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Discussion Starter #1
I was planning on building a simple lame build with just long arms and an 8.8. On a jeep I bought for $650 with a rebuilt motor and trans.
it isn't pretty. But I am planning on building a mild crawler/expedition rig with one tons under it. So I bought a set of 02 f350 axles.
a Dana 50 and 10.5 disk all around and 4:10s. $300. Not to bad buy my book, now I am aware it isn't a sixty, and may buy one down the road if I run into issues with it. So I stripped it and the 10.5
topped the 10.5 with a Clayton truss and ruffstuff perches

Next I cut off all the 50 brackets and welded up some ruffstuff link tabs on the housing. I preheated post heated and welded them on with my arc and 7018 rod.
once my coil spring perches show up I will weld them on, will I run into issues out moving the coil springs out an inch and a half per side? I am trying not to hack the housing to hell to get the mounts on closer.

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't see why the dana 50 would be a problem at all.

What tire size and rim backspacing are you thinking?
Honestly right now I am looking at doing 37X12.5r16.5 military bfgs on h1 stock rims. Then running a conversion spacer to get the 8X6.5 pattern. Simply because this is a budget build. And because down the road I want to go to 37X12.5 pbrs in bias of course.

Oh and I'm waiting on steering and track bar parts now. After those come I can throw it in and party on. I will probably be welding the front and rear diffs, then adding hydro assist.

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Discussion Starter #4
Will out boarding my spring by an inch and a half per side effect anything? I'm asking because of the pumpkin being in the way.

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VerticalScope Sucks
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Will out boarding my spring by an inch and a half per side effect anything? I'm asking because of the pumpkin being in the way.

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Shouldn't be a problem. You won't likely even be able to notice it. You can probably get them a little farther in if you build the coil bucket on the axle the right way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am trying to sit them down directly on top of the link mount so I can keep it as low as possible. 3.5 inch springs all around

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In my WJ I welded the lower coil mounts directly on top of the leaf spring pads of the D50 - was exactly the right spacing and solid. On the drivers side I had to cut a flat in the round spring plate to get it up close to the pumpkin and centered on the leaf spring centering bolt hole. After I trimmed the lower spring isolator a little everything fit up nicely. On the passenger side I just centered the spring plate up on the leaf spring perch and burned it in. Easy Peasy.

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Discussion Starter #8
In my WJ I welded the lower coil mounts directly on top of the leaf spring pads of the D50 - was exactly the right spacing and solid. On the drivers side I had to cut a flat in the round spring plate to get it up close to the pumpkin and centered on the leaf spring centering bolt hole. After I trimmed the lower spring isolator a little everything fit up nicely. On the passenger side I just centered the spring plate up on the leaf spring perch and burned it in. Easy Peasy.
This was my plan. Your build is actually what got me off my ass and deciding to buy the axles. Then I found this set for $300 so I said fuck it. A week later my brackets are on.

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You going to run fender flares to help keep it street legal for expedition use or what are you thinking there?

I've got a '91 dana 60 sitting here and I cant decide if I want to narrow it or not. I also plan on running 37" and keeping it legal for multiple states.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You going to run fender flares to help keep it street legal for expedition use or what are you thinking there?

I've got a '91 dana 60 sitting here and I cant decide if I want to narrow it or not. I also plan on running 37" and keeping it legal for multiple states.
When it gets caged I will be doing a piece of tube over the fenders. Till then I will be using flexy flare. http://m.ebay.com/itm/282034903465?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20150313114020&meid=6e5f7fa8fb5d462989e546bef3b74af0&pid=100338&rk=4&rkt=9&sd=361206551507&_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_mwBanner=1
37s I'm planning 5 inches of back spacing, so it should be about as wide as a stock 99-04 superduty with the flares it should be legalish.

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Glad that I could help you along in your build. The Ford SD axles and the 3/4-link long arm suspension are working out well for me so far. Swapped in 4.56s over a month ago and been DD'ing it to work the bugs out. Need to rebuilt the t-case, build front bumber and spare tire carrier, and re-clock the pitman arm to equalize right/left steering arm sweep.

Good luck with your build, let us know how it's going.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did you do anything for a sway bar? I would like to have one do to the 3-4 hour trecks Id like to take.

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Sway bars are on my list of things to do...going to use the stock ones but need to hook up. Going to buy the Rustys front sway bar lower attachment bracket and find appropriate length links. In the rear I've welded the sway bar mounting brackets to the axle tubes but don't like the position - going to cut them off and do again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Sway bars are on my list of things to do...going to use the stock ones but need to hook up. Going to buy the Rustys front sway bar lower attachment bracket and find appropriate length links. In the rear I've welded the sway bar mounting brackets to the axle tubes but don't like the position - going to cut them off and do again.
This is my plan as well but I was going to make my own mounts because I'm cheap. And I like the fun. How are the 4.56s? I have 4.1 or 4.3 gears I'm pretty sure. I 1 turn of the hubs gets 4.25 turns of the pinion.

I also should note. I am doing a radius arm suspension around the exhaust because I am lazy and it will flex and ride fine

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4.56s are good with the 35s and 4.0L - a lot better than the 3.73s that were in the SD axles when I got them. 4.88s would be even better if it was going to be my primary wheeler or riding on 37s but I've got two CJs for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So my 4.10 or 4.30 should be OK with the 5.2 and 36 or 37s. Most likely 37s

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Discussion Starter #17
No pics yet but the coil mounts are ready to go on. Next after that is figuring out how I want to do my track bar/upper link mount

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My Dodge Ramcharger with a built 360, granny low manual trans and 4.10s works well however, can't imagine a 318 in that situation doing the same. At least 4.30s but if you plan on 37s I'd strongly suggest going lower - 4.56s or 4.88s. Put your drivetrain combo into a gear ratio calculator and see where each R&P ratio puts you both at trail - riding speeds as well as on the highwa. You will be much happier having gears that are too low rather than a set that is too high which results in engine lugging and/or causing the trans to hunt between D and OD gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This is my old xj 44 eb front with a 8.25 rear and 4.56s I loved it. Trust me I know I want deeper gears but at this point I want to have a set of wheelable axles and tires rather than have geared axles sitting under the rig with no rubber


Also buying some 37s on h1 beadlocks I found localish

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Discussion Starter #20
Last night I got my front all setup to go under minus upper link and the track bar mount. To I plan on bringing the zj down to the shop and getting right into cutting her open.

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