Bigdude....little man syndrome.....BAWAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!
(I instantly thought of that same pic.....poor Spaceghost, poor, poor Spaceghost)
I think Bigdude needs to admit that that was a funny-ass smack by the newbie...nice.
Now for all the other shit shoveled up by Grunt YJ....just shut up and take it like a man, I mean really, relax, it's just the interweb.
By the way, Bigdude is on the Jeep Tech payroll as a newbie smacker, so don't take it personally, he's been conditioned to respond to terms like "more bouncy".....kind of like a bull seeing red.
And now, enough Shit-Shat, lstes get back to the tech, I run the standard MORE SRS, and while I have some DW issues of my own, my caster is right on with the stock specs for my '81 Waggy Dana 44 front, the stubby SRS adds a little more postive caster, posibly making turning effort a little more difficult, but also helping tracking a little on axles with very little or no positve caster built in. How much the stubby SRS changes your caster really depends on what springs you're running.
The stubby SRS also hurts your pinion angle, not too much concern on a Jeep with a 3' front driveshaft, especially if a HP axle is keeping your pinion from becoming and plow point, but still worth considering. Especially with a front SRS/buggy spring setup, care needs to be taken that pinion angle doesn't change do drastically at maximum droop that the u-joint's operating angles are exceeded.
The stubby SRS also effects the roll-axis of your front suspension, tilting it down towards the rear of the vehicle and up towards the front, which if exaggerated, could cause some excessive roll steer under articulation.
If you need to shim to put your caster and pinion angles back in spec, make some steel shims with an off set center pin and either bolt them to the spring, or weld them to the axle perch, I'd probably bolt them on for trial and error, then pull them out and weld them so they don't stress the center pin any more than they have too.
If you end up with more than 6 degrees of shim you may want to look into rotating your knuckles.
If you're worried about getting the right driveshaft, do it the right way, put ti together, run it up a (ick) Ramp, and measure, nobody can tell you what shaft will work for your rig, especially with all the useful information you've provided (engine, trans, t-case, front axle, lift, wheel-travel, etc)
Oh yeah, hey newbie :flipoff2: