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So pretty much punch out the spot welds and continue the cut along the lower line to the top like this? Off to look into Rotabroach cutters. :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
 

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Discussion Starter #222
So pretty much punch out the spot welds and continue the cut along the lower line to the top like this? Off to look into Rotabroach cutters. :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
Yup, the red line is pretty well exactly where I cut.

I'll weld a nut to the backside of the flange and bolt them back on, probably use something like this McMaster-Carr or this McMaster-Carr
 

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The weld on ones are pretty nice. I am pretty fond of 1/4-20 nutcerts myself, looks like you could just pop them in each hole where the welds are drilled out.
 

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Discussion Starter #225
The weld on ones are pretty nice. I am pretty fond of 1/4-20 nutcerts myself, looks like you could just pop them in each hole where the welds are drilled out.
I could do Rivnuts (Nutcerts). The stupid engineer in me wants the hardware to be the same as the fenders, which for some unfathomable reason are 5/16-24 (fine thread).
 

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I could do Rivnuts (Nutcerts). The stupid engineer in me wants the hardware to be the same as the fenders, which for some unfathomable reason are 5/16-24 (fine thread).
The engineer in you should go-ahead and make the change. Did you stick with the left hand lugnutts on the left side of the truck? Come on make a change for the good :D
 

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Discussion Starter #228
Not sure why having to chase down 2 different size sockets to take off the fenders would be better?

I did find 5/16-24 rivnuts so I guess that's an option.

Axles are already changed over to normal RH lugnuts :)
 

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MotoDave,

Love the build! Nice work!

The seats look really nice. I've posted a "80/800's seat survey" to collect feedback about the different types of seats that are used in the 80 & 800's. If you haven't already, would you mind taking the survey and letting the community know what your experience has been with these particular seats? www.tinyurl.com/scout80800s-SeatSurvey

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #231
Another lame update, whatever. I've been sneaking in time when I can find it, sure doesn't feel like much progress though.

Moved the passenger side motor mount to clear the header.


Made clearance for the headers in the firewall. The pictures make it look like its closer than it really is, I was aiming for 1"+ of air space around the headers. The firewall will get the same sound + thermal coating as the underside of the truck, plus a layer of heat shielding (Aluminum w/ fiberglass backing stuff from DEI).





Checked for clearance at full bump with the new motor - turns out the LS series engines use a larger diameter crank pulley than a TBI 350, but I still have clearance. Also looks like the front driveshaft will clear the oil pan and starter just fine, and the deep truck oil pan clears the front diff too. It hangs down more than I'd prefer but I can swap it out for a lower profile pan later on if it bugs me or becomes an issue.


I finished up the master cylinder mount, and machined a post for the hydroboost clevis to attach to. Trying to preemptively cut out any sources of rattles so I designed it to have a wave spring to preload the parts together.


Where the post gets welded into the brake pedal:


Not entering the pretty welds post just yet :) First time welding stainless to mild steel, turned out OK.


In case anyone's wondering, McMaster P/N 1281N24 is a dead ringer for the brake and clutch pedal bushings.

I machined an adapter for the master cylinder to the hydroboost unit, only need this because the HB unit is clocked up so the accumulator clears the inner fender and steering column.




I have an idea of how I want to build the steering column mounts, which will be the next project. It'll be nice to be able to steer the truck if only to move it around the garage.

I'll be tackling the Engine wiring & plumbing soon, and sending the ECU out to get VATS and emissions removed and get it set up to run stand alone. I have some plans for the engine harness that should be simple and clean, will share that soon hopefully.
 

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Looking good! :beer:

Any reason you chose weld a stud on rather than just a clevis to the pedal arm? Pushrod alignment, pedal ratio, or you just wanted to show off your mad lathe skillz?
 

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Discussion Starter #233
It happened to work out the the hydroboost pushrod was a usable length, so I wanted to keep the stock-ish attachment method (post on the side of the pedal). This also let me space the HB unit a bit further towards the engine to have room for the lines to clear the clutch master cylinder.

And who doesn't justify having fun toys like a lathe by making totally unnecessary complications for themselves :)
 

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Discussion Starter #234
I got the brake pedal mods finished up, rebuilt the main pedal pivot with the above mentioned flanged bushings from McMaster, and got it all bolted into the truck. This let me figure out where the gas pedal wanted to be, and modify the Silverado Drive by Wire pedal to work. I used measurements off my DD Tundra to figure out where the pedal should be in relation to the brake, and it worked out pretty well. The brake and clutch pedals are in the stock location, adn there's still room for a dead pedal space to rest your foot - depending on how I build the cage this may get compromised a bit).





I bent up a bracket that adapts the GM (Suburban?) tilt steering column I have to the stock scout mounts. I think I will reinforce this by tying into the brake pedal mount, but it works for now.





Cut the Borgeson steering shaft to length and got it instsalled, its nice to be able to steer the truck around, even just for moving it around the garage. Also, I may have sat in the seat and made Vroom noises for a while.

 

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Discussion Starter #235
Next up was tackling the engine wiring harness. I went back and forth about sending it out or buying a pre-made harness, but in the end just decided to tackle it myself.

A few nights in the garage after the kiddo went to sleep got me from this



to this



to this



I used split braided loom (LINK), with self-fusing tape (LINK) to tie up the branches (the gray stuff - doesn't stick to the wires).


I'm happy enough with how it came out, and glad I did it myself - I have a much better understanding of what everything is and where it goes on the motor.

I used a lot of info on Brendan's website to sort out the loom, and had him program the ECU to remove VATS & emissions stuff, so I'll leave him a plug here: LT1 Swap

I think the easiest place to mount the ECU, engine fuse block and body fuse blocks will be the tops of the fenders, so I worked on making the inner fenders that I cut off able to be bolted back on :) I tacked weld nuts to the back side of the relevant flanges on the firewall & inner fender, and used button head cap screws to bolt it back in place, since they'll be visible in the cab of the truck.







Got the main parts of the fuel system sorted out. Bosch 044 fuel pump, with a 100 micron pre-filter and a 10 micron Aeromotive filter after the pump.


Adapters for the push-on connectors at the fuel rail to AN fitting ends. I'm going to try using color coding to dummy proof the fuel lines - Blue/Red = Pressure, Black = Return.


I'm just going to run off of 1 of the saddle tanks for now, with eventual plans to use the saddle tanks as reserve fuel capacity and run off a main tank between the frame rails.

I'm pushing to fire the motor up before the end of the year, so I'll be working on building the engine fuse block next up.
 

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Discussion Starter #236 (Edited)
Fuel tank questions for the new year ...

I want to get the truck running off of one of the saddle tanks for now, just to get moving. Eventually I want to find/build a tank behind the back axle that holds around 20 gallons, and use one/both or the saddle tanks as extra capacity for long trips, but that can come later.

The drivers saddle tank was already cleaned up and lined (por15 or similar, I'm assuming). I've been reading on the scout forums and my tank seems to be somewhat oddball, in that it doesn't have any pickup coming out of the top of the tank. The only openings are for the filler neck, fuel level sensor, and the drain port on the bottom of the tank.

Options as I see them are:

Pull off the bottom of the tank - easiest option, but worries me that I'll be putting too much junk through the pump.

Weld a bung in the top of the tank where the normal pickup location is and make a pickup tube - I think this would collect less junk but has more 'head' for the pump to overcome.

Weld a pickup bung in the side of the tank - less head to overcome, better than a bottom of the tank pickup, but more chance for leaks (I guess).

Suck it up and build the rear tank now - this means less re-doing stuff later, but at the pace I get shit done now it'll be months before I get it built.

At this point I'm leaning towards the easiest option of using the drain port on the bottom, and making a little extension to the pickup so that it draws a half inch or so above the bottom of the tank. I still need to figure out how to seal to that drian plug hole, its 1/2-20 straight thread (WTF International, can't you do anything the normal way?)

Any suggestions, thoughts, etc? What are you all doing who run the stock saddle tanks still?
 

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Any suggestions, thoughts, etc?
I wouldn't weld on a coated tank. A quick, easy solution would be to use an AN bulkhead fitting with teflon washers in the top (even in the fuel level pick up if you can). Connect an AN to tube adapter with a short piece of AL or Stainless tube for the down-tube inside. I've done this before and it works fine.

Just remember that if you can't mount the set-up to the fuel level flange, you need to put it in an area that you can access the fittings in the tank from either the fuel level flange hole or the fill tube. Make sense?

this post shows the top mount for my current fuel tank set up which uses the method described above: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/20969881-post45.html
 

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Discussion Starter #240 (Edited)
I wouldn't weld on a coated tank. A quick, easy solution would be to use an AN bulkhead fitting with teflon washers in the top (even in the fuel level pick up if you can). Connect an AN to tube adapter with a short piece of AL or Stainless tube for the down-tube inside. I've done this before and it works fine.

Just remember that if you can't mount the set-up to the fuel level flange, you need to put it in an area that you can access the fittings in the tank from either the fuel level flange hole or the fill tube. Make sense?

this post shows the top mount for my current fuel tank set up which uses the method described above: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/20969881-post45.html
Cool, I hadn't thought of bulkhead fittings. What's the real advantage though vs drawing off the bottom of the tank, assuming I do it in a way that puts the pickup say 3/4" off the bottom? I like the idea of not drawing 18-20" of head on the pump all the time ...

do it once and be done. A blazer tank fits, so does a scout II tank. Put an intank pump in it.
I will buy/make a centered rear tank with an in-tank pump eventually, but I want to keep one/both saddle tanks as reserve capacity either way - shooting for 20+ gallons in the main tank,. with an extra 9-10 for long trips. So the work in making the saddle tank usable isn't really wasted in the long run. And I have it, and I want to hear the damn engine run sooner than later.

Any suggestion on what year Blazer to look at? Teh Googles says that K5 tanks are 28.75 x 28.125 x 10.75, I measured the space between the back of the axle and rear bumper crossmember to be 16". Is the tank up above the axle? I need to set the rear axle at full bump and see how much height I have to work with. Looks like there is some, but I don't think there's 10"

 
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