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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so today we finally welded my trunnions into my 100% nodak reciever that I bought.... I got the hammer trigger etc etc in... Put the bolt and carrier in and it requires a fucking hammer to get it to close... Well further investigation has shown me that the mf'ing gas piston is not lining up with the gas block....with a gas tube I can get the gun to go into battery and back out, but it's requiring a fucking rubber mallet.... I also couldn't get the lower handguard in making me think the trunnion is too low in the reciever (the piston is higher then the gas block opening and it's having to bend down to it)

So did I fuck up my goddamn 100% reciever or what?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I found that the "nose" (long pointy part that the piston screws into) of the carrier was binding a smidge on the rear sight base, so I clearanced that just a hair with a grinding stone on my dremel... That allowed a carrier with no piston to slide forward into lockup with no resistance...but the gas piston was still hanging up in/on the gas block... So I decided to attack the piston with my bench grinder and just kind of shave down the top of it... I shaved it down to the point I can work the action by hand, and the bolt can go to lock up if I let it fly from the rear...but I can't just let it go forward easy... So I decided to test fire and see if that would work, the carrier went back ~3/4" and stopped....FTE...I'm not sure if there's still too much friction or if I took too much off the piston and it's not able to deliver enough force/trap enough gas
 

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Mr. Personality
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Dood.. put the grinder down and back away slowly :laughing:

How well did you weld the front trunnion in? You probably realize this at this point, but you should have just tacked it in place and then did a function test to verify the position before fully welding. Take your time and grind/drill out the welds without fawking the trunnion up. Any scars and grinding on the reciever should be able to be welded and sanded down without looking too bad. Time for a new gas piston now too.
 

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Fistful of Boomstick
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stop NOW.
1) you need a new piston, end of story.

is the barrel parallel to the to of the rails? lay a strait edge on the top rails and see if it is in the same plane as the barrel
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nobody every said anything about this tacking bullshit!!!! :flipoff2:

And I was grinding on the Romanian gas piston that is going to get replaced...not my nice US made one... I ground it down to the where it will cycle freely, but I'm pretty sure it's not able to trap enough gas... And we put a shit ton of weld on this bitch... (And we forgot to turn the fucking gas on so they're porous and shitty) By the time I grind/drill this shit back apart it's gonna be UGLY

Fuck AK's....I should have stuck to LegAR's lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just laid a metal yardstick along the top of the receiver, by the end of the barrel the yardstick and BARREL have about 1/4-3/8" gap between them and the yard stick and top of the bore are lined up at the reciever... GAY!!!
 

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Mr. Personality
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Nobody every said anything about this tacking bullshit!!!! :flipoff2:
Lesson #1 - tack weld and test fit before fully welding. More common sense than anything :flipoff2:

And we put a shit ton of weld on this bitch... (And we forgot to turn the fucking gas on so they're porous and shitty) By the time I grind/drill this shit back apart it's gonna be UGLY
So, you didnt immediately notice the gas wasnt on? And just kept going? :laughing:


I just laid a metal yardstick along the top of the receiver, by the end of the barrel the yardstick and BARREL have about 1/4-3/8" gap between them and the yard stick and top of the bore are lined up at the reciever... GAY!!!
It can be fixed, you just need to settle down a bit and take your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Lesson #1 - tack weld and test fit before fully welding. More common sense than anything :flipoff2:
Honestly...I'm pretty basic when it comes to mechanical skills... I can rebuild a toyota t-case and bolt stuff together, but I can't weld or fabricate... And I generally miss a piece/step/whatever and wind up doing most things twice :(


So, you didnt immediately notice the gas wasnt on? And just kept going? :laughing:
We never even put the carrier into the receiver/trunnion until after it was fully welded:shaking:, we DID test fit mags though...



It can be fixed, you just need to settle down a bit and take your time.I'm going to the mall right now...I become a godfather tomorrow and I own no dress clothes... I'll cool off and see what I can do with it later tonight/tomorrow
Whoever put the tag on this thread....thank you...I couldn't agree more LOL
 

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TNToy said:
Well, today I demilled the gun I just built (That's one good way to test your welds) and slapped everything onto a new reciever.

Here's a good tip for anyone who's about to build one of these. When positioning the front trunnion before welding, stick the bolt carrier in and pull the gas tube - You need to check and see if the piston slides directly into the port. There's a little bit of up & down wiggle room at the front trunnion (once you nearly shave the top rails off so that it'll slide into the reciever).

Basically:
1. Weld in the trigger guard assembly
2. Test fit the front trunnion/barrel assembly, and shave enough of the upper rail off so that it'll slide in.
3. Clamp the trunnion into the gun, and test-fit mags until you're happy.
4. Stick the bolt carrier & gas piston in the gun and make sure the head of the gas piston slides directly into the port. If it's too high or too low, and runs into the lip around the edge, you need to adjust the angle that the front trunnion sits at.
5. Now you can go ahead and weld that trunnion in, burn in the rails, rear trunnion, center support, harden and anneal, etc...
Would have helped if you had seen this first, wouldn't it? :flipoff2:
 

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Fistful of Boomstick
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I just laid a metal yardstick along the top of the receiver, by the end of the barrel the yardstick and BARREL have about 1/4-3/8" gap between them and the yard stick and top of the bore are lined up at the reciever... GAY!!!
So ya see the problem :laughing: wow, no fucking pictures or anything needed :flipoff2:

I could tell you how to "cheat" the fix but I am not sure on your sheet metal welding abilities.
 

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Just cut that receiver in half and sell me the AK kit for cheap - it's obviously over your head :p (says the guy who hasn't built his kits yet :laughing: )
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So ya see the problem :laughing: wow, no fucking pictures or anything needed :flipoff2:

I could tell you how to "cheat" the fix but I am not sure on your sheet metal welding abilities.
My welding abilities are nonexistant... I will be grinding and drilling and cussing for most of tomorrow... And then I'll be going to my friend with a tig and begging him to try and fill the ginormous holes in
 

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Mr. Personality
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My welding abilities are nonexistant... I will be grinding and drilling and cussing for most of tomorrow... And then I'll be going to my friend with a tig and begging him to try and fill the ginormous holes in
For the reciever.. use a copper backing strip on the inside. It will prevent burn through and help keep the weld from building up on the inside, saving you grinding/sanding/cleanup time. The weld wont stick to the copper.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For the reciever.. use a copper backing strip on the inside. It will prevent burn through and help keep the weld from building up on the inside, saving you grinding/sanding/cleanup time. The weld wont stick to the copper.
Huh?
 
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