stock arm. it just takes spot facing the stock arm and drilling the hi-steer arm.

Q: will these clear leafsprings?
A: yes and no, it depends on the spring pack and where the tie rod is attached, this arm is not as tall as the oru arm.

Q: will this kit clear h1 wheels?
A: recentered h1's clear fine, stock h1's would require 8x6.5" units and a spacer.

Q: why are the arms blank?
A: there are too many steering options to setup for, tie rods or heims, degrees of steering, ram stroke, etc.. this allows the end user to plan and drill the arm to suit his particular setup.

Q: do you have a solution for 05'-up axles
A: yes, see our 05-up thread or go to weaverfabrication.com

Q: can you machine f450-f550 knuckles with the bigger brakes?
A: yes, since we do not stock the cores for that application, the turnaround time will be longer. see picture below of f450 cnc knuckle
 

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Holy shtiat! Are you a profit? Did Jesus send you? Cause I've been praying for a solid high steer kit that wont cost my right testicle.

BOTH knuks, BOTH arms.... $325? We shall do buisness in the future. :D

Amazing setup by the way! Excellent work. :smokin:
 

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Nice design! Have seen some failure of other designes before. Yours looks real good!
 

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What is the difference in the 99-05 ball joint knuckles and 99-down knuckles? Could you do knuckles from a 95? Pardon my ignorance, this is the first ball joint axle I've built.
 

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What is the difference in the 99-05 ball joint knuckles and 99-down knuckles? Could you do knuckles from a 95? Pardon my ignorance, this is the first ball joint axle I've built.
I just want to add to this VVVV.

99-04 is the break, 05-up is a coil spring axle and a different outer knuckle, the early ball joint/spindle 60 is also a different casting... may look into those in the future tho..
the 99-04ford is what i can offer at this time. thanx
The 92-97 knuckles have pretty high steering arms from the factory. See the pics below.





I'm not saying you don't need it, or couldn't benefit from it. All I'm saying is it's not NEARLY as needed as on the 99-04 knuckles. See the pics below to realize just how low the steering arms are. :barf:






All you really need is for the steering arm to be taller than the center line of the axle tube, and the 92-97 BJ60s are definitely that tall or better.
 

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What the deal with the knucks. How are you getting them? I see no mention that you want cores returned....

You just have an amazing junkyard hook?
What if we sent you our knuckles....you machine em, send em back with arms? 10 bucks? :laughing: Jk.

Im just curious how your getting ahold of so many and how your can do this so cheap.

Also, how much is milled of the knuckle? And in your orginal post, pic 3...I see 2 things that have me wondering.
#1...The first hole outside....looks like you maybe missed with the first hole? #2...The hole directly behind it look like its right on the outter edger of the knuckle?? Do you have any pics of the knuckle from the out? Or where the UBH bolts up?
 

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hi-steer ninja
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3,178 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
you send your knuckles in, i am working on procuring extra sets to make turnaround faster, the knuckle is milled almost nill at the front and maybe 1/4" at the rear, on the holes, the first outer hole is close to the orinigal "vacuum port" for the vacuum hub lock, so depending on the casting the first couple threads can intersect it, however there is plenty of meat left, the second hole on the outside just looks close, this is where the abs wiring ran originally and a casting dip is, the hole is good, all machining is done on a cnc, all holes line up perfectly, it is just the pic, i will post some additional pics later, thanx

here is one from my build thread that i think works..
 

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hi-steer ninja
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Discussion Starter #15
good deal, i am stocking up on arms now, turnaround to get back in the mail to you guys should be 1 week for now, i really feel like this will unlock an otherwise kickass dana 60 that is cheap and easy to find in any junkyard, has big disc brakes, high pinion, lots of parts availability, etc...
 

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I was going to PM this to you, but thought the tech might be valuable to others?

Is there ANY WAY to get the lower ball joint out of the inner-C withOUT a pickle fork AND withOUT destroying it? My ball joints are in pretty good shape. If I don't have to replace them, then I don't want to. The biggest pickle fork at either AutoZone or O'Rileys is only 1 1/8" between the forks, and it's not near big enough. What about grinding out the fork to open it up? I've tried beating on the side of the C but to no avail. The top joint is loose completely. I just can't get the lower one off.

Yes I took the nut off. :flipoff2:
 

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hi-steer ninja
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Discussion Starter #18
throw the pickle fork in the trash first of all, they should only be used if the part is being replaced, to remove any tapered fit ball joint or tie rod- back the nut off all the way only leaving it on enough to keep it from falling off when it comes loose, next strike the knuckle perpindicular to the axis of the ball joint to shock the taper, it may take several strikes depending on the size of your manness, the bj or tie rod will fall loose...
kyle, i use a 3lb sledge and have to hit it quite hard several times, but it will come loose...
 

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Got them off! :D They'll go out first thing in the morning. About 3 days behind my original schedule but oh well, not like anything else on the truck is ready to go. :laughing: I didn't get paid today either like I was expecting. Hopefully tomorrow.
 
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