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Discussion Starter #1
For those of you out there with the capability to machine flat tops, how are you setting them up? Do you use the surface that the spindle bolts on to clamp to a jig or angle iron? Essentialy my question is, do you make the flat part 90* from the spindle face? My buddy asked me to machine his for him and I told him I would since he's flying me out to CO to help him build a suspension. There's something wrong with that last statement:D

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The top is not 90 from the spindle suface, IIRC, it was a compound angle. If you are going to do multiple knuckles, then make up a jig. I only did one, so I was time ahead just indicating the suface in on a compound sine plate.... If that last sentence didn't make sense, give it to a a machinist......
 

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Make a jig.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Awesome, thanks folks. Guess I'll make a jig:D I'll get the chips flying this weekend.

I'm assuming the 1.75 hole is the ball joint hole. After I kick the spindle mounting surface in 10* I don't need to rotate the knuckle forward or backward, or do I?

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The machinist that did mine just made a quick jig out of AL plate, and used a angle vice.(Simple, and cheap was the objective I think)

One minor problem with this jig from what he said...the AL flexed/vibrated while being machined flat...less than ideal I would assume.

But they did come out just fine.
He had said what he would do if he had to do them again, but I forget what that was.
Hes on here every so often so maybe he will speak up as to this particular set up.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the pic MJ. The jig is no problem. I'm just going to make the same plate out of .5" cold roll. It'll have its own base and a piece going from the top of the plate to the base. All welded together of course. That's how I made my jig for shaving 60's but I used .625".

My big question is do I need to rotate the knuckle any or do I just go level?

Thanks for the help folks :beer:

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EasyXJ said:
My big question is do I need to rotate the knuckle any or do I just go level?
Just go level, there is no advantage to the angled surface. It helps slightly while pushing on the arm but hurts when pulling on the arm (stresswise) so IMO it's a wash. Totally :rainbow: and I have no clue why the OEMs did it that way other than they forgot that they have to steer both directions :rolleyes: I machined both of mine horizontal (perpendicular to spindle mounting surface) which is easy to do with raw Waggy knuckles. Just like the second pic actually except I didnt have an angled vice. To stop the chatter while machining we simply shimmed under the lower ball joint area and she was nice and solid. Cut like butter but cripes that stuff creates dust. Even with a 2" ram assist they never slipped. Makes it nice for the TRE angles too. Plenty of material there... just keep making passes until you have enough surface for the arm to seat cleanly and completely. Studs will still line right up with the bosses underneath and full thread engagement because the angle in question is really only big enough to be an annoyance and nothing else :D
 

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Hey 4Bangler, can you send me that cad file? I will be doing all this work over the summer and this would be helpful.
Thanks
 

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I am the guy who did Maine Jeepahs. I just did 4 more sets including a couple of jeep sets that required both to be done.

I did it completly different this time. I turned down a pc to the 1.750 diam of the ball joint holes. I cut it to about .250 less than the height of the knuckles. I then put a 90* angle plate bolted to the table with the upright indicated in on the X plaine. I drilled a .500 hole down the length of the stock that I turned to 1.750. I then ran a 1/2 -13 threaded rod down the center into a T nut in the table. Put a knuckle on the 1.750 stock so that the spindle surface is flush with the angle plate. I then put a nut onto the top of the rod and firmly bolted the 1.750 stock to the table. Then remove the knuckle and set the center of the stock as X Y zero. Put the knuckle back on and run a flat pc of stock over the top of the upper ball joint hole to bolt down the knuckle.
This setup allows you to just unbolt that top bolt and change knuckles easily without have to re-find zero every time. The angle plate keeps x zero and the round stock keeps y zero. Using this method I did 5 knuckles in the time it took to do 1 my old way. And they came out better due to being held firmer.
 

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Eric Ruhl said:


Just go level, there is no advantage to the angled surface. It helps slightly while pushing on the arm but hurts when pulling on the arm (stresswise) so IMO it's a wash. Totally :rainbow: and I have no clue why the OEMs did it that way other than they forgot that they have to steer both directions :rolleyes: I machined both of mine horizontal (perpendicular to spindle mounting surface) which is easy to do with raw Waggy knuckles. Just like the second pic actually except I didnt have an angled vice. To stop the chatter while machining we simply shimmed under the lower ball joint area and she was nice and solid. Cut like butter but cripes that stuff creates dust. Even with a 2" ram assist they never slipped. Makes it nice for the TRE angles too. Plenty of material there... just keep making passes until you have enough surface for the arm to seat cleanly and completely. Studs will still line right up with the bosses underneath and full thread engagement because the angle in question is really only big enough to be an annoyance and nothing else :D
I went ahead and cut the knuckle at the 10* angle for two reasons... 1) I only had to mill the passenger side because the drivers had the stock setup already cut at 10*. 2) The Parts Mike Super Arms I'm using already have a 10* relief angle cut into them. So, 10* one way on the knuckle and 10* the other way on the arm = 0*.
 
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