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Discussion Starter #1
Well, here's the specs:

3 cylinder, 2 stage eaton compressor 16 cfm @ 175 p.s.i., 18 cfm @ 100 p.s.i.

5hp, 1 phase, 25 amp motor (baldor or leeson, haven't purchased yet)

Homemade 3/4" intercooler built from baseboard heat elements

Homemade water seperator

30 gallon tank

Motorguard moisture/particle filter

motor runs off pressure switch like normal, or can be ran non-stop with the unloader valves in the pump heads (keeps the pump pumping air in and out of the intake valves to keep it cool under hard use, when not needed for filling the tank)

There's a check valve installed on the water seperator, and the pressure switch has a bleed off valve that will run from the switch to the line between the pump and check valve. When the pressure switch shuts the motor off, the bleed off valve lets all the pressure off the pump, to help the motor start it again.

Some pics:






The white and blue hose is just their for mock up to show where lines will be ran. I'm using AN-10 stainless braided hoses for the connections.

I still need to buy the motor ($260), and the magnetic starter ($160), and some AN fittings ($125) to finish it, so it'll be a bit before it's done. My wallet is still recovering from what I've spent so far.

It should provide enough air for the sandblaster/plasma/sander, and be VERY dry air.
 

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You spent all that money and have a 30 gallon tank?

I understand space savings and all but your connecting the thing to a big heat sink.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I have a 22x24 garage, and every square inch of wall space is used, except for what's under that window. I would love to have a bigger tank, I just don't have room for it. I think the intercooler will help a lot for keeping it cool. I'll probably be adding a fan to it later.
 

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Nice build. If you pick up a motor with overcurrent protection (farm duty motors generally have it) then you dont need a true starter but only a magnetic contactor rated for about 20 amps. I picked up a used Honeywell 3 pole 50A on ebay for $15 for my compressor & its worked great. You can usually find new starters on ebay for less than $100.

http://www.indiana-fan.com/ has the best price on sheaves (pulleys) that I could find. I ordered thier import belts & they sent me goodyears.

30 gal tank won't be a problem, it'll just cycle more.

If my Schulz 10hp pump ever bites the dust, i'll be replacing it with an Eaton.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Well, I have a little more done to it. I'm debating putting it on wheels, but want to run it first before I do, to see how shaky it is. I still need to get a motor and starter.

I'm going to get an aluminum manifold to put on the regulator, and run two 1/4" couplers, and one 3/8" coupler on it.
 

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We just got a new 3 cyl 5 hp single stage compresser at work, it vibrated quite a bit. All of our equipment is on wheels. We drain the sump every day and were having trouble getting our hands under there to open the sump. The decision was made to get some rubber mounts from McMaster Carr more to lift it an inch and a half than to quell the vibration. At the same time I installed the rubber mounts I switched the oil to synthetic. The difference in the noise afterwards was very dramatic. I can't say if it was mostly the oil, or the rubber , but the combo really quieted down the machine. I don't have the catalog with me, but they are rubber mounts 1.25 high with metal on the top and bottom. I got the syn oil from McMaster also.
 

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Sooo, how many cats can you fit in that bucket? I hear the cats are much better than hamsters for compressors :flipoff2:


Looks good, what's it going to end up cost wise v/s a pre assembled? Or was it a must build my own because there is no stock sized application that will fit due to size constraints?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sooo, how many cats can you fit in that bucket? I hear the cats are much better than hamsters for compressors :flipoff2:
All 3 of mine, they'll run fast if they know what's good for them.:flipoff2:



Looks good, what's it going to end up cost wise v/s a pre assembled? Or was it a must build my own because there is no stock sized application that will fit due to size constraints?
Honestly, it's pretty much a wash. You hit the nail on the head though, this build was due to size constraints. I will also have the intercooler/water seperator/Motorguard filter/air regulator/better plumbing/etc. that wouldn't come with a pre- assembled one.

I figure I'll have $900-1000 wrapped up in it when done.

The main thing was making it in the smallest package that I possibly could. That's why there are more hoses than normally needed, etc. I could have eliminated some hoses, but at the expense of taking up more space.

This is going right where the red compressor is. I shit you not, it is the ONLY wall space left in my garage, period. I was in the middle of rearranging when I took this picture, ignore the mess. I *might* have to actually make a bench a bit shorter (length-wise) to fit this compressor in, it's going to depend on how tight I can get the motor to the pump.

 

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For the specs of your build I think you're coming out way ahead. Anything comparable that puts out that kind of cfm would have been well over $1,000 without all th extras. When I was at Northern the other day it seemed like anything that was over 15 cfm was $1400 or more.
 

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Just a thought but I'm not sure casters are a good idea if you want it to be quiet.. I recently put my compressor on rubber isolators from McMasterCarr and WOW what a differnce. So much nicer to work around now. The caster are likely to carry the vibration into the floor and make the kind of racket mine did before the isolators. Just a thought but I understand the need to roll it around. Maybe rubber tired casters.
 

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Put it on tilt casters so it'll be on rubber feet unless you tilt it back to a certain point to move it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No more updates yet, I've been working on my car trailer lately. I bought the compressor directly from eaton. I think it was $280+$100 in shipping or so? I know I got the pump, pressure switch, pilot valve, and pressure relief for about $450 shipped from them.
 

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Where did you the materials for your homemade intercooler?

I put my air compressor up high, so it doesn't take up any floor space.

Good luck.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #17
off ebay. It was $40 shipped for 2 5' sections of baseboard heat element. I have 8' ceilings in garage, and a short hip roof, so nothing fits in the attiic. Plus, it's a slab house so all plumbing/heating/etc. is up there, too.
 

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Who needs a giant f'in tank when you got 18cfm @ 100psi?!?!?

Sweet build, very unique.
Anyone who uses it for more than one task at once or uses it with a plasma regularly :flipoff2: Or someone who doesn't have two 220v outlets and needs one for the plasma and needs more air to prevent switching every 10 seconds :p Lots of reasons 30g isn't enough!

You could always get a 60gal tank and stick it in the rafters :evil:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Anyone who uses it for more than one task at once or uses it with a plasma regularly :flipoff2: Or someone who doesn't have two 220v outlets and needs one for the plasma and needs more air to prevent switching every 10 seconds :p Lots of reasons 30g isn't enough!

You could always get a 60gal tank and stick it in the rafters :evil:
I don't know how many hands you have, but I have a hard time using an air compressor for multiple things at the same time by myself.

What plasma do you know of that takes more than 18 cfm:confused: Mine sure as hell doesn't.

220v outlets? I have four of them in my garage, not a problem.

60 gal tank in the rafters? I have a hip roof. it's maybe 4' high inside if you're lucky. Then there's a 16" HVAC duct running the length of it right down the center. Then there's the bracing. Then there's the gas lines. Then there's the water lines. Then there's the electrical. Then there's the fact that even laying on the rafters and sliding as close to the outside wall as possible, you're still about 1-2' from being able to reach it with your fingertips. Then there's trying to reinforce the rafters and getting to the load bearing walls to do so.

No, I really can't put it in the rafters, my setup will work just fine.
 
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