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Discussion Starter #21
I couldn't get a super accurate measurement holding the dipstick next to the tube with the bends and tight quarters. But, it appears my fluid level is approx. 0.5-1" above the top of the pan.

anxious to see how the block off plates work. less over fill would be needed with ALL of the fluid staying out of the cavity.
Thank you, that's perfect!

I'm curious to see how it does with the blockoff plates as well. I'll know next weekend!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Update:

When I repaired my t-case output shaft I installed the small block-off plates mentioned above as well as installing the correct sized input shaft seal on my t-case adapter plate.

This combination has eliminated the fluid starvation problem that has plagued my buggy on vertical climbs. It works like a champ now.

I have one more ride in two weeks and then I'll likely go back and JB Weld the plates in rather than RTV. I'm just worried that the heat and fluid may finally push the plates out.

I probably won't report any further results to this thread unless something catastrophic occurs.
 

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Thanks for the update.
 

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Reviving this thread. Hopefully to spark some further discussion on the matter.

I am finishing up a 3.4 swap with the a340/inchworm/4.7. I was previously plagued with atf starvation when the rig was pointed at the sky. I had recently made a flat plate rear pan and blocked off those lower galleys entirely so fluid couldn't go back into the cavity at all.

Well after getting everything together and running the motor and allowing the fluid to make its way throughout the trans, I checked my plug on the rear flat pan, and noticed there was fluid in there! So I sacrificed some atf and pulled the rear flat plate off while the motor was running. I inspected and saw that fluid is fed in to the cavity along the output shaft of the a340h right near the rotor for your magnetic speed sensor.

So in entirely blocking off those lower galleys the fluid feeds in along the output shaft of the trans, and then has nowhere to feed back through causing it to just fill that empty cavity.

Has anyone else entirely blocked those lower galleys and experienced this?

Also, does anyone know if one of those 3 oil tubes in the trans pan feeds up to provide the fluid that passes along the output shaft to the tcase section?

And one last FYI, there is another passage hidden up closer to the output shaft near the speed sensor rotor. It feeds between the trans and that cavity as well. So if you were stood up on your tail enough times, fluid would make its way back through this route as well (unless you blocked it off too, of course).


Appreciate any input! Thanks.
 

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I'm just brainstorming here so bare with me (I have a AW4
In my crawler)

If you make the block off plate and allow for a small return hole at the top of the plate, what would be the issue? It would turn more into a baffle, holding the rear full of fluid while the front stays inside a operating level. Put the nose in the air, the rear is still full and fluid isn't lost in the front, starving the pump. Small ports fill the rear on flat ground, the rear chamber just fills till the fluid makes its way out the small hole at the top of the baffle, refilling the front section.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I've noticed that fluid still gets to the rear as well, but I still haven't had an issue with starvation I did before blocking off the lower plates. Once I blocked off the plates the trans has pretty much been a non-issue compared to before. I haven't even drained the rear fluid. Maybe I'll go do that to see how much comes out to add to this thread as an update.

The only issue I have now is that I'm not 100% sure that the trans is going into first gear. Mine is in an FToy and is not ECU controlled. The previous owner setup some wiring with relays that allow it to run "right" and shift manually. I can lockup the TCC with a button too.

Anybody know the wiring for these?


So in entirely blocking off those lower galleys the fluid feeds in along the output shaft of the trans, and then has nowhere to feed back through causing it to just fill that empty cavity.

Has anyone else entirely blocked those lower galleys and experienced this?
 

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I've noticed that fluid still gets to the rear as well, but I still haven't had an issue with starvation I did before blocking off the lower plates. Once I blocked off the plates the trans has pretty much been a non-issue compared to before. I haven't even drained the rear fluid. Maybe I'll go do that to see how much comes out to add to this thread as an update.

The only issue I have now is that I'm not 100% sure that the trans is going into first gear. Mine is in an FToy and is not ECU controlled. The previous owner setup some wiring with relays that allow it to run "right" and shift manually. I can lockup the TCC with a button too.

Anybody know the wiring for these?
RADesign sells manual shifters for these trans. Check out their site, he has wiring diagrams to wire the 2 shift solenoids and the TC lock solenoid.

I have the shifter in my rig. It works well. I wired it so I can do manual override or have the ECU take over and shift like normal.

Its really pretty simple, the connection on your trans that has 3 wires coming from it is the one you want. All you have to do is apply 12v power to the solenoids to have them work.
 

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Is this an A340H or A340F we are talking about?
 

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Is this an A340H or A340F we are talking about?
you askin me? or is this a general question about the thred?

Were talkin about the A340 that come behind a pickup, 4runner or taco.....in regards to the wiring, the wires themselves may be different colors, otherwise your lookin at 3 solenoids and 3 wires.

H has an integrated chain drive T-case and shares fluid with the tans.

F has a removable T case and keeps fluid separate.

There is also an A340E

Here is some good info.
http://nebula.wsimg.com/30182ccd591cef6c72b28029a72e4a33?AccessKeyId=B9ABA896CE942FEBA752&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
 

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Discussion Starter #32
RADesign sells manual shifters for these trans. Check out their site, he has wiring diagrams to wire the 2 shift solenoids and the TC lock solenoid.

I have the shifter in my rig. It works well. I wired it so I can do manual override or have the ECU take over and shift like normal.

Its really pretty simple, the connection on your trans that has 3 wires coming from it is the one you want. All you have to do is apply 12v power to the solenoids to have them work.
perfect! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I drained my rear pan yesterday, and about 1qt came out. I ran it over full, but couldn't tell you how much because I don't have a dipstick. That being the case, I expected more to come out of the back pan when I drained it.

I don't doubt what you've explained above, but it looks like it's a minor issue. Yes, some fluid will get back to the rear section of the trans, but it shouldn't be a lot. Blocking off the plates far out weighs the downside.

Would you mind measuring the length of your dipstick from tip to flange, and tip to hash marks? Then I'll know for sure what I've got going on. That would let me verify the fluid levels and track what you've explained. I'm going on a ride in a couple of weeks.
 

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The only issue I have now is that I'm not 100% sure that the trans is going into first gear. Mine is in an FToy and is not ECU controlled. The previous owner setup some wiring with relays that allow it to run "right" and shift manually. I can lockup the TCC with a button too.

Anybody know the wiring for these?
3 solenoids- 1 and 2 for the shifting and 3 for the tc lockup.
On =12v. Off =0v

1 on, 2 off = 1st
1 on, 2 on = 2nd
1 off, 2 on = 3rd
1 off, 2 off = 4th
 

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3 solenoids- 1 and 2 for the shifting and 3 for the tc lockup.
On =12v. Off =0v

1 on, 2 off = 1st
1 on, 2 on = 2nd
1 off, 2 on = 3rd
1 off, 2 off = 4th
Nice bit of info. I have a 5 speed sitting in the basement but am now considering an auto.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
3 solenoids- 1 and 2 for the shifting and 3 for the tc lockup.
On =12v. Off =0v

1 on, 2 off = 1st
1 on, 2 on = 2nd
1 off, 2 on = 3rd
1 off, 2 off = 4th
Further notes from the reading mentioned above...

To diagnose which wire is Sol1, Sol2, or TCC...
Engine running, shifter in Drive:
12V to Sol1 = trans shifts to 1st, and vehicle moves easily with throttle
12V to Sol2 = vehicle accelerates sluggishly
12V to TCC = engine should stall

Sol2 malfunction: Shifter in "L" - trans will never shift out of first gear.
Sol2 malfunction: Shifter in "2" - trans starts in 1st and eventually shifts to 3rd
Sol2 malfunction: Shifter in "D" - trans starts in 1st and eventually shifts to O/D.
 

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Further notes from the reading mentioned above...

To diagnose which wire is Sol1, Sol2, or TCC...
Engine running, shifter in Drive:
12V to Sol1 = trans shifts to 1st, and vehicle moves easily with throttle
12V to Sol2 = vehicle accelerates sluggishly
12V to TCC = engine should stall

Sol2 malfunction: Shifter in "L" - trans will never shift out of first gear.
Sol2 malfunction: Shifter in "2" - trans starts in 1st and eventually shifts to 3rd
Sol2 malfunction: Shifter in "D" - trans starts in 1st and eventually shifts to O/D.
FYI the TC won't lock in first gear, at least on my set up.
 
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