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Those AR shrouds are sexy...the shock clamps look good, too.

So weird thing about that, the body side of the mid body mounts were not attached to the tub, nor can I tell that they ever were. I'd planned to weld them on unless there's a good reason not to.

I think one of the frame side mounts is already collapsed, so good idea to box them in.
My mid-body mount were not attached to the body very well either, one was completely detached and the other was barely held on with half a spot weld. Definitely needs to be securely attached to the body.
 

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I have terrible luck with rust oleum finishes. Poor coverage and the stuff takes forever to dry. The home improvement stores only carry rust oleum products now.
I prefer Krylon products and Ace Hardware still carrys them.
Nice progress, will you be able to finish weld all your brackets without moving the frame?
 

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Discussion Starter #163 (Edited)
I've had good experience with their industrial products, its better than what you find at Home Depot. I'll probably get it through Grainger since there's one 1/2 mile from my work.

9 less holes in the floor:
 

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I have been using thier roll bar and chassis lately, a bit more money but I am very impressed with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #165
Well, bit of a break in the action while we replaced all of the flooring in our house, but I'm back to work now.

I finally got a solid day in the garage yesterday, it was one of those where nothing really looks different at the end of the day but my arms and back are telling me work got done :)

After lots of practicing I finally burned in all of the suspension brackets that will be inaccessible once the body is back down on the frame. Won't be winning accolades in the 'pretty welds' thread but I did some bend testing on practice pieces and they're plenty strong. And if anyone wants to poke at my welds you're welcome to come do it yourself!

Front shock tower & back side of motor mount


Another view


Rear shock mounts


Rear spring hanger - i wish this had come out a bit nicer, but this is really pushing my vertical & overhead welding skill level :)


Also got the rest of the holes filled in in the back of the tub and got about 1/2 of the underside cleaned up for paint. Too tired to care about taking a picture at that point, but its not exciting anyways. I'll keep plugging away at paint prep and hope to shoot the underside soon, then I'll drop the body back on the frame and have a roller again.
 

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I finally got a solid day in the garage yesterday, it was one of those where nothing really looks different at the end of the day but my arms and back are telling me work got done :)
Getting old sucks :flipoff2:
Shock mounts look good. It takes practice to get better at out of position welds. I've seen worse :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #168 (Edited)
Getting old sucks :flipoff2:
Shock mounts look good. It takes practice to get better at out of position welds. I've seen worse :flipoff2:
Thanks. I've said that you can pretty well tell when I built certain parts on the truck by the welding, its been a learning process for sure.

Hey, who shot holes in the bottom of my truck!


That one looks about 9mm, there have got to be a half dozen .22 sized holes. All in the floor, my work today is going to be patching all of them :)

edit: No, that jack isn't holding up the body, just acting as a stabilizer.
 

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Field expedient drain holes...or very poor weapons handling.

I had to drill some drain holes in my floor, I had POR15 and Al's Liner which sealed it up nice and tight...bikini top + rain=driving around in ankle deep water. I went home and drilled some drain holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #170
Yup that's what I assumed too. I'll add some sort of floor drain back in for the same reasons, maybe the jeep wrangler obround type since I can easily get plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #171 (Edited)
The last few weekends have been spent getting the floors cleaned up, holes welded and generally prepped as well as I can for paint. Lots of time with these, as well as some air tools. You can never have too many grinders.


You can see the 'before' condition above, here's the after (with more bullet holes):


I made up a little tool to make welding up holes easier, its a switchable magnet that holds a 1/4" thick piece of copper against the panel. Worked out really well, it is strong enough I could stick it under the bed and do my welding from above. I'm doing all of this solo so this worked way easier than one of those welding spoons you have to hold.


Same process under the bed, then a few coats of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator


And the end result of all this work, 2 coats of Lizardskin Sound Control sprayed under the bed.


I used a generic undercoating (schutz) gun, my buddy gave it to me after he sprayed bedliner with it. Took a little adjusting to get the air pressure and nozzle settings right but it worked out pretty well. The Lizardskin stuff is nice to work with, cleans up with water and doesn't really have a smell to it. Painting under the truck sucks, I was glad I bought a tyvek bunny suit with a hood to keep the spatter mostly off of me.

I'll re-mask and spray the floorboards this week, then the body goes back on the frame this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #172 (Edited)
Unpaid product endorsement: For what its worth, that Metabo grinder (LINK) in the middle is worth every penny I paid for it. Its got a lot less vibration when running than the Dewalt or Fein grinders, and has some sort of anti-stall mechanism that really helped when using the twisted wire brush (this type: Knotted Wire End Brushes). The other 2 grinders would put my hands to sleep in 5-10 minutes, and I spent probably 5-6 hours holding a grinder over my head cleaning up the floors so far.

It also has a pretty trick nut that holds normal flap wheels and cuttoffs on, that you just hand tighten down instead of having to find the stupid wrench that's never where you expect it.
 

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That magnet mounted copper backer is pretty slick :grinpimp:

instead of having to find the stupid wrench that's never where you expect it.
Mine are ziptied to the grinder cord, never need to look more than 3 ft to find it.
 

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You wouldn't by chance want to share that base chassis model would you? :D
 

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Shoot me a PM and let me know what you're doing, I'm not opposed to sharing some data depending on what you're wanting to use it for.
I'm in the earlier process of a similar project with a 66. I threw together a rough model of the chassis with body still on, but wasn't going to be able to really confirm hard points until I get the tub cut off.

 

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Discussion Starter #178 (Edited)
I'm in the earlier process of a similar project with a 66. I threw together a rough model of the chassis with body still on, but wasn't going to be able to really confirm hard points until I get the tub cut off.
I'll send you a PM - not sure how much help my chassis model will be, the frame is relatively accurate but doesn't include any body mounts (not changing them) and doesn't include any stock suspensions points (not using any of them).

I struggled to find a consistent reference point to measure to for setting up the new suspension brackets. On my truck the body mounts are not consistent side to side, so I wound up making a 'datum' bar that locates on 2 holes in the bottom of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #179
Well time for another long overdue update, this time I have a good excuse though :)



My wife and I had out first child, a healthy baby boy named Ethan. I took a month off of work, and I've managed to sneak some garage time in when the wife and baby are napping throughout the day.

I finished up work on the floors with the same lizardskin coating under the passenger compartment floor boards, as well as painting the frame where I am finished welding. The body is set back down on the frame and the truck is back to being a roller.


To finish off the floors I needed to fill in this gap I cut out to clear the transfer case.


Played with cardboard until I had a shape that I was happy with, then transferred the design to metal and used my buddy's brake at his house to make the bends.




First piece tacked in




The second (more complicated) piece didn't work out exactly like I planned, I didn't account for the metal shrinkage at the bend quite right, so I wounp up modifying it a bit but I'm still happy with how it came out. I still need to finish weld this in and grind it down smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #180 (Edited)
Hmm, something changed here, its making me split up my posts to only have 10 images?

Next I cleaned up the transmission tunnel cover, opened up the shifter hole to fit the NV4500 shifter tower, and welded up the stock transfer case shifter hole. The transmission shifter is roughly in the same place as the stock one, but the t-case shifters will be quite a bit further back. I am still working out exact placement and will have to cut a new hole once I get that sorted out.



No more transfer case shifter hole. You can see i used a big piece of copper as a backer, really makes work like this pretty easy. I tig welded up the patch panel, makes for less weld to grind down after the fact.





Found a nice big Hurst shifter boot that covers the transmission shift tower, and the rest of the transmission and t-case fit nicely under the cover so I didn't have to modify it too much more.


To finalize t-case shifter location I wanted the seats to at least be mocked up into place. The seats I'm using are from a TJ Rubicon unlimited, and have a nice fold forward feature that should make getting into the back seat easier, so I wanted to keep the bases intact. This means cutting out the stock seat bases, and making some quickie mock up bases to let me play with height and position.




I'm going to cut out the bulkhead behind the seats, but I think with the seat flipped forward access won't be too bad, and I also can use the area behind/under the seat for storage.


Next steps - build some transfer case shifters & finish the floor mods, then pull the drivetrain for finish welding of more brackets on the frame, some firewall modification needed to clear the exhaust manifold, and pull the axles to finish weld the suspension brackets and re-gear. Then I'll actually be dropping the drivetrain back in for the (maybe) last time, and start plumbing and wiring.
 
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