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Discussion Starter #1
I live in houston, among the humid of most humid areas and want to do a bare sheet metal body. Goin for the kind of 'delorean' look on my 85 toyota pick up.

Question is how well will just a satin finish clear work on bare metal? Id hate to do all the sanding and blasting to get it down to bare and spray the clear only to have it start flake off in a few weeks or so? Is this crazy or will it work?
 

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Well I have never cleared over bare metal,

but I would use House of kolor SG-100 (intercoat clear) as your base and then spray your clear and it should be fine.
 

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I live in houston, among the humid of most humid areas and want to do a bare sheet metal body. Goin for the kind of 'delorean' look on my 85 toyota pick up.

Question is how well will just a satin finish clear work on bare metal? Id hate to do all the sanding and blasting to get it down to bare and spray the clear only to have it start flake off in a few weeks or so? Is this crazy or will it work?

I have cleared bare metal many times, first DO NOT USE THE SPRAY CAN CLEAR, it will flake off after a short time. Also make absolutly sure the metal to be cleared is cleaned of all oil residue, than give it a quick scuff with something like a scotch brite pad. Use a good clear like the PPG (161 I think is the correct number) do 2 to 3 medium to heavy coats and it will last.
and looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
awsome, thanks for the input. If anyone is interested ill post some pictures once i get some good forward progress underway, starting tomarrow.
 

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Not that it really is a option for you, but podwer coated clear over sandblasted steel comes out pretty bitchen........
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i thought about taking the cab and bed to our powder coater to get it blasted to save me the sanding. In the end though i think id end up putting just as much work into stripping the cab down, only with more missing parts...
 

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Sorry I did not give you better info on my first post the meds from back pain :smokin:

If you are looking for a good long lasting finish and you have preped it good use House of kolor stuff


2 med coats of SG-100

and add FAO1 (flattening agent) to UFC-35 poly clear and use 1 med coat and then 1-2 wet coats and your done.


And yes post some pic's when you are done
 

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Sand or polish the metal to the finish you'd like to preserve (or leave the metal in the condition/sheen that it is in now).

Wipe down with PPG DX330 wax and grease remover or Matthews Paint 45330SP wax and grease remover. Matthews is a sign paint line owned by PPG. You can PM me for the location and number of your nearest dealer.)

Spray a medium wet coat of Matthews Spray Bond. This is a clear adhesion promoter for "hard to adhere to metals" like stainless, aluminum, and galvanized and is especially useful when sanding those surfaces is not a good option and the customer wants a clear finish. Think of this product as superglue for paint.

Topcoat with Matthews clear in any sheen you want from High Performance Gloss Clear all the way down to flat. (Or clear it with any PPG automotive clear, obviously.)

Wet sand and buff to a mirror finish and enjoy.

We've had a few customers that have done this and it's always interesting. My favorite was the guy who bought a classic VW bug and hated how many coats of paint it had on it. He stripped it, polished it, and cleared it this way. You can't miss him coming down the road now. It looks like the top half of a stainless steel ball bearing.

Lots of custom bike builders are going for this look on tanks and fenders as well.
 

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x2 i have a friend who did this to a early bronco worked out very nice......something different is always cool:grinpimp:
 

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PPG made a clear a long time ago that was made for aluminum, I think the # was something like DU 72 {not 100% sure of that} I beleive with some of the above mentioned adhesion promoters this clear would be your best bet , cause it was made for direct app to metal.
 

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...I believe with some of the above mentioned adhesion promoters this clear would be your best bet , cause it was made for direct app to metal.
But the point of an adhesion promoter is to make a surface that clears can stick to. And if there's an adhesion promoter involved, it's not really a direct to metal application anymore.

Good job on suggesting PPG though! :grin:

BTW--for the Original Poster, the PPG Platinum Automotive Refinish distributors in the Houston area include...

Scott Day Paint & Supply at 713.981.4184 and Johnson Paint at 713.946.4887. I'm working off of slightly old info to get those names, but the Platinum distributors of PPG auto paint listed above should be a good start.

You can also go to www.matthewspaint.com and check the dealer locator to find a Matthews dealer in your area.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so i have about a day into this and it is going wayyyy too slow! This fender took around 3 hours alone! I used a DA and just hit all the tight spots by hand, its not that its hard work it just takes FOREVER!

I spent about 3 hours messing with a friends sandblaster but the thing was more trouble than it was worth, but was awsome when i could get it working for sure. I filtered out some play sand i bought from lowes since it was 3$ for a fifty pound bag as compared to 30$ for a 20 pound bag of aluminum oxide. And yes I wore a resperator :shaking:

Any tips to get this thing moving along a little faster would be appriciated, i have tried quite a few methods and types of abrasives. Some work and are just slow and the others scar the metal to much....which is pretty much the opposite of what i want to do here
 

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Try some sort of paint stripper. You would probably still have to DA everything but all you paint would gone.


Will
 

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You could use aircraft paint remover. About $20 for a gallon at autozone. It will remove all paint down to bare metal in a couple minutes. Worked very good for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You could use aircraft paint remover. About $20 for a gallon at autozone. It will remove all paint down to bare metal in a couple minutes. Worked very good for me.
Now thats what im talkin about:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok, soilantgreen had some good info up top but the closest paint store is a ppg and the folks there really dont seem to know much so does anyone know what ppg would call their adhesion promoter rather than "matthews spray bond"?

im getting ready to spray finally, here are some of the last pictures i took.
 

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looks cool, theres a neon around town here that is bare metal, but its not clean or clear coated just sanded to bare metal.
 
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