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Discussion Starter #1
1) Anybody have a diagram how to wire a ford 100 amp internally regulated alternator? I'm going from the external unti and was wondering what, if anything, I should do with the old regulator wires and alternator wire that used to go to the regulator.

2) Is there any way to eliminate the ceramic ballast resistor from the wiring of a duraspark II?

Doug
 

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Doug,

I am not sure about the 100 amp internally regulater unit but you can check out my web site for the write up. My guess it is the same. You can also look on the webmap on classicbroncos.com and look under 3G.

Basically you eliminate all the wires for the voltage regulater and the green (I think) wire that went to the voltage reg from the ign. switch now goes directly to teh same color wire on the new alt. The other 2 wires on the go to the positive side of the stater solnoid.

web address www.kramerproducts.net

link is on the bottom left.

Regarding the ballist resistor. I am not sure but I ran mine with out one for over 2 years with no problems. The idea is that the resistor allows max volts while cranking then it drops to something like 9-10 volts to feed the coil during normal run.

Galen
 

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hey cack :flipoff2:

I'm converting the truck to duraspark 2 and using the tfi coil. dont plan on using the resistor, i'll let ya know if it fawks up

I think the ford alt. wires up just like a gm. 1 wire to a switched power source, then the charge wire to the battery + on the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
allright... I am going to take pictures tonight...

I have 4 connections on my alternator...

one main post...

2 male slot connector things labeled STA and FLD

and a small ground post...

I'm sorry for my ignorance, but what am I suppoed to do to wire them? My old main wire off the old alt is hot when the ignition is on... I assume it isn't what needs to be run to my starter solenoid.

Doug
 

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That sounds just like the one on my truck

I think its externally regulated

is this it?




the wires trace back to what I think is the voltage regulator. If this is the case that would explain your crazy electrical problems

this is what I think the voltage regulator is

 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm not sure.... Lee swore he hadn't run a regulator... My alternator isn't exactly the same as that...I'll take pictures... my attachments are all on the top of the alternator... not hookups on the back.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #9
allright I think it's external;ly regulated...despite being advertised as internal... can I use my stock regulator with this 100 amp unit, or do i need to buy something diffrent?

Doug
 

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Doug,

solve all your problems and go to a junk yard and get a alt from a 93-94 (possibly other years) Ford Taurus and bolt it in your truck.
Its internally regulated, 130 amp, should bolt right in and cost about $10 - $20.

I can sit at idle with EVERYTHING turn on in my truck (offroad lights, stereo, head lights, on board air, CB, heater, rock lights, etc) and the lights don't even dim. The volt meter never moves.
It's a piece of cake to hook up. You just cut the green/red wire from teh ignition at the voltage regulater and rip the rest of the regulator wiring out then plop in the alt and connect the green/red wire to the green one on the alt and the other 2 to the positive solnoid post. Thats it (althought you may want to put in a curcuit breaker)

Web write up www.kramerproducts.net

Galen
 

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I realize this isn't answering anybody's questions, but I can't help but ask....

What's the big attraction to the 3G? I'll admit that everybody in the FS Bronco crowd thought they were the best thing going a few years back, but eventually folks realized that they don't put out much (50A??) current at idle, and rarely put out anywhere near their rated 130A wide open. The bearings are prone to failure, the regulator isn't easily replaced, and the tiny internal fan doesn't help matters at all. I know one guy in particular that used to burn up two of these things every trip.

OTOH, the 100A large case is just as cheap and plentiful, has a nice external reg that's easily swapped in case of failure, massive bearings and external fan, and it puts out ~60A at its TURN ON RPM, 80-90A at idle, and 100+ wide open (mine does 109A... that's a rebuild from Advance).

Is this sort of like all the EB kidz swapping in "sweet Ford pumps from the pickups" which just so happen to be the noisy, underpowered POS that we're chucking in favor of the Sag pumps? :D

:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm really not wild about the 3g swap...why do I have a 100A large case in right now?

I think I finally got it figured out... maybe...seems to not be charging as well as I would have expected...bu my battery is in bad shape after the recent workout I gave it. Optima's hate being drained without a good kick charge.

Either way when I turn on my three electrical fans my volts drop down to around 11 and I have o rev the motor or turn off the fans to get th volts to come back over 12.5... any reasons folks?

Also... I will NEVER run a pickup pump... I have a bracket and saginaw pump begging to go on soon...I'm just too lazy to swap it right now.


Doug
 
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