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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got them installed, still some tuning to do, but now I've got to dig my test pit deeper to see how much flex I'm getting.

<IMG width=480 height=360 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/active buggy3.jpg">

<IMG width=480 height=360 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/active buggy4.jpg">

<IMG width=480 height=360 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/active buggy 5.jpg">

<IMG width=480 height=360 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/active buggy1.jpg">

<IMG width=480 height=360 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/active buggy2.jpg">

I goofed on the shackle angle on my first shot, and they reversed, but the springs still worked because it's between two springs. After moving the springs back 1.5" they work good now. Side to side feels real solid too, don't think it'll need a track bar. Right now I have them mounted with u-bolts, but I'm going to build a bracket that tucks tighter to the frame as the tires rub the u-bolts/bracket on stuff.
 

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Man, that is sweet! I'm thinkin about doing something like that too. How's the on road ride? What is that plate that the u-bolts are bolted to (above the frame)? Stock u-bolt plate? Thanks
Ryan
 

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I looks good but I was thinking you would do them different.
My buggies ride close to how yours are sitting already. I was thinking it would cantilever past the end of the frame. or you would have a spacer or something between the buggy and the frame where its bolted on.
Well see how that works and maybe I'll take it to the next step since my rear axle is linked up..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Don't think it'll need a limiting strap, if it droops too much, I'll close the spring clamps I have open. The springs are the rear half of my '79 stock 48" toys, 3 leafs. The clamps are the stock toy axle clamps turned 90 degrees, they clamp the full length on either side and are pretty solid. The springs are spaced down 1/4" from the frame right now, and since I now think it'll work good, I can bob the rear as far as I wanted and the frame and they will be cantelevered past the end of the frame. I've still got some shock placement to do along with my u-bolt flip, buts its headed in the right direction. I also softend up the front AP's I'm using in the rear by one leaf.
 

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sorry about the Q's, but your pix are a little fuzzy. how long is your buggy spring, what do you mean by 'active' and why the all pro fronts??

are you definitely gonna get away without a track bar??

kool setup, im interested in trying a buggy on my allpros...my rear flex(droop) is kinda lame.. <IMG SRC="smilies/bender.gif" border="0">

[ 10-22-2001: Message edited by: *mOuNtAiN gOaT* ]
 

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Watch backing up when your wedged in the rocks my buddy just bent his springs up real good cuz of the buggy springs. Turned them into pretzels.
 

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Do yourself a favor. Make a u-bolt to clamp the buggy spring to the frame in the rear where the shackle is. When you get to a rock waterfall and you can't climb it because your rearend starts to bounce because the buggy spring is absorbing all of the energy generated by the t-case instead of transfering it to the tires, clamp the buggy spring to the fram so you will climb right up. That way guys like me will not have to wait behind you all day because you can't climb anything <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
I did the EXACT conversion you are doing, 2 years ago. I even installed torque arms to center the rearend. After a year of Fu$king around with em, I $hit canned them and was able to climb again.
 

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Originally posted by desertoy:
<STRONG>Do yourself a favor. Make a u-bolt to clamp the buggy spring to the frame in the rear where the shackle is. When you get to a rock waterfall and you can't climb it because your rearend starts to bounce because the buggy spring is absorbing all of the energy generated by the t-case instead of transfering it to the tires, clamp the buggy spring to the fram so you will climb right up. That way guys like me will not have to wait behind you all day because you can't climb anything <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
I did the EXACT conversion you are doing, 2 years ago. I even installed torque arms to center the rearend. After a year of Fu$king around with em, I $hit canned them and was able to climb again.</STRONG>
thanks for saving me the wasted efforts!!! i love to climb stuff....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by desertoy:
<STRONG>Do yourself a favor. Make a u-bolt to clamp the buggy spring to the frame in the rear where the shackle is. When you get to a rock waterfall and you can't climb it because your rearend starts to bounce because the buggy spring is absorbing all of the energy generated by the t-case instead of transfering it to the tires, clamp the buggy spring to the fram so you will climb right up. That way guys like me will not have to wait behind you all day because you can't climb anything <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
I did the EXACT conversion you are doing, 2 years ago. I even installed torque arms to center the rearend. After a year of Fu$king around with em, I $hit canned them and was able to climb again.</STRONG>
Why did you have to center the rear? Were the springs twisting to the sides? Do you think a traction bar w/front shackle would help or shock placement? How about a simple 3 link setup? Was it mostly wheel hop due to the buggies blowing you off the verts? Thanks
 

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Originally posted by BrianR:
<STRONG>Why did you have to center the rear? Were the springs twisting to the sides? Do you think a traction bar w/front shackle would help or shock placement? How about a simple 3 link setup? Was it mostly wheel hop due to the buggies blowing you off the verts? Thanks</STRONG>
I centered the rear because I was worried about side to side stability. I never tried it without.
I think a 4 link with front shackles would work good.
The reason I had so much wheel hop when trying to climb is the buggy springs made everything too soft and because of the upward angle between the axle and where the front of the spring pack pivited, it would tent to want to walk the axle under the chassis and raise the rear and then unload, or bounce. This is called anti-squat. and the buggy leaf amplified it.
 

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no offense but I thought buggies had been determined <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> a long time ago.too much wheel hop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think a lot of people still use buggies, and whether it's buggies, dual shackles, blocks, or what ever else you come up with, you'll have to iron out the bugs cause they all have their drawbacks. The main reason I'm trying this way is to have as short of a spring with as much travel as I can get so I can bob the rear as much as possible. If toy rears could be set up in reverse to keep the double wrap at the front and the short half to the rear without redrilling the pin hole, I'd have gone that way. It's all an experiement, subject to change, just like my front/front shackles.
 

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that's cool, I've done a lot of experimenting myself <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
<IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 
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