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The answer depends on if you want more up-travel or more down-travel. For competition crawling, most people run about 5" of uptravel on a 14" shock. We've found that too much more pressure than what it takes to get about 5" of shaft showing really ramps up the spring-rate curve. When switching to the Race Runners, we were able to have more pressure with a better spring rate curve simply because of the larger shaft diameter in the same size shock body.

It's one of those things where you'll have to use a bit of trial and error. Good luck!
 

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I ran my 12" fox's with 6-7 inches of shaft showing. They seem to work best that way for trying to do high speed stuff through the desert. I also liked the added benefit that they wouldn't unload much when attacking steep climbs.
 

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A good question would be about the rig it's going on...higher CG rigs with mediocher suspensions tend to have more issues with airshock pressures than do lower CG with well designed suspensions. It makes a ton of diffeence. If you see the rigs teenycar builds, you'll understand why his rig would prolly run decent at just about any pressure.

Warning about airshocks if you didn't know it already...they don't go fast well for too long as they get hot and stop working like they do when cool.
 

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agian the air shocks do not like med-heavy vehicles. the front of the cruzah was 2100 lbs with 42s beadlocks and a 60. they worked great for 15 mph rubicon runs for about 15 min... they got almost too hot to touch and one blew out the shrader. two other rigs,one built like mine and a light weight buggy. were running them also. they were hot on the heavier one and a lot cooler on the buggy.

back to the point, i set my slammed cruzah up for about 3" up and 15 down.worked AWSOME.
 

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BRAD D said:
I searched but did not find much. Lets say you have 12" 2.0 Fox air shocks, at ride height how much should they sag... Just want to know for when I make upper mounts for them.:p
First of all you may want to sell those Fox's and get some SAW's.

SAW's are better out of the box, unless your talkin 2.5 Fox's???

Good luck,
Easy Rick
 

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Easy Rick said:
First of all you may want to sell those Fox's and get some SAW's.

SAW's are better out of the box, unless your talkin 2.5 Fox's???

Good luck,
Easy Rick
Why do you think SAW's are better?

Or do you just think they have a better factory setting?

I keep hearing people say SAW's are better but havnt gotten a firm reason from anyone who has run mulitple brands.
 

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I prefer the SAW's for the simple reason that the shaft size vs. spring rate curve makes the unloading less of an issue with being able to run lower pressures. We had a noticible difference making the jump from one to the other.

Ford, Chevy, Dodge...everyone has their favorites, mostly because of emotion. We made our decision on performance, not emotion.
 

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TRD said:
Why do you think SAW's are better?

Or do you just think they have a better factory setting?

I keep hearing people say SAW's are better but havnt gotten a firm reason from anyone who has run mulitple brands.
For the obvious reason stated above. And also for some of the more minor reasons such as the misalignment spacers in the ends lock into the ball. This makes repeated removal and instalation much easier than trying to line up 2 loose spacers on the foxs. The 2" hex nut makes disassembly much easier as well. As for the insides they are more tuneable with zero aftermarket parts than foxs. The 2 bleed holes are recessed and tapped with one already plugged and a large unloading improvement can be had by simply swapping shim packs top to bottom so that the rebound is stiffer and compression lighter. And adding as much oil as possible, to lower nitro pressures, and not knock your teeth out on bumpy roads.

I suppose those are my emmotionally charged reasons for stating what I did.:dustin:

Enjoy your TurkeyDay,
Easy Rick.
 

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I run around 150-200 psi in my shocks. Also it is pretty simple to plug one of the bleed holes in the Fox shocks to tame down the unloading issues. You can also get a spring to help you out. I know if you don't feel comfortable doing the work yourself Poly Performance can probably help you out. Airshocks, like coilovers take some tinkering to get the optimal performance for what they are. As mentioned earlier, they work best on light weight rigs for rock crawling.
 

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Thanks for someone finally posting why they like the SAW shocks more.

Rebound should be stiffer than compression from the factory.
 

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TRD said:
Thanks for someone finally posting why they like the SAW shocks more.

Rebound should be stiffer than compression from the factory.

I agree with you but they are not that way from the factory. I am now waiting on some shim packs and spacers from SAW so I can tinker some more.:D I am sure I will get it where I want it. I have also been taking pictures and notes as I tinker so that maybe someday I can start a thread on it to remove some of the airshock mysteries and fear. Its not far off, hopefully.

Easy Rick.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I was going to get them from Polyperformance, and I was going to have them set them up for what they think would be best. Will they heat up too much for street use?

Im still not sold on the air shocks.. Im hoping that poly can help me set them up for a nice ride on the street and work well off road... I'm OK with playing with them alot to get them just right...

Or am I dreaming???
 

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Regardless of what shocks you end up using, you're talking to the right guys by calling PolyPerformance. Even though they don't drive off road very well, they sure do know their suspension stuff better than most. Keep talking to them, make sure they understand everything you plan to use this rig for, then let them work to get you set up correctly the first time. It's a whole lot cheaper that way as you don't have to re-do it ten times over in the long run.
 

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sways also have a better coating
heres a few pics
 

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:d
 

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I haven't had any problems with the heat issue talked about. I can tell you that if you plan to run these on the street or really even off road you are gunna need at least one sway bar to maintain stability. Turning leads to the feeling of instability. Obviously suspension design can help a lot but be forwarned.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
TeenyCAR said:
I haven't had any problems with the heat issue talked about. I can tell you that if you plan to run these on the street or really even off road you are gunna need at least one sway bar to maintain stability. Turning leads to the feeling of instability. Obviously suspension design can help a lot but be forwarned.

Im going to run a sway bar in the front. Plan is to have 3link front and 4 link rear... what can I do in the setup to help stability??
 

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I suppose it all depends what your goal is. If you're just gunna rock crawl it then perhaps a high roll center would be in order, if you wanna go fast through whoops then a low roll center would be better and you'd have to run sway bars. What are you putting air shocks on? If you're car is over 2500 then I'd look at other alternatives to the air shock if you wanna go fast.
 
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