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Discussion Starter #21
When I switched to full size axles I converted to Chevy half ton calipers only because I had a 1990 F350 years ago with horrible brakes. I was hauling a huge camper on steep grades in CO. I am using a dual stage ZJ booster rotated 180 with a shortened push rod.


Interesting food for thought. I need the parking brake in the rear especially with a manual trans. I have heard the reputation of super duty calipers being trash.

Should calipers be bought at the dealership? Rebuild the original calipers?


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In my WJ I'm running 2004 SD axles (D50/10.5 Sterling) with the stock WJ brake booster and master cylinder, and a rear adjustable proportioning valve - has all the braking power I'd ever need and pedal does not blow through it's travel like you'd think. Probably because the WJ was 4 wheel disks stock with a little extra system volume over the XJ master cylinder. If the Dodge truck master cylinder bolts up to the WJ booster then I'd say go for it. Stay with the stock Ford brake parts - stupid to try to cobble together other brakes when the factory stuff works great and is more than enough to slow down a Jeep.
 

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I used a dodge ram van 2500 master out of a 2000? It was a direct bolt in that locked up my zj like you wouldn't believe. Stock booster and direct bolt in was enough for me.

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Grabbed some second hand fox coilovers. 16” rear 14” front. Burned in front stiffeners and my tie rod with offset heim joints. Put the front axle at stuff. Will require front steering box relocation.


















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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
After a few months break from making progress (I blame work and traveling) I am back at it. I have all of my links, joints, and brackets from barnes4wd for the front 3 link and the rear triangulated 4 link. I have some metal to move the steering box forward and make hoops for the front coilovers. NWF finally dropped off the Eco box which I was waiting on so I can get everything back under the jeep to find where links can even fit. So it's time to get this thing underway.

At this point it would be nice to have it back on 4 tires :D

Bought a new 6 pinion planetary for the eco-box


On-to the np231 input shaft


All the np231 parts are harvested




Enduro joints are massive


 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Gracias. Things have been painfully slow. Vacationed a lot this summer. Got married in September. Family/friend events all fall. Just now getting back into the swing of things. I am turning 27 in January so life is a blur.

I have all of the parts I need to at least get this mobile again minus brakes all around. I really want my suspension to be “sub-frame like.” I have spent a lot of time literally just looking under the Jeep picturing my options. I suppose I will be putting my rear 4 link crossmember right behind the rear 205 output. Front crossmember is in the stock location at the moment. Front links will be rather long. Roughly 39”-40”. Not sure what the final rear lower link length will be.

Estimate of front link separation. Rear links should be slightly less.





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Hurry up and get the front finished so I can steal some ideas. I really want to see how the Barnes shock towers play out.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Found me one of them big ol holes in the floor. Pretty much want to cut out the entire tunnel and redo it from the trans back. Also, an np205 is too fucking heavy... :grinpimp:

 

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Discussion Starter #34
Tres link







Currently rebuilding the unibody around the steering box.


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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Snagged a YJ pitman arm for a touch extra of tie rod clearance.



Front is completely disassembled.



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how far are you stretching front axle? And what tire size you building for?

I'm hoping to push mine forward 1.5 to 2" and keep gear in stock location...we'll see

build looks great so far
 

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Discussion Starter #37
how far are you stretching front axle? And what tire size you building for?



I'm hoping to push mine forward 1.5 to 2" and keep gear in stock location...we'll see



build looks great so far


I believe the front stretch is 3 inches. I currently have 37s mounted to the wheels on the axle but am leaving a smidge of room for 40s. I wanted to have maximum up travel so I think that warranted the steering box relocation. If you can sacrifice some up travel I’d say you don’t need to move the steering box.

There is always the Astro steering box with the forward facing pitman arm but that puts your tie rod forward another 12 inches from factory. I wasn’t really wanting to push the axle thattt fat forward.


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Discussion Starter #39
Frankenstein shaft made extra stock from a spare shaft I had in the bin.





The 14s look to fit nicely with the barnes4wd shock towers. Thinking 5 up 9 down?




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