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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done, seen, or heard of anyone taking a explorer 2wd trans and mating a samurai transfer case to it via the slip yoke?

I was thinking if I could take the slip yoke and cut it off and weld a flange to it to mate "bolt" to the input flange on the samurai transfer case. I would have to fab up a cross member to support the samurai t-case.

The reason I thought of this is I have a 2wd explorer and kinda want a project again. I used to have a couple samurai's one a daily and the other was caged. I have since sold the samurais but have a few spare parts left laying around that I have started selling. But one piece I still have is the stock geared t-case. I figured with some fabrication I could take the pair of wagoneer d44's I have and put under the explorer.

Let me know what you all think on taking the slip yoke and converting it to a slip flange.
 

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I think even an Explorer V6 will eat a sammy T case alive. But I could be wrong.

With as cheap as an A4LD with T case is at a scrapper, I wouldn't waste my time. Sell the sammy parts and buy the stuff that already works. If you go forward with this, I think you're going to work way too hard to put stress on the output bushing in the trans and on the input in the T case. In the end you'll still have an A4LD and a weaker transfer case than a 1350 or 1354.

D44 SAS is a good idea. Explorer 8.8 is already a good axle, so you may want to consider keeping it, but bolt patterns match the 44s.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I understand your on the worry about the little transfer case. I know they can take some abuse. Especially if you get a cradle for them. I know a few people have the 4.3 chevy swaps and a few toyota swaps in the samurai's. with that said I've also seen a stock 1.6l tracker swap into a samurai split a tcase.

The reason I'm wanting the samurai t-case is because of the range of gears I can get.
 

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I understand your on the worry about the little transfer case. I know they can take some abuse. Especially if you get a cradle for them. I know a few people have the 4.3 chevy swaps and a few toyota swaps in the samurai's. with that said I've also seen a stock 1.6l tracker swap into a samurai split a tcase.

The reason I'm wanting the samurai t-case is because of the range of gears I can get.
First, bear in mind that more power in a Samurai might work because they don't weigh anything. Add more weight (i.e. Exploder) plus more power, and your friction forces (weight, traction) go up significantly more than in the featherweight Sammi, thus increasing potential to grenade the case.

Second, you do not want to mate flat flange to flat flange because that is not enough degrees of freedom to absorb movement. Keep the slip yoke as is, then use a double cardan H-yoke of same u-joint size, and a u-joint flange at the Sammi case. Basically the absolute shortest 2 u-joint driveshaft you can possibly make. It will still allow slip at the slip yoke, and the double u-joint will absorb all other variations in position from your cradle setup.

Third, I'm with Dr. Danger....why redesign something that an OEM application already exists for? K.I.S.S....keep it simple silly.
 

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As mentioned, it sounds like a great way to blow apart a sammy t-case with stock gearing. Adding in deeper gears seems like an even quicker way to kill that case.

Stock 1.3L Sammy is around 60 hp/76 ftlb

Assuming your luck sucks and have a 3.0 in the Explorer, those were rated around 140 hp, and 160 ftlb. The OHV 4.0 was 160/225

With the weight of the Ex, extra power of V6, it sounds like you are asking to kill the case the first time it gets bound up on something.

Junkyard AL4d with a 1354 case (manual shift versions can be found) is the easy button here. And it'll actually live in that rig.
 

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Stock 1.3L Sammy is around 60 hp/76 ftlb

Assuming your luck sucks and have a 3.0 in the Explorer, those were rated around 140 hp, and 160 ftlb. The OHV 4.0 was 160/225
Jesus that's bad. Even the lame 3.0 has more than double the power of a Samurai. :laughing:
 

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Jesus that's bad. Even the lame 3.0 has more than double the power of a Samurai. :laughing:
I know right? I've had a couple, and the stock Sammys moved good enough for what they were intended for due to their near zero weight. But want to laugh a bit more? Let's talk about the "Big Block" 1.6 specs:

1.6 8v is 80/94 hp/tq
1.6 16v (The hot rod motor) 95/98 hp/tq


People kill the stock cases with those motors, but I am betting it is more due to shock loading than power.

My honest guess is that you could probably make the sammy case work, but at best, you're going to wind up with something that you're going to have to drive with such a light foot it won't be fun. While you can avoid shock loading with the automatic, as soon as you get bound up on something and that torque converter starts doing it's magic, something will give in that driveline and my money is on the T-case.

Selling it while it's worth something, or pick up another Sammy :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As mentioned, it sounds like a great way to blow apart a sammy t-case with stock gearing. Adding in deeper gears seems like an even quicker way to kill that case.

Stock 1.3L Sammy is around 60 hp/76 ftlb

Assuming your luck sucks and have a 3.0 in the Explorer, those were rated around 140 hp, and 160 ftlb. The OHV 4.0 was 160/225

With the weight of the Ex, extra power of V6, it sounds like you are asking to kill the case the first time it gets bound up on something.

Junkyard AL4d with a 1354 case (manual shift versions can be found) is the easy button here. And it'll actually live in that rig.
Yeah its a 95 with the 4.0 OHV and 4r55e trans. I would want a manual t-case. I know the electric motors are crap on these little cases. Its hard to find a good used transmission around these parts it seems and harder to find one that is 4x4.

Just an FYI, Lowrange will give you $250 for that tcase core.
I was not aware of this. Do I just call them up and let them know? I haven't been on their website in a long time.

I know right? I've had a couple, and the stock Sammys moved good enough for what they were intended for due to their near zero weight. But want to laugh a bit more? Let's talk about the "Big Block" 1.6 specs:

1.6 8v is 80/94 hp/tq
1.6 16v (The hot rod motor) 95/98 hp/tq


People kill the stock cases with those motors, but I am betting it is more due to shock loading than power.

My honest guess is that you could probably make the sammy case work, but at best, you're going to wind up with something that you're going to have to drive with such a light foot it won't be fun. While you can avoid shock loading with the automatic, as soon as you get bound up on something and that torque converter starts doing it's magic, something will give in that driveline and my money is on the T-case.

Selling it while it's worth something, or pick up another Sammy :D
Yeah the shock loading I can see being a killer for sure. It was hell on U-joints and drive shafts in general on my samurai. And the passenger side t-case mounts. It had the Calmini 5.14:1 gears in t-case and 3.73 diff gears.

My thoughts were to also go with a 4.56 (maybe even 5.xx) diff gear to help with getting the rotating mass of the wheels and tires in motion. So its not so reliant on the samurai t-case. Stock diff gears and 6.5 low range t-case gears I can see it breaking in no time.

But yeah the picking up another samurai would be awesome but I have kiddos now. So I gotta be able to take them and momma with me. So selling it might be what I do, or the Lowrange route.

Thanks for everyone's input.
 

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The trick to the Sami case is the spine, the stock housing was just not designed for 6.5:1 gears. They hold up well to guys with low power and weight. But they are also abusing them probably more than you will.

The Sami case also has a reduced high range, which works great for the tiny engines, but I doubt you would want a ~1.8:1 high range in a normal rig. Even 3.73s would turn into 6.71s :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The Sami case also has a reduced high range, which works great for the tiny engines, but I doubt you would want a ~1.8:1 high range in a normal rig. Even 3.73s would turn into 6.71s :laughing:
Very true. I didnt think the high right was that low of a gear. I thought it was a 1.2x or something.
 

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Very true. I didnt think the high right was that low of a gear. I thought it was a 1.2x or something.
It's 1.409 in high range.
 

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Depends on if you plan to re-gear the t-case. the 4.0 and the weight of an explorer wont be a good combo for deep gears. Even if you went with a billet sami case (miles ahead of a spine), all the gears made these days are chinese metal and ive seen quite a few guys strip the teeth off the gears in samurais. If you keep the factory gears, it will be much stronger. billet case and stock gears will probably hold up well and you get a reduced high range for 33's without needing to re-gear the axles. You just dont have a deep low range. 4.16 gear set has a 1.6 high range if i remember as well and those are decently strong. the price for that kind of setup is NOT cheap though.
 
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