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I love the concept, I love the drivetrain but I think you're going about this backwards.

Instead of the design the chassis and making the drivetrain fit you should be doing it the other way around. If the truck is truly utilitarian you need to have a vehicle that easy to service, easy to maintain, and easy to assemble so you don't have to come up with a creative fix to get around something you forgot.

With that, here's some food for thought.

Engine:
  • Coolant entrance and exit locations - What sides do the coolent enter and exit on? With that you can find and off the shelf unit, once you get that, you might just be able to use off the shelf hoses as well
  • Accessory locations - What side is your alternator on? Because you're going to want to put your battery, fuse block and wiring on that side to keep wire runs down. It makes things simpler and cheaper.
  • Maintenance locations - Where's the oil drain? At the front? Back? on the side? Is the fuel filter on the top or the side? You're going to want to put it and the oil filter where they can be changed easily.
  • Intake and exhaust - Does the intake come off the side on straight up like a 4.0?
It also wouldn't be a bad idea to have the engine easy to service and inspect.

If it was an ultra 4 car you'd be tearing it down after each race to maintain it, you'd also have the drivetrain stuffed in there for performance sake, since it's not and you're going to be doing this stuff in frame, make it easy on yourself plan the drivetrain with systems and build around it. Form follow function.
 

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
Never mind insulating it, why would you heat an unenclosed vehicle?!
You never drive with the windows rolled-down and the heater on? Using a heater in an open-top vehicle isn't always as dumb as you might think. Especially if you duct the heat to where you want/need it most. The cab is going to be partially enclosed. Firewall, floorpan, and some sheetmetal around the bottom half of the cab, plus a roof and look at how those wing windows are going to help direct air around the cab. You might think it's funny that I'd enclose the bed before sealing-up the cab, but think that's probably what will end up happening. Will make a removable camper shell. Kinda like this:




And see all these sewing machines? Would be pretty easy to make doors and windows for the cab if/when I ever want to enclose it.




My view is based on where I'm from (England, where it rains fairly frequently and is cold a lot of the time) so I guess it doesn't rain often where you are, or get very cold. I don't see the motorcycle analogy - you ride a bike in the open because you either ride in the open or walk. Here, you're designing the truck from the beginning to be unenclosed and uninsulated, which in my admittedly limited experience means a noisy, wet, cold (or hot) and raw ride. I guess (coming from a CJ5 and the M109) you're used to a pretty rough ride, but why not design a little more creature comfort in to make it something that you won't need to wear outdoors gear and ear defenders to drive? Each to their own - obviously - but it seems weirdly limiting for no good reason. I assume that this thing, rather than the Allroad, will eventually tow behind the Deuce?

And before you suggest that I might not choose to drive an unheated, poorly insulated open-top vehicle in bad weather, I DD'd a 1968 E-Type (XKE) Roadster over the last winter. :flipoff2:
The only reason I need any kind of four-wheeled vehicle right now is to haul stuff around. Mostly my dogs. I'd be on my dirtbike with a backpack. If it wasn't for them I wouldn't even be building the motorhome.

Designed the Tacoma to haul two dogs, but then my two dogs had puppies. Tried to make it work. Rebuilt the whole back half of the truck and added a folding moto ramp that enclosed the back part of the bed. It worked alright, but found out pretty quickly that it wasn't ideal.








So I bought the astrosafarimobile and that was a lot better. More space than we needed most of the time. But it still wasn't big enough to haul dirtbikes in, and didn't particularly like driving it.




Decided to replace the kiddieraper with the allroad. But the Audi is not a truck, and ultimately that's what I'd prefer to be driving. The whole idea with the Audi was to take the pressure off, so I don't have to build anything too quickly. Would like to take my time with something like this, and having another vehicle to drive in the meantime makes that possible. And yeah, this would be the second vehicle that I'd eventually like to take along with the motorhome.


I love the concept, I love the drivetrain but I think you're going about this backwards.

Instead of the design the chassis and making the drivetrain fit you should be doing it the other way around. If the truck is truly utilitarian you need to have a vehicle that easy to service, easy to maintain, and easy to assemble so you don't have to come up with a creative fix to get around something you forgot.

With that, here's some food for thought.

Engine:
  • Coolant entrance and exit locations - What sides do the coolent enter and exit on? With that you can find and off the shelf unit, once you get that, you might just be able to use off the shelf hoses as well
  • Accessory locations - What side is your alternator on? Because you're going to want to put your battery, fuse block and wiring on that side to keep wire runs down. It makes things simpler and cheaper.
  • Maintenance locations - Where's the oil drain? At the front? Back? on the side? Is the fuel filter on the top or the side? You're going to want to put it and the oil filter where they can be changed easily.
  • Intake and exhaust - Does the intake come off the side on straight up like a 4.0?
It also wouldn't be a bad idea to have the engine easy to service and inspect.

If it was an ultra 4 car you'd be tearing it down after each race to maintain it, you'd also have the drivetrain stuffed in there for performance sake, since it's not and you're going to be doing this stuff in frame, make it easy on yourself plan the drivetrain with systems and build around it. Form follow function.
Thanks for posting. That's all good advise and I appreciate that you're trying to help, but have got all that stuff covered. Only wondering what's given you the idea that I'm 'going about this backwards'?
 

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The two main criticisms that stand out to me:

  • I'm a bitch and I want to be warm inside my car.
  • I want it to look like a production vehicle.
Even though Jesse has stated that it will not be full bodied and will not have any effort put into making it look like a traditional vehicle.

I get why it's hard to wrap your heads around it, they've been filling cars with empty space and foam for decades. I could imagine a similar reaction when they went from fendered to full bodies in the late 40's.
 

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Holy crap three pages of why you shouldn't build this, really???

I'd rather have read through three pages of in actual build up!

It's different, Jesse obviously has the skills, and he walks his on path anyways. If you don't like it go find another post to clog up with your nay saying.

If it suits your needs and you like it just build it.
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #70
halfcab Jeep
Yeah that's pretty cool. Actually just bought a couple of those trailers and my buddy is going to use the chassis of one for a project so we'll have one of those beds left over.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
How would the rendering look with the spare tire on the hood? Might be a good use of that space.
Too high. If there was more space between the back of the cab and the wheelwell, I'd probably stand it up on the driver's side but the dimensions I'm working with don't really allow for that.
 

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I like it. I think it would work.

You mention moving the cab forward vs moving the drivetrain back. I'm not sure that's what I would do, I agree the drivetrain should move back some but I'm not sure the cab should move forward.

This will be a two seater essentially, correct?

How do you plan on installing and working on the drivetrain? Removable crossmembers? Just looking at the tube work, and I'm not seeing how you would do this without removable pieces.
 

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that trans and t case you have, did you just pick it up off ebay? i saw a auction for that set up and it had my brain trying to fit it in something. good luck with the build, and screw the haters, its your junk not theirs.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I pretty much agree....reminds me of a golf cart....or some UTV. Lines just dont flow well IMO. I like the concept though.
Sorry to disappoint.
that trans and t case you have, did you just pick it up off ebay? i saw a auction for that set up and it had my brain trying to fit it in something.
Nope. Wayne Hanson hooked me up with those parts. They're from one of his old Jeeps. But someone pointed out that splitting gears with an SM420 is going to be pointless and when I looked at the ratios, realized they were right. Would just end up with a bunch of redundant gears. Also have an SM465 with a D18 adapter. That might be a better choice. Have to look at the numbers to see if this little Kubota can pull the splits between all those gears. Or maybe I'll just break down and buy some kind of 5spd, but definitely want to keep the D18. Mostly because the offset rear diff will allow me to mount the two upper links lower on the axle, which will give me more suspension travel. Compression travel is limited by the fact that I want to maintain a low bed height, something close to a regular pickup.
 

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What? A non-JK-buggy-build? Fuck me, you do understand this LS-engine-and-cruiser-hood-4x4.com right? Why would you even think you could build something original and post it here? No 40" MTR's? Come on dude...You need to get yourself a small black beenie, grow a scraggle goatee, get some coors light for your beer coozie and park right in the middle of the trail to watch the other 100 fuck-knuckles from your local "jeeper" club flex their shit out. :homer:Carry on.
 
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