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Discussion Starter #1
So hopefully if i have enough funding i will be starting the project fullsize within the next week. I'd just like to know what you guys think of the plan. And the truck is a 1991 ford-150. I bought a dana 60 full floater rear and a closed knuckle dana 44, i'd like to run 36's think i can go bigger without problems? Then for the SAS would it be easier to use a f-250 3/4 front end and just swap it to my truck or build the shackles etc myself? Then i'm undecided on what to run for gearing in the diffs? Any ideas? I've also been looking around and have read that with my year of truck when the SAS is done, that problems occur with the drive shaft hitting the tranny cross member when being flexed. I haven't seen any threads of what do to. I don't wana use bump stops and kill alot of the flex. Idea's? Ill post pictures and such, of the build when i start on the old girl.
 

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sounds like you did not do much research on axles. the rear 60 is probably the weak 16 spline variety and the closed knuckle is a leaf sprung low pinion design which is also not desired in a axle swap.
 

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If you decide you'd like some better axles, let me know. The closed knuckle is really not that good and most won't even consider it. I've got a super duty 44 and 60 that came from a 79 F250. Both axles have 4:11 gears which should work fine. Oh, and this 60 has 30 spline axles. If your interested I'd take $500 for both axles and they are complete ready to bolt in. The SD 44 is a leaf spring axle but wedges and arms can be put on if you want to stay with coils.

Not sure where you're at but I'm in East Tennessee. Close to Knoxville.
 

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toss that d44 in the trash, i didnt listen to everyone on here and got myself one when i did my 78 f150 and the closed knuckle 44 is fawking junk not to mention the damn seals for the end of the knuckle are $70 each and its hard to find stub shafts
 

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You bought a dana 60 rear and a closed knuckle 44 front intending to use larger tires?

:laughing:

That hopefully answers your question.
 

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toss that d44 in the trash, i didnt listen to everyone on here and got myself one when i did my 78 f150 and the closed knuckle 44 is fawking junk not to mention the damn seals for the end of the knuckle are $70 each and its hard to find stub shafts
its hard to say it, but the TTB 44 may be better off than the closed knuckle 44. Mines taken a beating so far... (but trust me, the 60 is coming).

go with one-ton stuff if your going to do it. Not the wanna-be 3/4 ton stuff. Its worth it. I regret not doing a 60/14bolt a long time ago...



 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well lucky for myself i had a talk with some friends scraped the idea for the d44 and rear 60 new plan as mentioned above is the 14 bolt rear and a dana 60 up front. I had only put a deposit down on the axles and manged to get all my money back.
 

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I had only put a deposit down on the axles and manged to get all my money back.
Good. You'll thank yourself down the road.
 

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its hard to say it, but the TTB 44 may be better off than the closed knuckle 44. Mines taken a beating so far... (but trust me, the 60 is coming).

go with one-ton stuff if your going to do it. Not the wanna-be 3/4 ton stuff. Its worth it. I regret not doing a 60/14bolt a long time ago...



hell ill run my dana 28 TTB before i toss a d44 closed knuckle in again :laughing:
 

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Just my opinion but before I'd put much money into a front 60 and rear 14bolt, I would look into a set of rock wells. You can get a complete set with 6.71 gears for the cost of just the 60...or at least around here anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I haven't done a lot of research on the rock wells but i've heard just the price of them to have them rebuild would be more then the cost of a 60.
 

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I haven't done a lot of research on the rock wells but i've heard just the price of them to have them rebuild would be more then the cost of a 60.
Here on the East coast a front 60 runs anywhere from a $1000 to $1500. Then you buy gears and lockers and many are replacing the knuckles and you can drop an easy $2000! I can pick up a set (one steer and one rear) of rock wells in Nashville that have new seals and boots and they come stock with 6.71 gears for $1500. Pop the top and weld them up and shave the bottoms and you're good to go. So cost wise, I'd go rock wells. At least that is what I'll be doing in a year or two...

Like I said, if you just want a decent set of axles, I've got a complete set ready to bolt in for $500.
 

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Here on the East coast a front 60 runs anywhere from a $1000 to $1500. Then you buy gears and lockers and many are replacing the knuckles and you can drop an easy $2000! I can pick up a set (one steer and one rear) of rock wells in Nashville that have new seals and boots and they come stock with 6.71 gears for $1500. Pop the top and weld them up and shave the bottoms and you're good to go. So cost wise, I'd go rock wells. At least that is what I'll be doing in a year or two...

Like I said, if you just want a decent set of axles, I've got a complete set ready to bolt in for $500.
You didn't look hard enough. I got my d60 almost r2r for $200. Put some SRW hubs on it for $100 and I got $300 into the whole thing bolted into my truck.

Hell there is a vendor here that will sell you one for $850
 

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Hmm Well I'm gonna run a D44 front and a 9 inch rear on 35's in my Bronco, might keep the 8.8 if someone offers me enought cash for the 9 inch. You have to be frugal when you look at axles or I am that why its taking me so frickin long got a HP D44 for 150.00, not to bad.
 

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You didn't look hard enough. I got my d60 almost r2r for $200. Put some SRW hubs on it for $100 and I got $300 into the whole thing bolted into my truck.

Hell there is a vendor here that will sell you one for $850
:D I'll buy ever front 60 you can find on the East coast for $200! A friend just sold two front 60's at $1200 a pop. Around here they're like chicken's teeth.
 

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rocwells are great if you can handle the mods needs to fit them, and spanky wheels.
Mods are really not that bad. You can turn the top to put it on which ever side you need. The hubs can be turned in which actually make them 1-1/2" narrower than a 60 and wheel centers are not hard to come by at all. Just saying, putting in a rock well is really no harder than putting in a 60, depending on what you're putting it in. As in this case...not much. The bottom side is the weight! Those sumbitches are heavy...:D
 

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wtf. why you so soft tonight? you had to get laid... :flipoff2:

Pffft, everybody knows I'm Mr. Sensitivity :D

Rockwells are great and all, but lets face it, most people just don't NEED them, including the op.
 

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Pffft, everybody knows I'm Mr. Sensitivity :D

Rockwells are great and all, but lets face it, most people just don't NEED them, including the op.
There's a lot of things in life we just don't need...but what fun would that be :D When was the last time you "needed" a bj? Sure was fun getting it though now wasn't it :laughing:
 

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if you can get away with one tons do it. rocks cost a lot more than most people would think, even i thought it was going to be cheaper.

new wheels, bigger tires, new drive shafts, more lift(to clear the 3rd), brakes, steering, maybe lockers, if you buy rebuilt rocks you will most likely spend around $2500 or over

and lets not forget almost everything after market for rocks cost more than after market for 60's

for the same price you could have bad ass 60's that are much lighter.
 
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