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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Pirate,

I wanted to start a build thread here as I will need some advice on some parts of a build that I haven't conquered yet (gears, steering, and eventually a cage).

I have had this cherokee for about 9 years now. Got it unmolested 4.0/AW4/231/D30/8.25. Lifted, regear/truss, locked, 5 speed swap, OTK steering, winch bumper, tire carrier, dana 300 swap w/4:1 twin stick, rear 14" shocks.

That gets me to here. I am pretty happy with how it does on trail with my club and I was going to buy a tow rig and trailer and call it good. Well a tow rig and trailer aren't in my budget so I figure throwing SD axles at it will allow me to still get to the trail, wheel, and drive back.....A to B. Simple right?

The end goal will be a 37"-40" radial, SD axles, mid arm 3 link, on somewhere like 4"-4.5" of lift and still cruise on the interstate :D

I'll put an order in soon for 5.38 gears, spartan locker front, and detroit locker rear. Took me about two days to clean off the 05 SD60 brackets :shaking: I can push them to the back of the garage now and start pulling the front 60 apart.









 

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Discussion Starter #6
Have you considered your steering setup yet? 90% done with 06 SD swap and not 100% in love with my steering


I have researched getting the knuckle flat topped, tapped, and having an arm added to the top but I don’t think the OEM ford wheels will allow it. Too much back spacing.

I will order a cross over steering kit from ruff stuff with heim joints and a TRE at the pitman arm. I will likely do a triple shear stack on the passenger knuckle similar to craigdiesel. Try to push the drag link end as high as possible for a flat link angle.


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Discussion Starter #7
What size are those stock steel wheels?

They look like they could take a weld on beadlock easily.


They are 17x7 offset is just short of 6”. I think you could get some weld on bead locks as long as the bolts that hold the ring on are closer to the center than usual. I can get some more measurements if you want.


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They are 17x7 offset is just short of 6”. I think you could get some weld on bead locks as long as the bolts that hold the ring on are closer to the center than usual. I can get some more measurements if you want.


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Thanks,

I have different set of stock 17s like this


The wheel center is actually formed out to the front bead, and there is no space for bolts (maybe if you used a 3/8" inner ring tapped it would work)

Your wheels look to have a separate center with a gap/space for bolts to stick into.

:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Do you like the hidden winch bumper setup like that? Contemplating it for my own...

It has been one of my favorite mods to date. It sticks out 1” from the plastic grill panel so you lose nothing clearance wise. It stinks not being able to see the cable on the drum but I have only done pulls that are a few feet so it isn’t that big of a deal.

It was a bitch to fab but super rewarding.


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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Update. Found some 37s which can be mounted on my SD wheels. Will have that swapped over shortly. 3.5" RE coils in the front are not going to cut it so I'll order some 4.5" coils from amazon and rock on. Still need to cut open those rear wheel wells.

Time to put this baby up on jack stands...



 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nice build. Do you have enough adjustment to move the front axle forward?
Feeling the love here. So the front axle will "stretch" as far as centering the coils on top of the axle tube. IIRC that is like 2 inches? That should package steering and trac bar super close. This would follow suit with most axle swaps.

I consider that almost necessary just to get 37" tires away from the back part of the wheel wells up front. I got steering stuff for black friday. So I will be able to roll the front axle around and mock it up at full bump.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Some churn recently. Sold the old axles. I ordered some Barnes4wd hiem steering and an artec knuckle bits. The artec kit is supposed to be for full hydro steering but it was on sale and if you are familiar with the goofy taper on the passenger knuckle this artec kit is machined to fit it.



Should be able to stack the passenger side hiems then weld a plate on the knuckle for double shear. Not seeing any issues besides the close contact on the OEM ford steelies. Might grab a socket head cap screw for the smaller diameter in way of the wheel.



I needed more room on my shelves so I threw on the ruff stuff diff covers that were taking space. While I was in there I realized the front 60 is 4.10 gear. Thought it was 3.73



I plan to pull the shafts to rebuild the u joints with full circle clips. I also need to see what the status is of the lock outs.



I’ll be taking a short hiatus on ordering parts but I will be tackling some of the hefty body work and re working the brakes. My single diaphragm booster is being replaced with a WJ booster and a 99 2500 Dodge Ram master cylinder.







 

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Discussion Starter #19
I may have missed it but what are we doing for brakes?


I plan to use the stock calipers and disks that came on the ford axles. By my research a WJ booster and a 99 dodge 2500 master cylinder ought to be good for the input side of things.

My stock axle brakes sucked balls when I was on 35s-37s.


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I plan to use the stock calipers and disks that came on the ford axles. By my research a WJ booster and a 99 dodge 2500 master cylinder ought to be good for the input side of things.

My stock axle brakes sucked balls when I was on 35s-37s.


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When I switched to full size axles I converted to Chevy half ton calipers only because I had a 1990 F350 years ago with horrible brakes. I was hauling a huge camper on steep grades in CO. I am using a dual stage ZJ booster rotated 180 with a shortened push rod.
 
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