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OK, I got it figured out. What a brain fuck!!! At least I figured out one way of doing it... there may be other ways to accomplish the same thing so I am interested in seeing patooyee's parst list and schematic.

Not including tubing and fittings using the parts in my solution, it comes up to about $112 per shift rail. I'm not going to state what parts I e-assembled to make it work because I don't want to steal patooyee's thunder in his own thread. :flipoff2: I'll post it up later if it is different than what patooyee did.:evil:

EDIT: SHIT!!! patooyee posted the diagrams while I was typing my post.
 

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I've had major issues building cable shifters so mines apart right now..............Might have to do this now.

Thanks for the idea
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
I would love to help you make this a kit form with Lazer cut brackets. I too have my 203/205 setup for cables but this would resolve a lot of other issues for me as well.

I have delt with Clippard before as well and they are a top notch company to deal with.
Thanks, but I just don't have time in my life to sell and support these things. I'm working 18 hour days every day right now opening a new restaurant and there's just no way I could take on the business that I know this would bring. That's kind of why I posted it for free so everyone can use it. At least this way it will be more difficult for someone else to profit off of my idea. Plus, there's so little to the kit in the form of custom bracktry. The stationary chassis mount will be custom for every application, so that's out of the picture. The only other thing that you can't get from Clippard is the two nuts that you weld together to hold the rams end to end. I searched for a suitable coupler in the fastenall catalog but it doesn't exist. So I guess if you wanted to go ultr-bling, you could laser cut a coupler and then machine the inside threads, but how much are people really going to pay for a cupler when they can just weld 2 nuts together? Especially when the bling willnot be visable to the naked eye?

Plus, I am not in the 4x4 business. If I sold this it would be the only component I sold. I don't care to sell any others and I know it wouldn't bring me into retirement early, so who cares, right? I'll give it away. 4x4's are a hobby to me, not work. I want to keep it that way.

So ya'll just have fun. If someone copies this and sells kits, I guess I'll kick myself in the ass. But at least I'll know it was a good idea then. Ya'll just do me a favor if you use this idea by posting up to let me know. It'll make me feel good to know someone is using them. Especially if you go to comp or TTC or something with it.

J. J.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
OK, I got it figured out. What a brain fuck!!! At least I figured out one way of doing it... there may be other ways to accomplish the same thing so I am interested in seeing patooyee's parst list and schematic.

Not including tubing and fittings using the parts in my solution, it comes up to about $112 per shift rail. I'm not going to state what parts I e-assembled to make it work because I don't want to steal patooyee's thunder in his own thread. :flipoff2: I'll post it up later if it is different than what patooyee did.:evil:

EDIT: SHIT!!! patooyee posted the diagrams while I was typing my post.
So is mine the same as yours? :)

J. J.
 

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Dude that diagram is the shit. Is that solidworks :flipoff2:


















J/K dude, I love your idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Oh, and VTW, if you have an auto, obviously don't shift the t-case into neutral, put it in gear, and then try to shift the t-case back into gear. This will only result in loud grinding noises.

Also don't put the t-case in neutral with the trans in neutral and then throw the trans into park. That is because, even in neutral, an auto trans has enough friction inside to spin the drivetrain if there's no resistace. (Such as brakes on or an obstacle keeping your tires from moving.) Hence, if everything is in neutral and you throw the trans into park, the drivetrain will be spinning and then result in another slightly different grinding noise as your auto trans park pin tries to mech into its hole.

Neither of these situations are automatic death to any components. I'm stupid and do the thing with park all the time, my trans is unharmed. I've done the first instance one where the t-case grinds and that is scary scary enogh to make me not do it again. It's noteworthy to sya though that either of these scenarios are possible no matter what type of shifter you have.

J. J.
 

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Yeah.... that's what I had come up with only I "used" a different cylinder and a different spring return 4-way valve. Your parts list is about $3/per rail cheaper than my parts list.

THANKS again dude!!!! I would have never thought of using two cylinders back to back to make a 3 position cylinder. Once I had the key idea from you, the rest of the pieces started dropping in place.

I like the Speedaire cylinders like I already have at home (have two of them) but they are more than twice as much as the Clippards.

So, where did you mount the air piloted 4-way valves? Up under the dash somewhere?
 

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that works out pretty good... So let me break this down barney style and you tell me if I got it.

The toggle has 3 positions. Presure one way, presure no ways in the middle, and pressure the other way. exhausts anything no presurized.

The MPA 3P go on the mjv4. When pressure hits the MPA 3 it pushes the button on the MJV4. If that button is pushed it allows air to flow out one port and exhausts the other. If the button is not pushed it lets air flow out the other port and exausts the first.

Using the toggle, switch position 1 extends both rams out. Switch position 2 retracts the left ram and leaves the right one extended. Switch position 3 retracts both rams...
 

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that works out pretty good... So let me break this down barney style and you tell me if I got it.

The toggle has 3 positions. Presure one way, presure no ways in the middle, and pressure the other way. exhausts anything no presurized.

The MPA 3P go on the mjv4. When pressure hits the MPA 3 it pushes the button on the MJV4. If that button is pushed it allows air to flow out one port and exhausts the other. If the button is not pushed it lets air flow out the other port and exausts the first.

Using the toggle, switch position 1 extends both rams out. Switch position 2 retracts the left ram and leaves the right one extended. Switch position 3 retracts both rams...
You got it... except the toggle switch is pressure one way, pressure both ways, and pressure the other way.
 

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so this is what I figure it is going to cost plus 1/4" air line to do a Stak...

I added up 42 1/8 npt ports, so I figured I would be safe and buy an extra package of the fittings...

ordering now
 

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I think the upper drawing is missing the supply pressure to each of the secondary valves. Otherwise looks great. I am most likely going to do this at the same time as I convert to a twin stick and I will post pictures when I do it. Probably will have to make a blingy stainless cover for the tcase shifter hole.

Do you have the flow diagrams for the valves? I am curious what happens when/if you lose system air pressure entirely.
 

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thanks for posting this up patooyee. I was just contemplating what to do for shifters on my d300. I think I'll give this a try

...

Do you have the flow diagrams for the valves? I am curious what happens when/if you lose system air pressure entirely.
I'm pretty sure if you loose all air pressure the rams won't have any force on them, so they'll just stay in whatever position they were in.
 

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Umm.... it appears your interior and the exterior are one in the same. :flipoff2:

I thought my home-brew McMaster-Carr cable shifters were kind of clever, but this trumps mine by a mile. This would certainly clean up my interior a lot.



It'd be a really easy retrofit too, the majority of the bracket work is already in place...

Dammit. I hate it when I want to upgrade things before I even finish building and wheeling the original idea. :cry:
Dude, obviously it's a "cut away" view for clarity. :flipoff2: Vetteboy, I think your cable setup is SWEET!

I imagine that the air system would be great if you need to do some shifting in hairy situations. I haven't graduated to that level yet, once in 4low I stay in 4low unless the trail turns into a dirt road. :D
 

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I am doing this for my 3 speed. since Stak does such a good job posting drawings, as well as clippard, I might just get some brackets done up when I get some other things done. All you need to do is make one bracket that bolts to the tcase to hold the cylinders, the rest is air lines and brass fittings. I guess it would be nice to mount all the parts in a little box and just have a handful or air lines coming out of it...

Hey, where did you get the 5/8 32tpi nuts to hold the switches to a panel. No one including clippard sells them
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I think the upper drawing is missing the supply pressure to each of the secondary valves. Otherwise looks great. I am most likely going to do this at the same time as I convert to a twin stick and I will post pictures when I do it. Probably will have to make a blingy stainless cover for the tcase shifter hole.

Do you have the flow diagrams for the valves? I am curious what happens when/if you lose system air pressure entirely.
Negative. There's only one supply of pressurized air per shift rail that goes into the switch.

J. J.
 

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You got it... except the toggle switch is pressure one way, pressure both ways, and pressure the other way.
I just worked through a logic table and the only way for the system to work is if the toggle valve is no power, power one side, power both sides. I sure wish they would post flow diagrams on clippard.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I am doing this for my 3 speed. since Stak does such a good job posting drawings, as well as clippard, I might just get some brackets done up when I get some other things done. All you need to do is make one bracket that bolts to the tcase to hold the cylinders, the rest is air lines and brass fittings. I guess it would be nice to mount all the parts in a little box and just have a handful or air lines coming out of it...

Hey, where did you get the 5/8 32tpi nuts to hold the switches to a panel. No one including clippard sells them
They were special order from Fastenal.

J. J.
 
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